Rattle Underneath 4Runner - Need Help

My new TE had a rattle at idle and when driving slowly.

I had the dealer drop and inspect the skid plates and drive the truck. They couldn't find anything.

It eventually went away on its own.
 
I had the same issue with my 2013 SR5 after the first 50 miles. Evidently part of the spot welding in exhaust system and the baffle in muffler came loose. Dealership replaced muffler and it is much better now.
 
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When I offered my professional, technical approach and advice, I explained my reasoning as well. Would you care to offer an explanation for your DRAMATIC WARNING?

rigtec

Better to do it with a person sitting in the truck parking brake engaged and foot on the brake pedal. At idle of course. Chock the wheels too.
 
Mine has a rattle that I've narrowed down to my front brakes.. 2 weeks ago, i took apart the front brakes to lube them up (i've done brakes numerous times) after having fun on the trails cuz they started to squealed now and then. They were very quiet afterwards but the time frame seems about right. so tomorrow I'm gonna go back in there and see what's up.. i looked at the brakes but not really good, today thinking mainly that it was my beat up oem skids plates and pulled them apart and banged one back in shape. and still had the rattle. So i tried holding my brakes over bumpy roads where it would rattle with that metal-ish sound and it wouldn't do it when i had the brakes depressed. so i decided I'd go back at it tomorrow.
 
I recently had the exact same problem and also heard it when backing out the garage. I would also hear it when driving over a speed table in the neighborhood.
I took to the dealership and explained the situation. Actually the tech knew what sound i was referring to ("sounds like tin rattling") were her words.
She stated it could be heat shield or skid plates.
They said two bolts were somewhat loose on the skid and they just had to tighten.
I have not heard the sound since.
 
Hi ATL4R,

I've worked for many years (upwards of thirty five), as a mechanic. And I get it, "safety first". The things you mentioned, are extra precautions, nothing wrong with that; I''ll often take some extra safety steps too if I feel I need to (tis' a judgement call).

Additionally, I could have advised by the book, telling the operator to "Remove both drive shafts before starting...", but I opted not to because my focus was mainly to help him locate the source of his rattle, not to instruct him in the importance of observing safety standards.

If I thought that the OP was incompetent, I might have advised him to take the truck back to the dealership, because the scope of the job is beyond that which could be safely done in the driveway.

With all of these extra safety measures that I opted not to discuss, being very careful was implied when I instructed to "chock the wheels" along with setting the parking brake. The advise that I offered still was not bad advise; not by far. Thanks again for your input.

rigtec, cheers



Hey, I completely agree with you. Having been a mechanic on machines up to 155,000 lbs, and vehicles of every configuration, your advice and safety are completely adequate. The problem is, there are so many people that have thrown so many reduction gears and axles that aren’t stock. I guess the vehicles some people own are able to crawl over chocks or possibly straight up a wall if left unattended in gear. I wish I had that kind of money to make my vehicle that kind of a torque monster!!
But for a stock 4Runner, not in low or 4 I’d say a broom handle would work.
 

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