Raise rear shock mounts

AssBurns

AssBurns

New member
I plan on doing the LC80 front coils on my rear and most likely running LC80 rear shocks too. I have heard that at full flex your coils could pop out when shocks are completely extended with longer shocks. Also if you run longer shocks you will lose a little bit of up travel. Instead of limiting straps I was thinking maybe I could raise the upper shock mounts about an 1" or so to limit the down travel and keep the up travel. Would this work? Has anyone done this before? I plan on doing 33" tires and a 1" BL to keep from running
 
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Does anyone have pictures? Has anyone made new shock mounts that are a little higher than stock? I have searched this topic and haven't found anything. Any links?
 
Search for outboard shocks. I recall a few 3rd gen guys doing it, looking at other vehicles the procedure should basically the same too.
 
I plan on getting my new suspension within the next month and I'm not too sure what to do. I have LC80 8wraps and plan on getting the Toytec/Eibach front coils with Tundra 5100's. The question with the rear is how to get as much articulation as possible without getting taller coils than the LC80's. I was thinking longer shocks and raising the mount points higher to get more up travel and more down travel. If I do this I would go outboard shock towers. Is there any reason this idea would not work or is a bad idea? For anyone that has ran outboard shocks how did it help with articulation and is it worth the work?
 
The Google is weak with this one..


Here are mine, for use with eye mount shocks:
125_1307.jpg~original



Also, a set made by [MENTION=63487]A.Wilson013[/MENTION]
A.Wilson013 said:
No, sir. I had some mounts fabbed up and had them welded outside of the frame. Now my shocks are like this... | | instead of like this... / \.
e7u9anyr.jpg~original
Click to expand...
 
4everun22 said:
I love this. What shocks did you use? How's it working so far?
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Well, they were on my last 4runner but they worked brilliantly. The shocks were Bilstein 5150 which are discontinued.


If you look at this chart, the stock shocks are the 6.63in travel shocks. The 8.13 or 8.6in travel shocks are good for 3" of lift.

The goal of moving the shock mounts is to keep the keep the collapsed length the same so that it does not impact your total rebound stroke (aka up-travel).If the 8.6in shock has a 2 inch longer compressed length, then you want to move the shock mount 2" higher than the stock one is.

Some people decide to keep it lower however to gain more down-travel and simply use extended bump stops to limit the up-travel, myself included.
5125_chart_2.jpg
 
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Damn! That set up looks kick ass. I plan on doing something similar to that myself I was thinking about running about 9 inches of travel 5125 shocks. And moving the shock mounts up and maybe even raising the bump stops a little bit higher so I get a lot more up travel and still getting longer down travel. How come you extended your bump stops instead of raising your shock mounts higher up?
my goal is to get as much articulation as possible with the stock control arms for now. Eventually I'd love to do a solid axle swap with four link front and rear but I don't have money or time for that at the moment. I know on these trucks all the articulation is in the rear so I'm trying to get the most travel I can out of it
 
Also has anyone ever tried cutting the last section of the cone bump stops off to get your bump stops a little bit Higher up. I noticed that I hit the cone bump stops about it inch or so before I hit the regular bump stops. Would that cause any problems?
 
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AssBurns said:
...maybe even raising the bump stops a little bit higher so I get a lot more up travel and still getting longer down travel. How come you extended your bump stops instead of raising your shock mounts higher up?
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Nobody raises the bump stops because with 285s you are already rubbing on the body everywhere. More bump stop clearance isn't going to help you get more up-travel. Also the driveshaft can rub on the gas tank if you go too high up when flexing. Also, just as you normally want to raise your ground clearance, you don't want to bring the minimum clearance at full compression down if you can avoid it.

AssBurns said:
Also has anyone ever tried cutting the last section of the cone bump stops off to get your bump stops a little bit Higher up. I noticed that I hit the cone bump stops about it inch or so before I hit the regular bump stops. Would that cause any problems?
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First, you need to understand the primary reason bump stops exist. To protect the shocks from bottoming out with large force inputs.

Second, you need to understand how bump stops work. Just because the bump stop is touching your axle after 1 inch, does not mean it is stopping your wheel travel. Bump stops usually have a few inches of compression, and it isnt until that point that they stop.
Removing part of the bump stop will prevent them from being able to absorb loads which means your shocks will get toasted after a few hard hits.
 
Well the plan would to raise the upper shock mounts and raise the bumps possibly and still have the bump stops stop before the shock is fully compressed. Also I want as much down travel as possible but not so much that the coils could pop out.
Second question is about the cone bump stops. I would trim those so I can get another inch before I hit the regular bumps. The plan is to have longer shocks therefore more travel but keep the shocks from bottoming out by raising the upper mounts and also keeping the coils from popping out under full droop.
I was able to trim enough to clear the 285's without any rubbing issues in the rear. And I didn't have to trim that much. The only worry would be the driveshaft rub if I get anymore up travel. What I'm trying to figure out is how much more up travel I can go without and issues. I understand the reasoning for bump stops and I'm not trying to eliminate them. I'm just going for as much travel as possible without lifting the rear end stupid high because the front can only go up about 3" and I don't want high COG or that stink bug look
 
By all means try it. I'm not saying it can't be done, just that there are many things to think about. Another thing to watch for is clearance between the axle/control arm mounts and everything above it.

If you can successfully position the shock height and bump stops, I could see an extra inch or so gained in wheel travel.
 
Maybe next weekend I'll pull the coils and bump stops to see where everything lines up. Another issue with outboard shocks is clearance between the frame and tire. I don't want spacers so I may try to notch the frame out a little and brace/gusset everything. Sounds like a lot of work for only an inch or two of up travel each way but with the limited travel with IFS suspension I'm trying to get the most out of the rear
 
if you have lc coils i dont think they will be falling out, they are very long, infact they are difficult to put in with the shocks disconnected.
 
D Farms said:
if you have lc coils i dont think they will be falling out, they are very long, infact they are difficult to put in with the shocks disconnected.
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That's true, putting in the 8 wraps was a bear, even completely drooped out with no sway bar, it took 2 of us to pry and pull them onto the coil buckets.
 
D Farms said:
if you have lc coils i dont think they will be falling out, they are very long, infact they are difficult to put in with the shocks disconnected.
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Well that is good to hear. I still would like to get longer travel shocks and would need to raise my shock mounts but I probably won't need to raise my bumps to get the most amount of possible travel. Other than coils popping out is there any other issues that would happen with more down travel? I would like to have the best of both worlds by not having too high COG but having lots of down travel and at least stock up travel
 
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