Ran the MC dry, need to replace rear hard lines

[mcaz5]

I went out for a shakedown run testing out the rear springs and shocks but ran into a bigger issue. The day before, I changed out the rear shoes and had a problem getting the hard line to screw back into the wheel cylinder. I stupidly forced it and assumed it was fine after I pushed on the brakes a few times and no fluid came out. Well today on the shakedown I had to press the brakes hard a few times and I see the e-brake light come on . I get out and check the Master cylinder and see the fluid level is below the MIN line. So I basically work my way back down the hill and a few hills and ledges after that using only the e-brake.

So basically I ran the MC pretty dry, if not completely dry. I know where the leak happened and why it happened. I just need to replace the rear hard line that screws into the wheel cylinder correct? And then bleed the MC? Where can I find a new hard line? Thanks!

Oh and here's a pic to lighten the mood

Untitled by MikhailCaz, on Flickr

 

[Chingpo05]

I went out for a shakedown run testing out the rear springs and shocks but ran into a bigger issue. The day before, I changed out the rear shoes and had a problem getting the hard line to screw back into the wheel cylinder. I stupidly forced it and assumed it was fine after I pushed on the brakes a few times and no fluid came out. Well today on the shakedown I had to press the brakes hard a few times and I see the e-brake light come on . I get out and check the Master cylinder and see the fluid level is below the MIN line. So I basically work my way back down the hill and a few hills and ledges after that using only the e-brake.

So basically I ran the MC pretty dry, if not completely dry. I know where the leak happened and why it happened. I just need to replace the rear hard line that screws into the wheel cylinder correct? And then bleed the MC? Where can I find a new hard line?


Junkyard or if you want it new you can buy it at autozone with the metric head. Make sure you buy 3/16" tube with concave flare. The tube is easily bendable with your hands as long as you dont kink it you will be fine

 

[mcaz5]

Could I just replace the actual screw? That's the part that stripped. Any idea where I would buy that?

 

[Mike&Ike]

Yes you can cut the line install a new screw and re flare the line. An auto parts store should have these just take the line off and bring it there. They should be able to re flare it if you do not have a flaring tool.

 

[Dous]

You can also rent a flaring tool, although most of the rentals absolutely suck

The flare nut is an M10

 

[woodro]

Got new hard lines from the local Toyota dealership , 15 bucks apiece .

 

[mcaz5]

Yes you can cut the line install a new screw and re flare the line. An auto parts store should have these just take the line off and bring it there. They should be able to re flare it if you do not have a flaring tool.

Really? That's sounds like a good option. This will probably be the first thing I try considering it's only the screw that's messed up.

 

[mcaz5]

So I go through the trouble of having buying a straight pre flared brake line and bending it. Turns out the bolt that came on it is like 2 threads too short. And everything works great except it is now slightly leaking at the brake fitting. F*ck me!

Edit: I'm an even bigger DA than I first thought. Through all the confusing and what not it seems I forgot to tighten the bleeder screw down all the way. I'm an idiot.