Rate my Timing Belt

D

deanerdub

New member
Hi Folks,

New owner, new to the site, first posting.

I have a 2007 Limited V8. Did my fair share of shopping around and am happy with the vehicle I ended up with. There is one issue (there is always at least one isn't there?)

I bought from a dealer and the T4R came with a pile of service records. I have scoured the service records, searched online, and cannot find a records of the timing belt being changed. This is very concerning for me. The truck seems very well maintained, it surprises me it's not there. I called the old owner because his name was all over the receipts. He loved the truck. Misses it. Said that the previous owner did the timing belt, not him. If they did, they did it early, which I find a little suspicious. Still, does a guy who loves his truck neglect to do something that could destroy the engine? Doesn't seem likely.

The truck has 116,000 miles (186k) currently. The old owner has had it since 82,000 miles, or 131k. Old owner said he checked and verified it was done when he bought it.

I have a trip planned to the Translab highway in a month. From to Toronto to the Northern Points of Newfoundland - the hard way. It is 1400 kms (900 miles) of gravel road. 540k (330) between towns at one point. New truck - taking it far. 5000kms (3100) in total.

From this site I learned that it can be inspected. So, the independent mechanic recommended by my neighbour who owns a mint condition 2004 SR5 T4R has looked at the timing belt and said it was "not replaced" and "showing signs of wear." Wants $1050 to change it. Given new truck and other budget concerns of the trip - this hurts. I wanted to see for myself I thought I'd ask the experts. I can go to the dealer, they wanted $50 to unscrew the four bolts, but that would be another opinion.

So tell me, you have most of the details, what would you rate my timing belt on a scale of 1 to 10??

Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum - deanerdub's Album: Timing Belt May 2014
 
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I can't really tell from the pics but my concern would be messed up teeth which you cannot see just by removing the left and right timing covers unless I guess if you move the crank and look at the teeth fro the side as they pass, but even so you can't see parts of them. You can save on parts by buying the AISIN Stuff which is what Toyo uses, getting ready to do mine at 120k.
 
There's really no way of knowing the condition of the belt by a visual inspection. I have seen several timing belts that have failed look pretty good to the naked eye.
If I were you and could not verify with 100% certainty that the belt was replaced I would replace it.

To the well trained eye one can tell if the bolts, nuts, fasteners, clips and such had ever been removed to get at the timing belt.
 
Say the belt was changed @ 80,000 miles. It now has 36,000 more miles. That's gonna make looking at the bolts, nuts, fasteners, clips more difficult (but not impossible) to tell if they have been removed before.

Years ago, I saw a Honda Accord timing belt that had 2 consecutive teeth missing from the belt. Other than that, the rest of the belt looked perfectly fine. It had 120,000 miles on it.
 
Barefoot said:
Say the belt was changed @ 80,000 miles. It now has 36,000 more miles. That's gonna make looking at the bolts, nuts, fasteners, clips more difficult (but not impossible) to tell if they have been removed before.

You would be surprised at how easy it is. The scratches on the bolts don't go away. Some depends on how clean the engine and such is also.
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toyo said:
There's really no way of knowing the condition of the belt by a visual inspection. I have seen several timing belts that have failed look pretty good to the naked eye.
If I were you and could not verify with 100% certainty that the belt was replaced I would replace it.
Click to expand...

This.

I would replace it.
 
newer belts are made of different materials and last longer, but also look "better" longer. There's a reason Toyota's interval went from 6yr/60k to 9yr/90k going into the 2UZ-FE, part of it was belt material (I forget what they use now), the new stuff actually looks perfectly fine until it just gives out, where as older belts cracked and aged more visibly.

You can see markings on the bolts and look and see if you can see black FIPG around the thermostat housing (this may be difficult to see) as Toyota typically uses Grey from the factory.

The belt is getting up there in mileage and I would personally feel more comfortable having it replaced sooner than later. I would also inquire if the $1200 quote includes parts and labor to replace the water pump as it is a good idea to do this as preventative maintenance while you have the front of the motor apart.

If you're technically savvy I actually have a write-up on how to replace your timing belt by yourself:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/130732-2uz-fe-r-r-t-belt-water-pump.html

Also if the dealership does do your service, make sure they use Genuine Toyota SLLC (Super Long Life Coolant, also known as "Toyota Pink") or equivalent coolant, if you need help we can identify it for you; there have been some dealers that members have taken their vehicles to that have used incorrect fluid.
 
