Random shut off / having to wait to crank back up

tanner361

New member
The 4Runner is my wife's and she drives it 80% of the time and over the last week it has turned off on her twice just like a loss of power and it backfired once or twice each time it turned off.... So I replaced the alternator as it was going bad and also had the battery tested(it tested good)...Now its still doing it everytime she drives it for a while....I disconnected the fuel filter line that runs to the motor and gas came flowing out while the Rig was parked and off(no power to pump....My Dad said if its not the fuel pump (which is working) then I need to replace the IGnition Module....Because at times when I turn it on it misses, sputters and now sometimes wont turn on at all.... If anyone has any information on this topic Please help me out ASAP!!!!
 
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Easy Tanner361.

Any CEL being thrown?

When was the last tune up performed on it (plugs, wires, etc.)?

It may just be a case of bad gas. Try running some fuel injection cleaner through it.

Also try and see if you can smell gas via the tailpipe. My uncle had a car run very rich due to a non working fuel pressure regulator. Pull off the vacuum line off the regulator and see if gas comes out and/or you smell it.

If the Igniter (ICM for the 4runner) is bad, a CEL would be thrown.

We need more info.
 
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Last time I had this happen to me it was out of coolant and overheating. The temp gauge never showed hot though. I know because I was watching it like a hawk. Had just bought the truck after it had been rolled over. I knew the radiator leaked but couldn't tell how bad so I was driving it to my FIL's house to work on it there. (Not very far and thought I could make it) Even brought 5 gallons of water with me just in case. Long story short, check the coolant level.
 
Ok well Now it isn't shutting off since I replaced the alternator but today I drove to the next town over which was a 10 mile drive. I got to the tire shop put the tires on and when I went to start the truck it was just turning over....I had to wait about 10 minutes and finally it turned on....Also I have checked the Fuel filter and it is not clogged. Today I went to the junkyard and bought an igniter module. Swapped it and no difference. It still took time for it to turn on....I guess Next is to move on to buying new ignition coils....And little Ceasar I replaced spark plugs and wires about a yr ago....
 
Also when it does turn on its like puh puh puhruhruhruruh(puttering) then it turns on and runs fine...and it will back fire.......Also there are no CEL, but before I replaced the alternator it was throwing a CEL for the last O2 sensor but it hasn't come back on since I reconnected the battery.
 
Seems like you could have some electrical demons. Could possibly a loose ground somewhere to the ECU. Does it have an aftermarket alarm? If so, I would start there.
 
No Sir Dan no aftermarket alarm....just a switch on the driver side kick panel to disable/enable the factory alarm but that has been there for 5 yrs when I bought the truck from my FIL...because my sis in law lost the clicker and everytime you would disconnect and reconnect the truck the alarm would kick on when opening the doors. It hasn't been a problem (ever)
 
No Sir Dan no aftermarket alarm....just a switch on the driver side kick panel to disable/enable the factory alarm but that has been there for 5 yrs when I bought the truck from my FIL...because my sis in law lost the clicker and everytime you would disconnect and reconnect the truck the alarm would kick on when opening the doors. It hasn't been a problem (ever)

What year is your 4runner? Something is making your truck shut off and back fire. If its not that then you could have a defective cam or crank position senor. Just out of curiosity, would you be able to still start the truck if if the switch that FIL put in was turned off? I havent had a chance to look at my 99 EWD to see how the wiring for the alarm is configured?
 
Its a 96 V6 (3.4) I went to look at it right now and yea the switch doesnt make a difference.....Also I heard a ticking noise and there was a sensor(?) making a ticking noise and I'm going to post the pick
 
The ticking sensor

Its the sensor on the right that runs a vaccum line to the back of throttle body
 

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I circled it

This is the one.....:gun6:
 

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At this point I would suggest that you get an OBDII reader. The next time it happens, check for a code before you turn your car to the off position. Its possible that there is a code and it might clear after the car was turned of and then restarted. There is also a possibility that you have a bad sensor but the ECU doesnt know its bad, hence the CEL not illuminating. It has been known to happen with the TPS sensor. Not saying thats your problem, but just giving an example. You could have a problem with the MAF, Cam, or crank position sensor. I would also carry around some starter fluid. The next time it doesnt decide to start, spray some into the intake. This may help you determine if there is a spark and if fuel isnt being injected. It wont tell you exactly what the problem is but give you an idea of where to start troubleshooting.
 
