Rear axle "twerk" on freeway

HotRodKing

New member
Hey guys, been lurking for a while but haven't posted in well over a year. My 4Runner is 4x4 and seasoned with 308k miles and within the past 6 months or so, I've been experiencing pretty bad rear axle sway, or twerk as I like to describe it, when at freeway speeds. I had the rear upper and lower control arms replaced with fresh bushings. This helped quite a lot, but I was still getting a little sway especially when carrying a load. I also run 285/75/16 Goodyear Duratracs which probably exaggerate the sway as well. I recently upgraded my springs to OME 881 in the front and 891 in the rear. My shocks are still in good shape, but they are stock length Bilstines. I wasn't completely sure if this would help or not, but after driving it around, it definatly didn't help. I still get crazy sways over bumps above 60mph.

So now I'm not sure what to do to fix this. Putting the stock springs and tires on would help a lot, but what fun is that :P My sway bar bushings seem fine. My pan hard bar bushings could be worn out. I may need to get Bilstine 5100s. Not really sure. Would a pan hard drop kit help out? Is that even a thing for our runners?

Any advice would be helpful as this is my daily driver and I'd like to get it fixed ASAP. Thanks! :peace:
 
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How much are you lifted in the rear? Since you've lifted the rear the angle is more severe on the rear panhard and may be causing excessive lateral movement of the rear axle when it's compressed.

I'm having quite a bit of axle movement towards the gas tank when my rear axle is compressed. I have an adjustable panhard, but I'm going do the drop and see if that improves things. I'll be sure to post back if it works for me.
 
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How much are you lifted in the rear? Since you've lifted the rear the angle is more severe on the rear panhard and may be causing excessive lateral movement of the rear axle when it's compressed.

It's about 3"

Is there a good kit to do a panhard drop?
 
It's about 3"

Is there a good kit to do a panhard drop?

I would think about the adjustable panhard bar. The drop will level the bar out but it wont align the axle to the front tires. With 3" lift you are maybe .5-.75" off from the front which can cause a bit of sway at highway speeds.

The panhard drop really doesnt work as good as it should. Realistically the panhard should be lifted to level it out but there is no great way in doing this.
 
Check out Steve at Sonoran Steel, he makes very decent adjustable panhard with Yota bushings I believe.

Are most lifted runners having problem with driveshaft hitting gas tank when flexing the rear axle? I have an adjustable panhard, but no drop yet. It drives fine on the street, for a lifted truck at least.
 
Is the panhard bar stock?

I would highly recommend going for the panhard lift ideally, or panhard drop, over the extended bar. I have the extended bar and can't wait to get rid of it.
 
I will be watching this thread....... my problem is the rear "wiggles" at the slightest imperfection in the road. Mostly at slower speeds but it is annoying. I hate it. I have replaced almost every suspension part. I only have 2" lift from tundra shocks and ome springs. A local mech said that I had not tightened all the bolts on the rear end. It did it prior to the lift and after....no change. I checked ALL the bolts and everything is tight.
Help its driving me crazy.
 
Hey guys, been lurking for a while but haven't posted in well over a year. My 4Runner is 4x4 and seasoned with 308k miles and within the past 6 months or so, I've been experiencing pretty bad rear axle sway, or twerk as I like to describe it, when at freeway speeds. I had the rear upper and lower control arms replaced with fresh bushings. This helped quite a lot, but I was still getting a little sway especially when carrying a load. I also run 285/75/16 Goodyear Duratracs which probably exaggerate the sway as well. I recently upgraded my springs to OME 881 in the front and 891 in the rear. My shocks are still in good shape, but they are stock length Bilstines. I wasn't completely sure if this would help or not, but after driving it around, it definatly didn't help. I still get crazy sways over bumps above 60mph.

So now I'm not sure what to do to fix this. Putting the stock springs and tires on would help a lot, but what fun is that :P My sway bar bushings seem fine. My pan hard bar bushings could be worn out. I may need to get Bilstine 5100s. Not really sure. Would a pan hard drop kit help out? Is that even a thing for our runners?

Any advice would be helpful as this is my daily driver and I'd like to get it fixed ASAP. Thanks! :peace:

4Runner - Fully Adjustable Trac/PanHard Bar (1996 to 2002) - $195.00 : Sonoran Steel, Sonoran Steel Custom Metal Fabrication L.L.C. Custom Toyota Truck Parts
 
Are most lifted runners having problem with driveshaft hitting gas tank when flexing the rear axle? I have an adjustable panhard, but no drop yet. It drives fine on the street, for a lifted truck at least.

Yes it's normal with tall springs. Really no way around it and why Steve at Sonoran gives you a zurk replacement screw for rear of driveshaft so it don't shear off.

The adjustable Panhard aligns axle so it tracks straight with the front tires. Issue is it pushes axle closer to the tank.

Panhard drop or lift won't stop this rubbing. You can bend hammer gas tank skid. This is why SAS guys relocate gas tank.
 
Is the panhard bar stock?

I would highly recommend going for the panhard lift ideally, or panhard drop, over the extended bar. I have the extended bar and can't wait to get rid of it.

Why may I ask? The bar is essential to align rear axle to front. If not rear can wonder on highway and a slight pull. If you want to try and level Panhard then lift is best option but you still want the adjustable bar with the lift bracket.
 
