Rear brake upgrade

I dont understand the 20-30% larger surface area from changing the brake cylinder. All the cylinder does is push the drum breaks against the drum with a little rod. The setup of the drum assembly does the rest of the work. Now if it has more pushing force to cause a harder clamp then it could help. But its not like a caliper where larger calipers can take bigger pads to get more surface to clamp. Larger rear cylinders wont change the pad surface.

the pads don't have the larger surface area, the cylinder does. Meaning it can exert more force with the same input and ultimately more braking power. Think about it this way: Frictional force (braking power) = normal force * coefficient of friction. If you increase the area of the pad you increase the frictional force, and therefore increase the braking force. If you increase the area of the piston, you increase the normal force and get more braking with the same friction coefficient.
 
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the pads don't have the larger surface area, the cylinder does. Meaning it can exert more force with the same input and ultimately more braking power. Think about it this way: Frictional force (braking power) = normal force * coefficient of friction. If you increase the area of the pad you increase the frictional force, and therefore increase the braking force. If you increase the area of the piston, you increase the normal force and get more braking with the same friction coefficient.

Wouldn't pressing harder on the brake pedal be the easiest nmost efficient way to increase normal force?

Maybe it is more like braking power= frictional coefficient ^ normal force....if only the frictional coefficient could be >1.

In the front we increased the coefficient..... To keep a good balance it would be better to do the same in the rear.

I'm just gonna grab some popcorn and go sit over here now. Can't wait for pics!
 
Wouldn't pressing harder on the brake pedal be the easiest nmost efficient way to increase normal force?

Maybe it is more like braking power= frictional coefficient ^ normal force....if only the frictional coefficient could be >1.

In the front we increased the coefficient..... To keep a good balance it would be better to do the same in the rear.

I'm just gonna grab some popcorn and go sit over here now. Can't wait for pics!

You can only press so hard on the brake pedal. The cylinder is giving you mechanical advantage. Bigger cylinder= more mechanical advantage (or the larger rotors on the front for that matter)

You can't have a coefficient of friction >1. Stopped is stopped. You can't be 110% stopped.

It doesn't matter if you increase the coefficient of friction or the force. What you care about is the stopping force. It's like arguing that 4 5 gallon buckets of water is more water than 1 20 gallon bucket.
 
If you can get hold of a Landcruiser Colorado/Prado rear axle it is a straight bolt on mod with no fabrication.

I'm just trying out if its "too much" to POR15 a brand new in the box axle housing from Toyota :behindsofa:

I've just started this swap. Progress will be in my build thread if anyone is interested.... currently waiting for my diffs back from the axle shop.
 
Do you drive the car like a race car or tow more that what the manual calls for? The car was designed the way it was for a reason, adding a larger wheel cylinder in the rear seems silly. Maybe I am a debbie downer. The drum components are sized to operate certain way. Are the shoes for tacoma the same? Or do they require something different? I'll be hesitate to try something without proper test equipment.
 
Do you drive the car like a race car or tow more that what the manual calls for? The car was designed the way it was for a reason, adding a larger wheel cylinder in the rear seems silly. Maybe I am a debbie downer. The drum components are sized to operate certain way. Are the shoes for tacoma the same? Or do they require something different? I'll be hesitate to try something without proper test equipment.

Debbie,

My 0 to 60 is like 5 seconds maybe 4, but my 60 to 0 is the total opposite.


FWIW. The drums and the pads are the same for the Taco and the 4Runner . Wheel cylinders are different.

If I hesitated to try something, the 2uz-fe wouldn't be in our vocabulary.
 
Are the master cylinders the same?

Increasing the size in the wheel cylinder reduces the work the wheel cylinder can do with no change in the size of the master.

It's just like a hydraulic jack. A 3 ton jack is going to get more movement of the jack piston per stroke of the pump than a 20 ton jack.
 
I've always wondered if the brake master cylinder out of the tundra/etc were bigger than the 4runner and if it would be a direct swap. I have swapped BMC's in subaru's before because there was a ~1/8" master cylinder piston diameter difference (stock forester/legacy/wrx versus the STI brake master cylinder) and it definitely made a difference in pedal feel, which on this truck is sorely lacking...:eyebrows:
 
Confused

I am rebuilding my rear brakes on a 1997 and trying to find the correct REAR brake wheel cylinder to order.

searched for hours and my head is spinning:clock:

I am trying to go with oem / Aisin brand

What is the correct part # and bore diameter ?

part # 4755035210 - 1" bore diameter is recommended by Camelback and rockauto, but seems the same Part number for Tundra

Part # 4755035190 - fits most Tacoma's but might have 7/8 bore diameter

Part # 4755026110 is recommended by ebay sellers

I have heard that the oem 4runner wheel cylinder bore diameter is 13/16 and 1 inch. ???

are the Master cylinders the same size for all 3rd gen 4runners?


Any help is super appreciated
 
Debbie,

My 0 to 60 is like 5 seconds maybe 4, but my 60 to 0 is the total opposite.


FWIW. The drums and the pads are the same for the Taco and the 4Runner . Wheel cylinders are different.

If I hesitated to try something, the 2uz-fe wouldn't be in our vocabulary.

Please post your track time reports. With acceleration like that I'm sure you take on unsuspecting competitors at sanctioned drag races because you're got the fastest-accelerating 4Runner in the world. I reckon you can could hold your own with a Shelby Mustang or Corvette at the track.
 
This entire thread confuses me. and kind of seems pointless

Singtoe states "The stock 4Runner has 13/16" bore wheel cylinders"

And upgrading to 1" Tundra would improve rear braking

However from my research during my brake job

the tundra and 4runner both use the 1" bore wheel cylinder

4runner part # 4755035210 - 1" bore diameter is recommended by Toyota, Camelback and rockauto, and seems the same Part number for Tundra
 
[MENTION=102502]Thunderbird[/MENTION]
I looked it up and it appears that 3rd gens with 15" wheels use 15/16" cylinders and 16" wheels use 1" cylinders. 1/16th of an inch really shouldn't add anything to the braking system IMO.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 
[MENTION=102502]Thunderbird[/MENTION]
I looked it up and it appears that 3rd gens with 15" wheels use 15/16" cylinders and 16" wheels use 1" cylinders. 1/16th of an inch really shouldn't add anything to the braking system IMO.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

I'm not disagreeing with you, but why would Toyota do it if it didn't do much?
 
I could be mistaken but I believe they are different sizes for wheel clearance. 15" vs 16". Kinda like the 199mm vs 231mm TBU wheel clearance issue.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 
Are you running super low gearing? That sounds optimistic. My mercedes won't even do that and it's similar weight with a much more powerful V8.



His truck gets up and goes, wouldn't surprise me if it did it in 5 seconds.

And this was before he added the supercharger to the 2UZ.
 

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