Rear Bumper Design Advice

[SunPilot]

I just finished my front bumper, and in a few weeks I plan to start on a rear bumper. I've been reading a lot of threads on here and I see a lot of people are dissatisfied with the bumpers currently available for purchase. To tell the truth, I find most of them a bit gaudy and bulky looking.

I'd like to ask the fine folks here: What attributes would you like to see in a rear bumper? Anything you would incorporate, or leave out? I have my own ideas, but it's nice to have input from others.

I'd like to know your feelings and thoughts on a few specific items at least... would one swing out be more desirable, or do you think a dual setup might be more efficient?

Would a tool box or some sort of storage, maybe on the sides, be too much?

Do you prefer full plate, or maybe tube?

Any ideas you have will be appreciated. Thanks in advance for your input!

 

[Runn4est]

I just finished my front bumper, and in a few weeks I plan to start on a rear bumper. I've been reading a lot of threads on here and I see a lot of people are dissatisfied with the bumpers currently available for purchase. To tell the truth, I find most of them a bit gaudy and bulky looking.

I'd like to ask the fine folks here: What attributes would you like to see in a rear bumper? Anything you would incorporate, or leave out? I have my own ideas, but it's nice to have input from others.

I'd like to know your feelings and thoughts on a few specific items at least... would one swing out be more desirable, or do you think a dual setup might be more efficient?

Would a tool box or some sort of storage, maybe on the sides, be too much?

Do you prefer full plate, or maybe tube?

Any ideas you have will be appreciated. Thanks in advance for your input!

I'd like to see low profile, not a big blocky bumper, with clean lines that make sense for the design. Personally, if I I had a swing arm, I'd prefer just one so I didn't have to do 2 arms every time to open the trunk. I like the side step built in, but I think a toolbox would be a little much.

 

[unevolved]

I know saying "this one lol" is kind of a cop out, but the one posted by tellurunner here looks like a really nice design from that picture.

 

[olegrad]

I agree that the Insain Fab bumper is tastefully made. Tire swing and cutouts for additional reverse lights are musts for me if I were to design one.

 

[blackoutt]

^^^ single swing out, hitch, recover points, follows stock line across under hatch, low profile, high clearance, and retains the use of some sections of the rear bumper on the quarters.

 

[Inv4drZm]

My wishlist? For rock crawler/expedition use in mind.
Even with the list of current bumpers on the market, I'll be fabricating my own so I can check all the boxes. The 4x4labs rear weld-together kit would be awesome, but I wouldn't be happy with the body lift gap and making my own will still be cheaper, and more fun.

• High departure angle. I have a 1.5" body lift so I should be able to cut my rear crossmember off and gain tons of clearance.
  
• Receiver tube. To keep my clearance as high as possible, my bumper will probably be just thick enough to house a receiver tube.
  
• Single swing out. I'm not aware of the pros for a double swing out other than they don't take up as much room when opened behind your truck. If anybody has any input for this, please reply.
  -----Curved beefy single swing out to provide clearance to rear hatch and maximize length/minimize rattling potential-----
• Rotopax or jerry can mounts.
  
• Maybe a high-lift mount. Never needed one yet though.
  
• Side sliders on each side to protect the tail lights and body panels from trees.
  
• I will probably make a swing down camp table unless I incorporate something similar into my cargo drawer system.
  
• Use a better latch system than I currently have.
  
• Protected swing out arm, hinge, and latch. I've scraped mine and slammed it down on rock ledges before because it hangs back off the back of the bumper, and would like to either have it protected underneath by the bumper or welded up higher.
  
• Shackle mounts

[MENTION=119029]NinjaOne[/MENTION],
[MENTION=118955]JustinB[/MENTION],
Thanks, edited my post.

 

[NinjaOne]

My wishlist?

[*]Single swing out. I'm not aware of the pros for a double swing out other than they don't take up as much room when opened behind your truck. If anybody has any input for this, please reply.
[/LIST]

My understanding is that it is more for overlanders who could use the space for additional camping shenanigans.

i.e. fold-down tables/chair/cooking areas etc on both sizes. so two people can work. Doesn't 4x4labs also encourage dual arms for weight distribution for the spare?

 

[JustinB]

[*]Single swing out. I'm not aware of the pros for a double swing out other than they don't take up as much room when opened behind your truck. If anybody has any input for this, please reply.