There should be a sticker somewhere that says when it was done. Mine was done at a dealer in Newmarket and the sticker is on the throttle body cover.

Even if the belt looks OK, there's no way to tell in situ if its stretched, ready to jump a tooth. The tensioner is also a critical part in the system, hows the bearing in it?
 
TRDCal said:
There should be a sticker somewhere that says when it was done. Mine was done at a dealer in Newmarket and the sticker is on the throttle body cover.

If you get it done at a Toyota and Lexus dealer they should put a sticker on the radiator support. Lexus is much better at doing this than Toyota though.
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toyo said:
TRDCal said:
There should be a sticker somewhere that says when it was done. Mine was done at a dealer in Newmarket and the sticker is on the throttle body cover.
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If you get it done at a Toyota and Lexus dealer they should put a sticker on the radiator support. Lexus is much better at doing this than Toyota though.
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Wow, what's that your 5th t-belt?!?!...Hope mine does that good, it'll be due for its third next summer.
 
Last edited:
BlackWorksInc said:
newer belts are made of different materials and last longer, but also look "better" longer. There's a reason Toyota's interval went from 6yr/60k to 9yr/90k going into the 2UZ-FE, part of it was belt material (I forget what they use now), the new stuff actually looks perfectly fine until it just gives out, where as older belts cracked and aged more visibly.

You can see markings on the bolts and look and see if you can see black FIPG around the thermostat housing (this may be difficult to see) as Toyota typically uses Grey from the factory.

The belt is getting up there in mileage and I would personally feel more comfortable having it replaced sooner than later. I would also inquire if the $1200 quote includes parts and labor to replace the water pump as it is a good idea to do this as preventative maintenance while you have the front of the motor apart.

If you're technically savvy I actually have a write-up on how to replace your timing belt by yourself:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/130732-2uz-fe-r-r-t-belt-water-pump.html

Also if the dealership does do your service, make sure they use Genuine Toyota SLLC (Super Long Life Coolant, also known as "Toyota Pink") or equivalent coolant, if you need help we can identify it for you; there have been some dealers that members have taken their vehicles to that have used incorrect fluid.
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post timing chain and HG change. My car is idel high withcodeP0012, any ideas?
 
That's my wife's old RX300. My son drives it now. Pushing 365 now! Still has the original starter, alternator, a/c comp etc. Only repair minus maintenance that car has ever needed is a transmission.
 
I would use mileage/engine hours when determining when to change the belt. As there is no easy way to get engine hours on our machines mileage is the way to go. The problem with timing belts is not missing teeth or stretch. It is that the small fibers that make up the belt breaking down with help of heat and a billion or so rotations over 140,000km they are rated for. Then with no warning SNAP, **** and a large repair bill.
 
First off..there is absolutely no way you can tell if a timing belt is going to by a visual inspection. I've seen timing belts that look brand new and then broke 1000 miles later. Yes you can tell if there are visible signs of fatigue..but MOST of the time there are no signs.

Second...You have to assume that the belt was never done. The records are iffy.

Third...DO NOT go to the dealer to get this done. Find a good independent. They'll usually charge half that price. Timing belts is NOT rocket science. I've replaced many in my day and I'm not a professional mechanic. Any good mechanic will have no problem replacing a timing belt. And they are far easier to replace on a forward facing engine like the 4runner then a transverse mounted engine.
 
MikeInNH said:
First off..there is absolutely no way you can tell if a timing belt is going to by a visual inspection. I've seen timing belts that look brand new and then broke 1000 miles later. Yes you can tell if there are visible signs of fatigue..but MOST of the time there are no signs.

Second...You have to assume that the belt was never done. The records are iffy.

Third...DO NOT go to the dealer to get this done. Find a good independent. They'll usually charge half that price. Timing belts is NOT rocket science. I've replaced many in my day and I'm not a professional mechanic. Any good mechanic will have no problem replacing a timing belt. And they are far easier to replace on a forward facing engine like the 4runner then a transverse mounted engine.
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That's being a little harsh on the dealer don't ya think? Not all dealers charge out the ass for good work. The dealers around here are actually pretty competitive. There are just as many bad dealers as independent shops around.
 
That's being a little harsh on the dealer don't ya think? Not all dealers charge out the ass for good work.
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I'm not saying they are dishonest or bad. How could you possible conclude I was saying that. But why pay $150/hr (going dealer rate here in NH) when you can get a good independent that charges $75/hr? Dealer rates are outrageous. What are dealer rates where you live? What are good independent rates?
 
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