rear 3rd member swap

01thunder

New member
i haven't pulled anything yet so i am asking first. do i have to disconnect the wheel cylinders to remove axles to remove 3rd member, or do the axles come out without touching them?
 
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Hey Ivan, yes, you have to disconnect the brake lines at the back of the wheel cylinders because the rear brake backing plates come out with the axles.

Here's a video you could reference for the 3rd Member Swap. It's not a hard job.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZMTbgY1xQKk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
You should be able to put a 3rd Member from any 3rd Gen year. The big difference is when you find one with an e-locker. The e-locker 3rd members have different gearing. Non-e-locker rear ends have 4.10 gearing and e-locker rear ends have 4.30 gearing. So, if your rig didn't come with an e-locker, you'll have 4.10 gearing in your front and rear differentials. If your rig came with an e-locker, you have 4.30 gearing in your front and rear differentials. So, you want to add an e-locker to a rig that originally didn't come with one, you have to either change the gearing in that e-locker to 4.10 gearing, swap the front differential for one with 4.30 gearing, or re-gear your front differential to 4.30 gearing. And of course you have to wire up the e-locker.
 
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my truck is 2wd with 4.10. not all came with 4.10 though. i just got back from a yard i deal with and they have one from an 02 that is a 3.73. it is tight and clean. now, if i get it and put it in, will the computer "auto correct" the speed difference, or just wait and get a 4.10?
 
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my truck is 01 with 4.10, the 02 rear is 3.73. will the computer correct the difference in gearing and correct my speedo?
 
Actually you don't have to remove the brake lines. The shafts will slide out just enough to where the diff will have clearance but it's safer to remove them anyways. I've done it 5 times without removing them.

Also I would advise not to use RTV as people swear is sufficient to the oem gasket. But it's messy and overtime it may not hold up. Just buy the Toyota gasket and clean the mating surfaces real good

As far as changing gear ratios it will be fine as long as youre 2wd.. Your speedo readings won't change at all besides the RPMs
 
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my truck is 01 with 4.10, the 02 rear is 3.73. will the computer correct the difference in gearing and correct my speedo?
Speedo is run from the ABS system - gearing doesn't affect the speedo on ABS equipped 4Runners. Since you don't have a front diff, you don't have to worry about that part.

A 3.73 in a truck with 31" tires is pretty lazy (I put 32's on mine before re-gearing to 4.10's and it was very noticeable).

Locker 3rd members have a different housing and bolt pattern to the housing to clear the locking mechanism, so they aren't directly swappable.

-Charlie
 
Actually you don't have to remove the brake lines. The shafts will slide out just enough to where the diff will have clearance but it's safer to remove them anyways. I've done it 5 times without removing them.

This...I just use my long impact sockets as spacers to keep the axle shafts from sliding back in. You just pull on the whole brake assembly and rotate a bit until you feel them disengage from the 3rd member. If you are not immediately sticking the other 3rd member in make sure to support the brake assembly so the axle sits in the middle of the axle tube so you don't ruin your axle seals.
 
You should be able to put a 3rd Member from any 3rd Gen year. The big difference is when you find one with an e-locker. The e-locker 3rd members have different gearing. Non-e-locker rear ends have 4.10 gearing and e-locker rear ends have 4.30 gearing. So, if your rig didn't come with an e-locker, you'll have 4.10 gearing in your front and rear differentials. If your rig came with an e-locker, you have 4.30 gearing in your front and rear differentials. So, you want to add an e-locker to a rig that originally didn't come with one, you have to either change the gearing in that e-locker to 4.10 gearing, swap the front differential for one with 4.30 gearing, or re-gear your front differential to 4.30 gearing. And of course you have to wire up the e-locker.

Not always true. According to the code in the door AO4A my 1996 with e locker came with factory 4.56. I have two buddy's with none lockers and reading their codes they have 4.10.
 
You should be able to put a 3rd Member from any 3rd Gen year. The big difference is when you find one with an e-locker. The e-locker 3rd members have different gearing. Non-e-locker rear ends have 4.10 gearing and e-locker rear ends have 4.30 gearing. So, if your rig didn't come with an e-locker, you'll have 4.10 gearing in your front and rear differentials. If your rig came with an e-locker, you have 4.30 gearing in your front and rear differentials. So, you want to add an e-locker to a rig that originally didn't come with one, you have to either change the gearing in that e-locker to 4.10 gearing, swap the front differential for one with 4.30 gearing, or re-gear your front differential to 4.30 gearing. And of course you have to wire up the e-locker.

These ratios are not set in stone. 96-00 6cyl locked manuals came with 4.10.
 
Locker 3rd members have a different housing and bolt pattern to the housing to clear the locking mechanism, so they aren't directly swappable.

-Charlie

That. It's actually fairly involved to mod a non e-locked rear housing to accept a e-locked third. Best bet for anyone reading this in the future wanting to do the swap is to get the whole e-locked axle. Way easier.
 
i need to find something. i don't know how long it takes, but i don't want a new trans to get ruined due to vibrations resonating through the driveshaft..
 
is it the diff that's causing the vibrations or is it the propeller shaft? before swapping diffs, it may be worthwhile to have the propeller shaft checked for imbalance or for damaged cardan joints that may be causing the vibrations
 
is it the diff that's causing the vibrations or is it the propeller shaft? before swapping diffs, it may be worthwhile to have the propeller shaft checked for imbalance or for damaged cardan joints that may be causing the vibrations
The 2WD driveshaft has no double cardan and no slip yoke. The slip yoke is at the trans output and it has two single u-joints.

And to 01thunder - if you haven't fixed the driveshaft (errr... completely replaced it), do that first... the 2WD driveshaft wears out with time due to a rubber coupler in the middle of it.

-Charlie
 

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