Randy Ellis Design Sliders

Randy Ellis Design said:
Yes they are like what the JK Rubicons come with.

We have had a few guys asking questions so I took some time and put together this response to a customers email.

"Sleekster Rockers are something new and different for trucks, you are not alone so I will take some time here to possibly help you understand. Trucks are evolving and the parts and accessories need to as well. Sleekster Rockers are an alternative to welding tube sliders to your frame. They will give you more ground clearance and do not have large voids to hang up on rocks and things. They also will not flex and bang your body when running high speed off-road. The Sleekster Rockers are a formed structural member that distributes the weight over the strongest part of the body, they hug the basic shape of your existing sheet metal rocker panel and do not hang below it.

Think of this, your frame on your truck is made of roughly .125 material (and newer trucks are even thinner) and most guys think this is very strong, and it is when in a formed shape of a rectangle or what people like to call "boxed". Most guys like to think if they weld something to the frame it is then strong as well? The frame of your truck is not magic or made of an exotic material impervious to damage, it is just mild steel. If you weld tube sliders to your frame then the slider has leverage to flex the frame. The slider basically has to flex up until it hits the body when you jack or land on a rock. The body is supporting the wight OR the tube slider will continue to flex up 1-2 inches or more if the body is not there to stop it. This means the tube slider needs to be mounted over an inch below the lowest part of the body to keep from hitting the body. It is fine if the slider has a tube that matches the pinch weld and it is supported the entire length of the body, then it will support the weight of the vehicle. If your tube sliders come out from the frame and cross the body in a few spots, the slider will flex up and dent the body where the tubes cross it. Either way you will loose at least 3" of ground clearance, you will loose less than 1/4" with our Rockers.

Our Sleekster Rockers are made from certified USA made A1011 .130 thickness material (thicker than most trucks on the road and the same material or better). It is like adding a frame rail to the rocker portion of the truck, the Sleekster Rockers are a formed structural member that when attached to the body become one and very strong. Also think of it as if you cut your rocker out and welded a 4x4 .120 square tube in its place as long as it is attached to the body and supporting the entire distance it would be very hard to dent that tube or damage the body. A lot of "hard core" guys will actually cut out their rocker and replace it with tube and some will even raise this area and replace it with steel plate commonly known as "boat siding". Another way to think of it is like early Jeep guys bolting angle iron to the side of their Jeep. Now the newest Jeep Wranglers have multiple designs available to bolt to the side of their Jeeps, at the "pinch weld". The pinch weld is just where the upper portion and lower portion and sometimes a 3rd floor portion all come together and are pinched together and welded usually with dozens of spot welds, this is by far the strongest part of the body."

If you guys have any questions feel free to give me a call on these.

AND, we will have a factory Toyota corner for the SR5 guys that makes the lower flare the same as the Trail Edition. So the Rockers will look the same on both. These will be available from Toyota 4/2014 (or us).
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Can we see a SR5 with the setup?
 
This is a pic of the corners. They are what now come on the 2014 SR5 4Runners.
 

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Any difference for the LTE? I have one without factory running boards that I would like to equip with your sliders. Thanks in advance.
 
eddiebx said:
I am so confused, is the slider there already in that picture? Any clearer pictures? :confused:
Click to expand...

No slider in that picture. I don't think that piece will line up with the 2010-2013 LE/ SR5's (I could be wrong). The slider is a good idea, but I'm yet to see them with this piece on a 2010-2013 LE/SR5. I know he said it's not available till 4/14, but showing a stock picture as an example of your work that doesn't have your work in it is not helpful.

This is a new product and a new way to mount them. I've asked for clarification, unfortunately he wants to push his product on here and not have to put any effort into it. I don't get it...lots of opportunity here can be had with minimal effort.. Again great idea, not so clear on the marketing.

I gave up and ordered shrockworks.
 
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Right behind you [MENTION=45399]thebwlife[/MENTION]. I read his dissertation on the mounting approach and despite or perhaps due to my limited knowledge of structural engineering thought I might go that way if it looked clean. Off to the Shrockworks page...
 
I really like this design. Any ideas on the weight? How difficult is the riveting process? Does it require a pro shop to install?
 
RED Sliders

Just put a set on my 2013 SR5 the other day. I did not want to trim my rockers or buy the TE rockers and these fit that criteria. They look great and are stout. They weigh around 40# each. The install is straightforward, one thing to note is that the 3/16ths rivets that are supplied are steel, which is great for strength but they are a ***** to put on if you have a hand riveter, best to find a shop/friend with a pneumatic one. Randy and his crew were very responsive to all of my questions and the sliders were delivered on time, 4-6 weeks. I would not hesitate to do business with them again. I also ordered the caps to (I) finish off the look of the front fender and (ii) to have something to attach the factory mudflap to. The pics exceed the size limit, so I will have to take some lower res ones to post.
 
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Flahart said:
Why not rivet nut the body and use countersunk 1/4" Stainless hardware instead of rivets? Would be a lot easier to remove if needed for repainting or replacement if damaged.
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This seems like a really good idea. I don't know much about holding power, sheer strength, etc.... but as long as it's strong enough for the application, it would definitely make more sense to be able to remove it.

I'm definitely considering moving up to these if I can find someone to take the n-Fabs off my hands.
 
¡sʎɐʍǝpıs pǝuɹnʇ pɐǝɥ ɹnoʎ ɥʇıʍ pǝpɹɐʇǝɹ ʞool ʎlqɐqoɹd noʎ 'sıɥʇ pɐǝɹ uɐɔ noʎ ɟı
Click to expand...

What if I can read it without turning my head? And how come your l's wouldn't invert? :bolt:
 
Flahart said:
Why not rivet nut the body and use countersunk 1/4" Stainless hardware instead of rivets? Would be a lot easier to remove if needed for repainting or replacement if damaged.

GRAINGER APPROVED VENDOR Rivet Nut,Knurled,Zinc,1/4-20x0.684,Pk40 - Rivet Nuts - 5NNP3|5NNP3 - Grainger Industrial Supply

and the correct tool to install

MARSON Heavy Duty Thread Sett - Thread Insert Tools - 4BB23|325-RN - Grainger Industrial Supply

You can also use a bolt and nut to install the rivet nut.
Click to expand...

Shrockworks uses rivet nuts on their rocker trim. I replaced the bolts with SS and they work great! Way better option than permanent rivets.
 
[MENTION=100779]Rustyhook[/MENTION] Any pictures yet? I am really curious to see how it all comes together. How much did they charge for shipping?
 
There is a small shoulder on the rivet nut. Will that force the slider to rest on top of the shoulder? Or put another way will the slider not fit flush against the door sill?

I realize I'm only talking about a 1/16 of an inch but it would allow small rocks and particulate to accumulate.
 
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Rustyhook said:
Shipping was $132.
Click to expand...

That looks great, makes the 4runner look like its has more lift.
This is a great solution for those with SR5 and Limited models, no need to cut up the stock rocker panel, or spend 270 on shrockworks rocker filler trim.
 
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