My understanding is that it is more for overlanders who could use the space for additional camping shenanigans.

i.e. fold-down tables/chair/cooking areas etc on both sizes. so two people can work. Doesn't 4x4labs also encourage dual arms for weight distribution for the spare?

4x4 Labs encourages dual arms because the hatch bows outward a bit in the center/is curved, so you can't just put the spindles as close to the tail lights as you want. If you go dual swing can get the arms tighter/put the spindles closer to the tail lights because the arms meet in the middle, versus having to cross the middle. Basically the swing arms won't be perpendicular to the frame, but a few (barely, if at all, noticeable) degrees angled when closed.

Maybe they encourage it for weight too, but it was never mentioned to me. Now that I think about it though, I think it's a valid consideration. With a full size spare and 2 fuel cans (if you go fuel can route) you're talking over 100lbs most likely. Nice to divide that up on two spindles, regardless of how sturdy they may be.

 

[SunPilot]

My wishlist? For rock crawler/expedition use in mind.
Even with the list of current bumpers on the market, I'll be fabricating my own so I can check all the boxes. The 4x4labs rear weld-together kit would be awesome, but I wouldn't be happy with the body lift gap and making my own will still be cheaper, and more fun.

• High departure angle. I have a 1.5" body lift so I should be able to cut my rear crossmember off and gain tons of clearance.
  
• Receiver tube. To keep my clearance as high as possible, my bumper will probably be just thick enough to house a receiver tube.
  
• Single swing out. I'm not aware of the pros for a double swing out other than they don't take up as much room when opened behind your truck. If anybody has any input for this, please reply.
  -----Curved beefy single swing out to provide clearance to rear hatch and maximize length/minimize rattling potential-----
• Rotopax or jerry can mounts.
  
• Maybe a high-lift mount. Never needed one yet though.
  
• Side sliders on each side to protect the tail lights and body panels from trees.
  
• I will probably make a swing down camp table unless I incorporate something similar into my cargo drawer system.
  
• Use a better latch system than I currently have.
  
• Protected swing out arm, hinge, and latch. I've scraped mine and slammed it down on rock ledges before because it hangs back off the back of the bumper, and would like to either have it protected underneath by the bumper or welded up higher.
  
• Shackle mounts

[MENTION=130058]ninja[/MENTION]Once,
[MENTION=118955]JustinB[/MENTION],
Thanks, edited my post.

I like those ideas also. I've been thinking along the same lines. Another feature I will incorporate in my design, since I'm an old guy, is a system to lift the tire up to it's mounting position...I know a lot of people struggle with a heavy tire/wheel trying to get it on and off the mount. I was also looking to mount extra water capacity back there, but I think I will use the spare tire cavity under the truck for a place to mount a water tank since the spare won't fit there any more.

 

[SunPilot]

My understanding is that it is more for overlanders who could use the space for additional camping shenanigans.

i.e. fold-down tables/chair/cooking areas etc on both sizes. so two people can work. Doesn't 4x4labs also encourage dual arms for weight distribution for the spare?

That was my thinking too. I know heavy weight on a long arm puts stress on the arm and mount. Breaking it up would eliminate a lot of it, and give a place for multiple tables, etc. On the other hand, accessing the lift gate requires swinging two arms...give and take in any design!

 

[SunPilot]

4x4 Labs encourages dual arms because the hatch bows outward a bit in the center/is curved, so you can't just put the spindles as close to the tail lights as you want. If you go dual swing can get the arms tighter/put the spindles closer to the tail lights because the arms meet in the middle, versus having to cross the middle. Basically the swing arms won't be perpendicular to the frame, but a few (barely, if at all, noticeable) degrees angled when closed.

Maybe they encourage it for weight too, but it was never mentioned to me. Now that I think about it though, I think it's a valid consideration. With a full size spare and 2 fuel cans (if you go fuel can route) you're talking over 100lbs most likely. Nice to divide that up on two spindles, regardless of how sturdy they may be.

Thanks for pointing that out. I didn't realize there was that much of a curve back there. I can see advantages of tucking the pivots in closer to the body.
Weight was my big concern. 10 gallons of fuel weigh about 60# not including the container and weight of the carrying rack. The tire/wheel combo probably weighs considerably more than that. Splitting it up would relieve stress on the hinges for sure.

