Rear Axle Bolt Question

[tbst]

I took the rear axle apart to replace the seals. (They were leaking.) I found that on one side two of the bolts weren't the bolts that are supposed to be there. On the other side it is one. They aren't the recessed bolts. The ones I am talking about are shown below.

My question is, if I go to fastenal, are there bolts I can order to replace these, at least temporarily? Or any other places that I could get them to "fix" it? (Yes, maybe, and likely, that is why the seals were leaking in the first place, but the bolts they used were rinky dinky.) Need to drive to the airport Wednesday morning.

Also, how do those bolts lock down in there? I figured they were carriage bolts, but when I looked in it looked threaded, however I don't think this makes sense unless they were reverse threaded.

Been a long day. If that doesn't make sense I can clarify!

Thanks

(2001 T4R SR5 4wd)

H/t to BigFishAll day. Stole his picture.

 

[Big John]

I've yet to have a problem with those but by looking at the breakdown it would seem that you're gonna have to tear the axle down to get those studs out.
I'd like to see a pic of what YOU have.
I'm having trouble picturing it the way you explained it.

 

[tbst]

Two of these bolts are missing. In their place were some dinky other bolts.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e191/bigfishallday/P6040713.jpg

 

[Big John]

I've yet to have a problem with these, but by looking at the breakdown you posted it looks to be a stud. I'd go to the stealership and get the studs. Then you only have to pull it all apart once.

 

[Nelsonmd]

yeah, they are definitely studs. It's odd that they would have broken, but you should be able to get replacements from a dealer, under $2 probably. Nuts are the same thing, get them from the dealer.

Anyone know if he needs to press in the studs, or can he press them in using the nut?

 

[tbst]

Clarity

yeah, they are definitely studs. It's odd that they would have broken, but you should be able to get replacements from a dealer, under $2 probably. Nuts are the same thing, get them from the dealer.

Anyone know if he needs to press in the studs, or can he press them in using the nut?

I guess I wasn't clear in the original post. Sorry, guys.

I know I can get them from the dealer. However, they can't get them until Wednesday. I have to leave Wednesday for the airport (early am).

Do you think I could find some similar grade 8 bolts and put them in for now and it wouldn't negate my new seals?

 

[Nelsonmd]

I guess I wasn't clear in the original post. Sorry, guys.

I know I can get them from the dealer. However, they can't get them until Wednesday. I have to leave Wednesday for the airport (early am).

Do you think I could find some similar grade 8 bolts and put them in for now and it wouldn't negate my new seals?

Well, getting as big a bolt as will fit is your best bet (certainly better than undersized bolts), but I would avoid driving it as much as possible anyway until you can get the right parts. High grade should be fine for this, as I think the stud is hardened, but you probably don't want to leave them there as they will probably corrode faster and may lose preload more over time..

 

[tbst]

Ugh! Damn Mechanics of Materials words. Makes me sick!

But seriously, I will get some bolts in there and will change them out when I get back Friday.

 

[tbst]

I like to try and end threads.

I got the bolts from Toyota. They do not need to be pressed in, per se. They do need to be pulled in using the nut on the backside of the flange.

I would recommend using some locking nuts, as it is easier to pull the "studs" through then.

Never drove on the grade 8 bolts I put in, figured it wasn't worth risking it.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Glad to hear it worked out easily, and that you didn't crash with the dinky bolts in there. We did some case studies in college of automotive component/material failures that resulted in terrible accidents. Glad you didn't become one of them.