Rear axle "twerk" on freeway

I think your money would be best spent getting a strongly made lift (followed by drop) bracket and new bushings in the OEM bar. There is no need at all for an adjustable bracket and an adjustable if you match the height of the bracket correctly.

I have the bilsteins and the ome's on different trucks. Ome's are meant to take a beating, but are harsh. The billies are much smoother.
 
I'm having the same problem with a stock setup, at hiway speeds if you hit a series of bumps it will start swaying. this happened after I replaced steering rack bushings, lower balljoints, shocks and struts(stock replacement monroes) sway bar bushings, and new tires (goodyear armour tracs) and moog stock rear springs. it didnt sway before I replaced all these worn out parts but now it does, I've double and triple checked everything else for loose or worn out bushings. I don't feel anything in the steering wheel when it starts swaying. I also had an alignment done after I did all this work???????????????????????
 
rideexileex said:
I and others I know had several issues with the bushings in our aftermarket Panhard bar - I don't want want to bash but the OEM had no problems to speak of - it just needs a bracket!

The other super downer is that an adjustable bar with no bracket throws the geometry off. Offroad it's fine - but when driving down the highway and hitting a big bump, it throws the ass end to the side really quick and shakes the truck. If the bar was level, it wouldn't have been as dramatic, but with only an extended bar and its angle, the lateral movement is much worse.
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Hmm. I have zero issues on highway when hitting bumps on stock panhard and no bracket. I got the panhard so my alignment shop that does lifted vehicles can align rear to front. He said they do them all the time and is pretty essential.

Guess I'll find out if it feels worse today since I'm installing the new panhard. I will post back and let people know if it gets worse.
 
So just installed the panhard bar. It only required little less than .5" longer than stock bar to align the axle within 1/8" of center.

Took her on a 40 mile highway drive, then a 30 mile dirt road and an 8 mile rough service road. The truck has never handled so well. It drives straight and true on the highway. Solid over any bumps, no sway at all.

Only negative is the axle hits the tank a little easier but that wont be so bad once I get my sway bar links installed.

All and all I found zero issues with it installed on the highway, just made it feel better than it ever has before.
 
JayRolla said:
So just installed the panhard bar. It only required little less than .5" longer than stock bar to align the axle within 1/8" of center.

Took her on a 40 mile highway drive, then a 30 mile dirt road and an 8 mile rough service road. The truck has never handled so well. It drives straight and true on the highway. Solid over any bumps, no sway at all.

Only negative is the axle hits the tank a little easier but that wont be so bad once I get my sway bar links installed.

All and all I found zero issues with it installed on the highway, just made it feel better than it ever has before.
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Heh, what I'm saying is that the oem bar is fine. What I'm implying is that a certain aftermarket panhard bar will get super sloppy after a while.
 
rideexileex said:
I have the bilsteins and the ome's on different trucks. Ome's are meant to take a beating, but are harsh. The billies are much smoother.
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I have always been a Bilstine man, so my first thought is go with the 5100s, but i just want my truck to ride well lol. Any idea which might have more dampening?
 
JayRolla said:
Only negative is the axle hits the tank a little easier but that wont be so bad once I get my sway bar links installed.
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Are you having this problem with the stock sway bar links on, or are you just running without links for now? If I end up doing this, will I need new links?
 
HotRodKing said:
Are you having this problem with the stock sway bar links on, or are you just running without links for now? If I end up doing this, will I need new links?
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My rear links are broken. When connected it would hit at full stuff only. Disconnected the axle has a lot more play and hits easier. I'm thinking of notching my gas skid to help.
 
FWIW I've had the rear end juke to the side really sharp for me on washboard gravel roads and certain bumps in the road no matter the speed, even when I was on stock suspension. Not sure what causes that, but it is super annoying. Feels like the back end wants to step out and fishtail. Washboard roads are the worst, anything over about 20mph feels kinda sketchy to me since it wants to go left-right-left real quick, especially under power.

-Steve
 
sjwelna said:
FWIW I've had the rear end juke to the side really sharp for me on washboard gravel roads and certain bumps in the road no matter the speed, even when I was on stock suspension. Not sure what causes that, but it is super annoying. Feels like the back end wants to step out and fishtail. Washboard roads are the worst, anything over about 20mph feels kinda sketchy to me since it wants to go left-right-left real quick, especially under power.

-Steve
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Down air your tires to 12-15psi. All that washboard jerk goes away.
 
sjwelna said:
Amen, it did this when I had them aired up to around 35 where I keep the BFG's at for around town driving. When I get offroad I drop them to ~15-18 in the woods.
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Try 12-15psi, its a huge difference. Even just 12psi feels like night and day compared to 15psi.
 
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