Why may I ask? The bar is essential to align rear axle to front. If not rear can wonder on highway and a slight pull. If you want to try and level Panhard then lift is best option but you still want the adjustable bar with the lift bracket.

I got 3.75" lift in rear with only panhard bracket. Seems good so far.

But to OP, did you just by any chance double check your rear UCA and LCA bolts ? Maybe one or few are lose ? Something similar happened to me. After installing new UCA and LCA everything was good. Then after wheeling real hard one bolt came little lose and the whole rear end shifts side to side on acceleration. So re tighten the bolts fixed it. Or I should say, the one bolt that was lose.
 
But to OP, did you just by any chance double check your rear UCA and LCA bolts ? Maybe one or few are lose ? Something similar happened to me. After installing new UCA and LCA everything was good. Then after wheeling real hard one bolt came little lose and the whole rear end shifts side to side on acceleration. So re tighten the bolts fixed it. Or I should say, the one bolt that was lose.

I checked them simply by grabbing them and pulling, but I'll have to check.

I'm thinking I'll go with new Bilstine 5100s for the rear. Does anyone have expericne with those? They don't look too expensive and if the damper is higher and the rebound is lower, it should drastically help the ride.

As for the panhard, I used a level and held it on the tire and measued that the tire pokes out exactly 1" from the end of my fenders on each side. Would an andjustable panhard really do any benifit since it seems that my axle is within an 1/8" of perfectly center?
 
Why may I ask? The bar is essential to align rear axle to front. If not rear can wonder on highway and a slight pull. If you want to try and level Panhard then lift is best option but you still want the adjustable bar with the lift bracket.

I and others I know had several issues with the bushings in our aftermarket Panhard bar - I don't want want to bash but the OEM had no problems to speak of - it just needs a bracket!

The other super downer is that an adjustable bar with no bracket throws the geometry off. Offroad it's fine - but when driving down the highway and hitting a big bump, it throws the ass end to the side really quick and shakes the truck. If the bar was level, it wouldn't have been as dramatic, but with only an extended bar and its angle, the lateral movement is much worse.
 
I checked them simply by grabbing them and pulling, but I'll have to check.

I'm thinking I'll go with new Bilstine 5100s for the rear. Does anyone have expericne with those? They don't look too expensive and if the damper is higher and the rebound is lower, it should drastically help the ride.

I have the 5100s. I personally think its a great shock if you aren't going to be driving fast and beating on it. No issues so far.
 
I and others I know had several issues with the bushings in our aftermarket Panhard bar - I don't want want to bash but the OEM had no problems to speak of - it just needs a bracket!

The other super downer is that an adjustable bar with no bracket throws the geometry off. Offroad it's fine - but when driving down the highway and hitting a big bump, it throws the ass end to the side really quick and shakes the truck. If the bar was level, it wouldn't have been as dramatic, but with only an extended bar and its angle, the lateral movement is much worse.

Is anyone running an adjustable panhard AND a drop bracket? This is what I'm looking at doing, but won't bother if I'm not likely to see a change in how much the axle moves side to side or great improvement in ride.
 
panhard

Hot Rod,

Going to pile on with the group for an adjustable panhard bar. I just put one on from Steve at Sonoran Steel (just over $200+shipping) two days ago and my twerking days are over. I have the same OME springs you have and run 265/75/16 K02's.

His site has a good description. If you search on exped portal there's a guy that made some great diagrams showing why a 3"-4" lift puts that sideways pressure to passenger. If you email Steve, he'll answer any questions you may have within a day.

R
 
His site has a good description. If you search on exped portal there's a guy that made some great diagrams showing why a 3"-4" lift puts that sideways pressure to passenger. If you email Steve, he'll answer any questions you may have within a day.

Awesome, I'll have to look that up. $200 isn't terrible, and I'm thinking of dropping another $200 on rear shocks too.

I have the 5100s. I personally think its a great shock if you aren't going to be driving fast and beating on it. No issues so far.

When you say driving fast, do you mean like prerunner style off road or driving fast as in like 75 in the freeway?

I looked on Toytec and they actually recommend usuing the OME Nitro Charger shocks rather than the 5100. Does anyone have expericne with them? I haven't heard much but I have heard lots about the Bilstines.
 
When you say driving fast, do you mean like prerunner style off road or driving fast as in like 75 in the freeway?

I looked on Toytec and they actually recommend usuing the OME Nitro Charger shocks rather than the 5100. Does anyone have expericne with them? I haven't heard much but I have heard lots about the Bilstines.

Yeah, I mean like going 50mph offroad for a long time. You'd probably want reservoir shocks for stuff like that.

I personally would go with the Bilsteins over the OME (people will disagree which is great!), but would also depend on what coils you will use. If using OME coils, just go with OME shocks to keep it simple, IMO. Tons of info out there on both.
 
I personally would go with the Bilsteins over the OME (people will disagree which is great!), but would also depend on what coils you will use. If using OME coils, just go with OME shocks to keep it simple, IMO. Tons of info out there on both.

Great! I'd love to hear other opinions from the rest of you guys too and I'll do some research. Gunna spend this weekend in the sand and can't wait to test out the new setup. Can't say I'm looking forward to the 4 hour drive to get there though... :ohwell: hopefully the twerk isn't too bad
 

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