Rear brake overheating, need FSM

[Trojan4x4]

Long story short ... Replaced my axle seals, put new rear drums and shoes at it with hardware. Every time I pressed my brake my rear end would shake. I put old drums on and it went away. On the highway trip, after 30min, I smelled my brakes - my passenger side brakes overheated and had literally smoke coming out. Took it apart in the parking lot and adjusted it back.
Also i noticed when the brakes would get really hot, the rear end of the truck would shake, I pulled my abs sensors and saw gear oil. I figured that from shaking and overheating the seals could be damaged, so I bought new seals.
Did my seals and completely redone the drum brakes. Adjusted so they the drum spins completely without any drag and then finished it with the parking brake. The parking brake currently sits at 5 clicks.
However I took couple 10 minute trips and the drums feel hot to the touch. I feel like every time I use the parking brake, it overtightens them. I tried finding the FSM but all the links are too old.
What should I do? Thanks!

 

[thecole1098]

I can almost guarantee your problem is with the bell crank adjuster on the back of the backing plate, it’s visivle from under the vehicle so easy to adjust. Below on the FSM, follow procedure #3 to adjust that. If you do this and you get too many “clicks” out of the parking brake, follow the other attached FSM to adjust that. All pretty straight forward.

 

[diverscale]

. I feel like every time I use the parking brake, it overtightens them. I tried finding the FSM but all the links are too old.
What should I do? Thanks!

there is the autoadjust lever, which the bolt shall sit at most 1mm from the drum rear face.

Did you play with that?

Also, if you adjust them too tight, you will get your symptoms. Try adjusting back the pads until your wheel turns completely free, without any friction with the drum. They will auto-adjust to the optimal play over use of hand brake.

 

[tarsun]

i had the same problem.

it was the ebrake lever on the back side of the drum. (Diverscale's picture).

it was getting hung up and would not release.

the other issue i had was that i thought i over tightened the star wheel in the rear. so i started by loosing that, which worked (kindda)

but the root cause was the ebrake lever at the drum seizing. once that was fixed, i re-adjusted the star wheel and everything was fine.

with the ebrake pulled, the lever at the drum will not touch the drum.
with the ebrake off, the lever at the drum will be touching the drum.

dont know if this helps or not.

 

[mtbtim]

Long story short ... Replaced my axle seals, put new rear drums and shoes at it with hardware. Every time I pressed my brake my rear end would shake. I put old drums on and it went away. On the highway trip, after 30min, I smelled my brakes - my passenger side brakes overheated and had literally smoke coming out. Took it apart in the parking lot and adjusted it back.
Also i noticed when the brakes would get really hot, the rear end of the truck would shake, I pulled my abs sensors and saw gear oil. I figured that from shaking and overheating the seals could be damaged, so I bought new seals.
Did my seals and completely redone the drum brakes. Adjusted so they the drum spins completely without any drag and then finished it with the parking brake. The parking brake currently sits at 5 clicks.
However I took couple 10 minute trips and the drums feel hot to the touch. I feel like every time I use the parking brake, it overtightens them. I tried finding the FSM but all the links are too old.
What should I do? Thanks!

When you say you replaced axle seals, did you also replace the bearings and make sure you got a proper adjustment of the inner retainer on the axle?

 

[Trojan4x4]

Thus morning I went ahead and dialed the star wheel about 8 clicks back. After some highway driving I pulled over and my passenger side was super hot, so I took it apart and turned back another 10 or so clicks. Now my driver side is hot. I loosed the bell crank adjuster so that it's as close to the backing plate as possible - I figured the closer it is to the backing plate, the closer in the hook is, thus giving it slack.
I'm going to take it apart for the 5th time and try to follow the FSM

 

[nissanh]

I never adjust the bellcranks in any of the toyotas I deal with. The only adjustment I do is the star wheel on the brake shoes. Adjust it until it is not touching the drum and the drum is spinning freely. You should be able to slide the drum in and out over the brake shoes easily. Then put back the drum and pull the park brake lever 20 times or so.
My runner has just 2 clicks to apply the park brake.
By any chance did you switch the left and right side brake hardware?

 

[diverscale]

Thus morning I went ahead and dialed the star wheel about 8 clicks back. After some highway driving I pulled over and my passenger side was super hot, so I took it apart and turned back another 10 or so clicks. Now my driver side is hot. I loosed the bell crank adjuster so that it's as close to the backing plate as possible - I figured the closer it is to the backing plate, the closer in the hook is, thus giving it slack.
I'm going to take it apart for the 5th time and try to follow the FSM

You have yo pull the bellcrank as stated before adjusting if you don't you'll continue overadjusting using your HB

 

[Toyotayoda]

I had the very same issue after installing brand new NAPA shoes, and drums, and new hardware, the $50 shoes and premium drums. The passenger side was the problem, it was always self adjusting too tight. I went through and correctly adjusted the bell crank and cables,and machined the drum on that side because of the horrible warp, only to keep having the same issue of the passenger side brake shoes to adjust themselves to full lockdown. After about 3month of this I bought OE brake shoes, hasn't been a problem since. Not saying you have to buy OE, maybe a different brand is all thats needed, but should be a guaranteed problem solve.

 

[nissanh]

^^^ You got the left and right brake shoe adjusting star wheel mixed up. these have different threads. When left goes to left and right goes to right side, then both wheels gets adjusted. When you switch those, then one gets too tight and the other starts loosening. When I do the rear brakes, I keep the hardware separate for this exact reason.

 

[Toyotayoda]

^^^ You got the left and right brake shoe adjusting star wheel mixed up. these have different threads. When left goes to left and right goes to right side, then both wheels gets adjusted. When you switch those, then one gets too tight and the other starts loosening. When I do the rear brakes, I keep the hardware separate for this exact reason.

Is thats so? so by putting on different shoes I switched them back? you have no idea that that is whats wrong because you can't see the car, nor are you aware of the skill of the person working on the car. :flipoff:

 

[Trojan4x4]

I went ahead and follow the direction. Pulled the slack off the bell crank and loosed the adjustment screw. Both of the parking brake levels inside the drum are now touching the shoe backing. The passenger side is great, but the driver still gets too hot. I'm going to replace the return springs on the Parking brake lever and see if that helps.

 

[nevada]

I had the very same issue after installing brand new NAPA shoes, and drums, and new hardware, the $50 shoes and premium drums. The passenger side was the problem, it was always self adjusting too tight. I went through and correctly adjusted the bell crank and cables,and machined the drum on that side because of the horrible warp, only to keep having the same issue of the passenger side brake shoes to adjust themselves to full lockdown. After about 3month of this I bought OE brake shoes, hasn't been a problem since. Not saying you have to buy OE, maybe a different brand is all thats needed, but should be a guaranteed problem solve.

this could very possibly be the problem.

we have ran into this more than a handful of time. the shoes are being made wrong.