Raise rear shock mounts

Thanks! I used some LC shocks for a couple weeks and I was able to get about another inch each direction with my new setup. I can't remember the part number but they are the Bilstein 7100 12" travel short body w/ remote resi. If you would like to check the catalog
 
Right on. Thanks. I've been looking through the Bilstein catalog and with as many shocks as they have options are still pretty limited.
I've found that the shocks that are geared for the FJ80s work well. Even when I was lightly modified, compared to now, the valving for 4runners was too soft. Nowdays I've gotten fat with all the extra steel, tools, and gear. Last scale I rolled on to was at 5240lbs (half tank of gas) I carry so much extra weight on a regular basis that the stock weight on an 80 actually closer to my weight now.

Any plans to mod again or are you planning to enjoy the current setup for a while?
 
I just plan on doing bumpers and skids and some little things here and there. Nothing too crazy. My original plan was to do a SAS but I realized thy I wouldn't want to beat up this 4Runner. Hopefully in the next year or so I can start building the axles and gathering parts for my next vehicle. I'd like to build either a 1st gen runner or 2nd gen pickup into a 4 seater truggy on 1 tons and at least 40" tires but I gotta pay for a wedding first.
 
For anyone that wants to know about the shock info

They are the Bilstein 7100's 12" travel short body with remote reservoir. Valving is 255/70
Part # AK7112SBB
 
I know this is some what of an old thread but for those of you running setups like this that still use the factory spring location and not full coil overs what springs are you using. I don't do any type of crawling with my 3rd gen mostly fast desert type of offroading and have been torn on what Springs/ rates to run. I don't carry much gear so managing additional weight isn't an issue, just soaking up bumps at speed. Any advice would be great.
 
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I’m running some LC80 8 wraps. From what I read, they are about 180lb spring rate. Which might be really nice for what you are looking for. The Superflex coils are like 220lb if I remember correctly, but they are dual rate which could also be nice. If you don’t carry a lot of weight I would try to stick with a lighter, taller coil. If I could order custom coils, I would run taller softer coils, because my 8 wraps are loose at full droop causing zero preload on the suspension at full droop. I’d like to have more preload at full droop. If I go taller coils, I would have higher ride height, which I also don’t like. I hope that helps.


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I ran Toytec superflex. They were great "WITHOUT WEIGHT." They don't hold weight for jack. And Toytec lied to me about one coil being longer , aka eliminating driver side lean. Long story short. Running OME861 in back. Just added 1 OME10mm and 1 OME5mm spacer per side to have extra rake. Yes these coils give rake. But even with savage off road rear tire carrier, plus storage box plus cooler plus passengers. I wanted RAKE.
 
So based on these threads, the Superflex coils are 240lb coils, while 861’s are 220lb coils. Not sure what the free height is of the Superflex’s are. I’m assuming les than the 861’s since they give a lower ride height.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/toytec-lifts/93584-***new-toytec-superflex-rear-coils***.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/215251-toytec-superflex-rear-spring-info-thread.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ome-lifts-discussion-for-the-faq.93325/

Again, if you are not carrying heavy loads, and your looking for a ‘go-fast’ setup, I’d say taller and softer would be the best bet. Let your shocks control the wheels.


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Almost done with the upper mounts. The frame is plated along the inside and boxed in the area that has been notched with 3/16 plate. Waiting for some paint to dry so I can weld them up to the frame and add some frame plates on the outside of the frame. Then I can start at the lower mounts first thing in the morning

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Nice welds, are you creating a weak point in the frame there? I see the plates for added strength but it looks like an area that can crack in the future. No engineer here.
 
Nice welds, are you creating a weak point in the frame there? I see the plates for added strength but it looks like an area that can crack in the future. No engineer here.



Yeah I’m no engineer either, but I think it’ll hold up fine. So far no issues.
 
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Thank you guys for confirming what was thinking with taller and soft. Air bumps are on the build list as well. Justittle confusing since there are so many posts about sagging and staying away from certain springs. Although I know a majority on here add a lot of weight and typically crawl/ overland.
 
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