Radiator suggestions

4Ruinned

4Ruinned

New member
Hello 4runnerers.

Now that it's too cold the radiator in my 4runner started leaking antifreeze. I've been researching and would like to get an all aluminum radiator for a V6 since, from what I undestand, it fits.

I've seen a few options on line but I'm not sure what to buy. So, any recomendations would be greatly appreciated.

Oh, yeah. It's an 85 4runner with a 22RE in it
Thanks.
 
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I don't know if there is a difference between 22RE and 3Slow radiator, but I'd go with a three row radiator. I'm not a big fan of the new aluminum radiators with the plastic caps. I prefer a brass/copper, but that's just me.
 
Yes, I agree with you.

The radiator in my truck does not look too old but it's already leaking, it is an aluminum radiator with plastic tanks. I'd like to try an all aluminum radiator since aluminum dissipates heat better...or so they say. But, I don't know which one to buy.
 
33p5z4g.jpg

I went with a factory unit(brass/copper) for our 1990 V6, and have been very pleased. Toyota really improved the core over the original. It is pricey, but worth it. It fit properly and all the air duct work buttoned right up properly (unlike Nissens). Best of luck with it.
regards
 
77'911 said:
I went with a factory unit(brass/copper) for our 1990 V6, and have been very pleased. Toyota really improved the core over the original. It is pricey, but worth it. It fit properly and all the air duct work buttoned right up properly (unlike Nissens). Best of luck with it.
regards
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Amen! OEM for critical things - that could make or break the engine.
 
OEM will always be your "best" bet, but aluminum can also be a good replacement, but copper has better heat dissipating properties. With a little scientific application of brute force, you can accomplish anything
 
I can confirm the v6 radiator fits, and bolts in just fine.

I put one in mine years ago. I just went with one from the local rad shop. its been ok. but one of the upper mounts came loose fairly quickly.
I still haven't fixed it tho.

the original one was the same way, except I think they were all loose.
 
An OEM radiator is not always the best bet, IMHO. The original failed because of metal fatigue, after 7 years. An after market, American made, three row is still going after 13 years and counting.

If you can find an all aluminium radiator, like a Koyo. I'm all for that. Just not the cheap ones with the plastic tanks.
 
CodeButcher said:
An OEM radiator is not always the best bet, IMHO. The original failed because of metal fatigue, after 7 years. An after market, American made, three row is still going after 13 years and counting.

If you can find an all aluminium radiator, like a Koyo. I'm all for that. Just not the cheap ones with the plastic tanks.
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Ours lasted over twenty years, and never even came close to overheating once. If you have fatigue issues after 7 years, your drive line mounts are probably shot and stressing the rad through the hoses. This a common issue with BMW. The upper tanks can fail on these tanks, but ours only did that after 20 years. We could have had it repaired at a shop for $150. Since it is driven by my elderly father, I was not going to chance anything, it warranted new. A bad rad cap can also kill the rad quite quickly if it does not release the pressure at certain points. I'm pretty fastidious about keeping Japan made caps on ours.
Agreed, an American made alu unit will be head and tails better then the China made stuff that is being marketed now.
regards
 
I used a V6 radiator from NAPA. I've been very pleased with it. The price was good, and I've put 20k miles on it since install in June with no leaks.
 
Thanks for the comments guys.

Yeah, I went to Autozone and ask if they sell all aluminum radiadors, they laughed and said all are made of aluminum then they figured out what I was talking about and said they do not sell them.

I called the dealership and quoted me $580 for one but said there was none in stock, in their warehouse or in the USA. I'm sure there are but that's a bit more than I can afford right now.

I checked Napa out too but they only have aluminum/plastic ones.

i was eyeing one from ebay, a 2 row all aluminum one for ~$100 shipped with warranty, chinese I'm sure. I'll check out some local radiator shops this weekend, if they don't have anything I think I'll be the guinea pig for one of these.
 
At the end of the day, youre not driving a formula one car, youd be fine with any sort of rad, as long as it not made of paper maché
:ak472: :artist2: lol
 
I ruined an engine after a replacement radiator failed (cooked the headgasket) but would like to pass this on...

If you get a decent replacement radiator (with a lifetime warranty) just plan on swapping it out in several years when you do the coolant. That way you may have the best value for your money and a new radiator before the old one has a chance to leave you sitting by the side of the road. If the OEM failed after x years replace the aftermarket at x-1 and just make it a part of your scheduled maintenance.

I knew my replacement radiator would probably go in the next two years when I was doing a maintenance cycle - timing belt, water pump and coolant, but since it wasn't dripping yet I left it in the car. A little over a year later it failed at the worst possible time and by the time I got it off the road the damage was done. I wish I had gone with my instinct and just swapped rads when I had everything apart doing the regular maintenance. Even if I hadn't had a warranty, a basic rad is under a couple hundred bucks and would have saved me thousands.

Food for thought!
 
77'911 said:
Ours lasted over twenty years, and never even came close to overheating once. If you have fatigue issues after 7 years, your drive line mounts are probably shot and stressing the rad through the hoses. This a common issue with BMW. The upper tanks can fail on these tanks, but ours only did that after 20 years. We could have had it repaired at a shop for $150. Since it is driven by my elderly father, I was not going to chance anything, it warranted new. A bad rad cap can also kill the rad quite quickly if it does not release the pressure at certain points. I'm pretty fastidious about keeping Japan made caps on ours.
Agreed, an American made alu unit will be head and tails better then the China made stuff that is being marketed now.
regards
Click to expand...

The first time I had to replace my radiator, I took it an old guy who fixes mostly old radiators. He told I'd be back because the cracks he fixed are just the start. He told me that the Japanese made radiators, are made with a thinner guage brass than the American made ones. When they get stamp pressed the brass gets thinner, kinda like stretching a plastic t-shirt grocery bag. The fatigue usually happens at the bends. After a couple of months, as the old guy said, other cracks started to leak. I finally bought a new, three row Modine from NAPA, for about $200, which I should have done the first time. Modine radiators are made locally, in SO Cal, It's been more than ten years and I have not shopped for a new one so I can say for sure if they still make them that way.

Though it's not always the radiator that causes over-heating, mostly it's a bad thermostat, water pump, or some other slow leak.
 
I went with an aluminum radiator as a replacement. Changed all the radiator hoses while I had the old one out. Ran it cross country to Moab and back home to West Virginia and didn't have a problem.

I would have gone OEM copper if it was in my budget. My plans are to keep the radiator fluid clean, and added some of the super cool while I was at it.

So far (knock wood), so good. Didn't have any over-heating problems. Even with the desert temperatures around 111 degrees, and running the ac full time.

:usa2:
 
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