Thats a good idea I didn't think about the starter fluid....What I am going to do today is replace the fuel filter even though I already checked it. Maybe It is partially clogged and when trying to start the truck it is clogging up just enough to cause me to have to crank several times until it starts up. Also it would explain the intake backfire/puttering start-up problem also. I will post later today after I replace it.
 
So I changed the fuel filter and it seemed to go away, drove to my Mom's 10 miles highway,..... Seafoamed Gas tank and from the PCV hose into intake manifold.....then after clearing out the seafoam and driving to my aunts then back to my Moms I changed the plugs and made sure the gap was .44 the little town only has a NAPA and they only had Champion plugs(copper) so thats what I put in. I cleaned the throttle body, MAF and now it seems to be cranking up after about 3-4 seconds. Next I'm gonna replace the battery because m,y lights aare dimming alot. After the seafoam the CEL came on and when I disconnected the battery to clean out the MAF and change the plugs it hasn't come back on.
 
Good to hear Tanner.

The thing circled is the EVAP solenoid. I have one go back on a Chevy truck once but I cannot recall anyone having theirs replaced on a 4runner, even though 2002 models sometimes have to have the whole canister replaced.

When you have an extra $20, and the right store, buy the dual NGK plugs.
 
ok guys its been 2 days and it started acting up again.....The truck is not cranking back up once turned off....It is turning over but not turning on. Please any advice?

1. replaced the fuel filter
2. replaced ignitor module
3. replaced plugs
4. cleaned throttle body/MAF/intake tubing
5. not bad gas because its not spuddering while driving

When I crank it back on and it finally starts up it putters for about 3-6 seconds while I have to give it gas to stay on and when it starts up its fine.
 
ok guys its been 2 days and it started acting up again.....The truck is not cranking back up once turned off....It is turning over but not turning on. Please any advice?

1. replaced the fuel filter
2. replaced ignitor module
3. replaced plugs
4. cleaned throttle body/MAF/intake tubing
5. not bad gas because its not spuddering while driving

When I crank it back on and it finally starts up it putters for about 3-6 seconds while I have to give it gas to stay on and when it starts up its fine.

How are you giving it gas????? Its fuel injected not carburated. Im pretty sure there are a list of things I suggested that you havent done. You havent confirmed if it is or isnt getting spark when just cranks. What does the OBDII reader say when you are trying to start it. To be honest, I dont think you have the electrical knowledge or skills to do simple troubleshooting and research. You just throw parts at it but you dont know why. You replaced the igniter module but never verified if you were actually getting spark or not. Your going to have to take it to somebody that has the ability to troubleshoot.
 
I didn't know I had to check in with you...DAN

Spark = yes I can see the arc on all 3 wires to plugs and coil packs... I know its something to do with fuel because when I hold down the gas pedal when I'm cranking it, it will backfire then sputter to start up I never said it was carb'd....Hence its getting spark and while I'm holding the gas pedal and its sparking it will putter and then it will idle up after about 3-5 seconds.

So you know when an igniter starts to go out it will get hot and shut ur ignition system down or it can cause incorrect signals to be sent to the ignition coils.

I usually stay away from forums because of people like you. I can swap and rebuild motors and have been doing for about 8 years...I've just never run into a problem like this.... So I'd appreciate if you kept your opinions to yourself...If you wanted to know if i Tried your methods you could've asked...You can't read codes when there are none being read by the computer....Thanks anyway though.
 

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