rear axle seal leaking! how long do I have?

It's possible to drive the seals too far in to the axle housing. If you note on the diagram I posted in post #29, there is only a 1mm allowance for the retainer position... This in turn rides on the seal. So really the seal only has the same 1mm allowance for its position.

If your guy didn't damage the seal upon installation, this is my guess as to why it's already leaking.
 
On my '96 limited I had same independent mechanic try 3 times to fix seal. 2nd and 3rd at his expense. All three failed in a one year time frame. I finally took it to my local dealer for repair. Still good after 14 months. Experienced Toyota mechanic is very huge in my opinion for this repair. I will only use dealer or proven Toyota knowledgeable mechanic for axle seals in the future on my other 3rd gens.
 
Don't forget the new breather.

Going to do a relocate right now. I got it back from my indy and wow I have rear brakes again!!!!:rockon: Now lets hope it doesn't start leaking again. I did order an extra set of Toyota seals just incase. I did however have him use Mobil 1 75/90 so I hope that isn't going to cause me an issue down the road.
 
Ok did the breather mod and extended it Old breather was completely rusted close.
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Back in February when I still had my 3rd gen I did the drivers side, it ran me a little under $300 for parts and labor. That was seal, crush sleeves, bearings and everything else my buddy over at Toyota told me I needed, didn't do the brake shoes although I probably should've done them BBUUUTT she's totaled now so that's that...
 
I'm not sure it is. Check this out: Toyota Maintenance: Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings and Seals

I just noticed gear oil on the wheel of the Wiferunner a couple weeks ago, so I'll be giving this a shot shortly. If I'm able to do it without resorting to the machine shop I'll post a writeup.

Ha that no-press method looks like it'd be interesting to try. Let us know if it works.

Just to update, this didn't work for me. I destroyed a 2x6 in the process, the retainer hasn't budged. I could have cut the retainer and/or ABS rings, but I'm a stingy bastard and I just bought a press a couple months ago so I'm going to try and build an SST first. I'll post pics.
 
Just to update, this didn't work for me. I destroyed a 2x6 in the process, the retainer hasn't budged. I could have cut the retainer and/or ABS rings, but I'm a stingy bastard and I just bought a press a couple months ago so I'm going to try and build an SST first. I'll post pics.
I did this a few weeks ago, it worked perfectly.

though, we do have a press to put them back on with. removing them by slamming the axle against the ground worked great.
 
Ok so I just noticed that my rear drivers side axle seal must be leaking. My question is how long do I have before this thing has to be changed? What symptoms will I notice other than a leak? How much do shops generally charge for new axle seals to be replaced?

I was just quoted over $700 to do both sides of my leaking rear axle seals. I need to save up, and my mechanic, a 4runner guy, said "as long as you don't mind self lubricating rear brakes" you can drive it around town, but I wouldn't go far"

To anyone- Other than for stopping, is this why many people like to do the tundra brake swap?
 
Mine must be on there good then? Dunno, I couldn't get them to budge.
i was actually VERY surprised how easily they came off.

though, these were very likely the original bearings, and had been running 38"+ tires behind a v8 for more than 10 years.
that may have helped loosen them up. lol.
 
I was just quoted over $700 to do both sides of my leaking rear axle seals. I need to save up, and my mechanic, a 4runner guy, said "as long as you don't mind self lubricating rear brakes" you can drive it around town, but I wouldn't go far"

To anyone- Other than for stopping, is this why many people like to do the tundra brake swap?

The Tundra brake upgrade is for the front only so no.

$700 seems like a lot for this job....he wants to do rear shoes and hardware too, then?
 
When my drivers side first went the first time, my bearing was good and my guy used a pick tool and pulled the plastic cover off the bearing and re-packed it with grease. Don't know if everyone knows this, but if it's not bad, you don't have to replace the bearing, just put new grease in. WHen we had it all apart (this was like 6 years ago) we noticed some of the grease was washed out, and this was easy to do when you don't have a new bearing on you.
 
Mine must be on there good then? Dunno, I couldn't get them to budge.

Wow, it's on there damned good. I hacked up a housing and made an SST to throw in the press - I cranked on it until I was practically using body weight to lever the jack, and it still hasn't moved. I don't know how much more pressure I can safely put on the press, I might have to cut these things off after all.
 
Wow, it's on there damned good. I hacked up a housing and made an SST to throw in the press - I cranked on it until I was practically using body weight to lever the jack, and it still hasn't moved. I don't know how much more pressure I can safely put on the press, I might have to cut these things off after all.

snap a pic up close of the bearings you are dealing with.
 
Haha, NO. Any pic I snap at this point will show the snap ring I forgot to remove, and I'm not telling anybody about that.
:D

I was getting ready to ask, but I wanted to see a pic first. just in case.
not all models/years used the snap-ring, and I wasn't sure what year you were dealing with.
 

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