 

[dta1984]

I like those ideas also. I've been thinking along the same lines. Another feature I will incorporate in my design, since I'm an old guy, is a system to lift the tire up to it's mounting position...I know a lot of people struggle with a heavy tire/wheel trying to get it on and off the mount. I was also looking to mount extra water capacity back there, but I think I will use the spare tire cavity under the truck for a place to mount a water tank since the spare won't fit there any more.

That would be a cool idea. Kind of hinge the section that holds the tire so it could drop down. Load the tire, then push back up. Then have a stationary point on the bumper with a flange and use a pin to secure? You could use a spring assist or something so you're not lifting the entire weight of the tire to get it back up.

Also to add, a step would be a nice addition to a rear bumper.

 

[SunPilot]

That would be a cool idea. Kind of hinge the section that holds the tire so it could drop down. Load the tire, then push back up. Then have a stationary point on the bumper with a flange and use a pin to secure? You could use a spring assist or something so you're not lifting the entire weight of the tire to get it back up.

Also to add, a step would be a nice addition to a rear bumper.

Actually, my thought about lifting the tire was to use the cable system installed under the truck. I'll just relocate it to the tire carrier somewhere where it could pull the tire up while cranking. Any advantage I can get would help!

 

[alia176]

I don't have much to add to this thread except this one thing. The wheels on my landcruiser is around 95 lbs (tire+rim). So, I built a resting shelf on the tire swingout where open center the wheel rests on right after I pick it up off the ground. Then, I can take my time and rotate it and shove it forward into the lug bolts. Some folks use a 2" hitch receiver tube, others use a round tube, etc. I feel sorry for the folks that has to lift a heavy ass wheel off the ground and stick it on the lug bolts right away.

 

[SunPilot]

I don't have much to add to this thread except this one thing. The wheels on my landcruiser is around 95 lbs (tire+rim). So, I built a resting shelf on the tire swingout where open center the wheel rests on right after I pick it up off the ground. Then, I can take my time and rotate it and shove it forward into the lug bolts. Some folks use a 2" hitch receiver tube, others use a round tube, etc. I feel sorry for the folks that has to lift a heavy ass wheel off the ground and stick it on the lug bolts right away.

That's what my worry is...lifting the spare on and off and getting it lined up. I have no idea how folks get their spare onto a roof rack! I'd get a hernia for sure LOL.:cry2: I'll find a way to incorporate the lift cable onto my tire carrier...stay tuned

 

[alia176]

That's what my worry is...lifting the spare on and off and getting it lined up. I have no idea how folks get their spare onto a roof rack! I'd get a hernia for sure LOL.:cry2: I'll find a way to incorporate the lift cable onto my tire carrier...stay tuned

I'm not sure if it's worth the complications of adding a lift cable but you do whatever saves your back. That is of course a priority.

I have herniation on my discs also and the following method works well for me. Granted, the 4Runner is much lower than my 80 series but I'd often pick up the 80 wheel from the ground and rest it on the bumper. Then I'd grab the wheel at approx 4 and 7 o'clock and move it to the swing out resting shelf. After that it's easy peasy.

In the past I placed a short 2x6 and made a ramp from the ground to the bumper, rolled the wheel up on the bumper then did the steps above for the final stage.

Personally, I despise tire swing outs with a passion and if I could've gotten away with not having one in the 80, I would have. However, 315 75/16s don't fit under the vehicle and it just so happens there is an OEM aux fuel tank that sits under the cargo area now. Would you guys believe that the OEM aux fuel tank (found in 80 series in other countries) is made to accommodate the spare tire? So, a 285 75/16 spare can fit under the OEM aux fuel tank. That amazes me to no end.

It's a shame that our 4Runners don't have a factory aux fuel tank option like my 80 does because that space is perfect for it once you move the spare out of the space.

 

[SunPilot]

I'm not sure if it's worth the complications of adding a lift cable but you do whatever saves your back. That is of course a priority.

I have herniation on my discs also and the following method works well for me. Granted, the 4Runner is much lower than my 80 series but I'd often pick up the 80 wheel from the ground and rest it on the bumper. Then I'd grab the wheel at approx 4 and 7 o'clock and move it to the swing out resting shelf. After that it's easy peasy.

In the past I placed a short 2x6 and made a ramp from the ground to the bumper, rolled the wheel up on the bumper then did the steps above for the final stage.

Personally, I despise tire swing outs with a passion and if I could've gotten away with not having one in the 80, I would have. However, 315 75/16s don't fit under the vehicle and it just so happens there is an OEM aux fuel tank that sits under the cargo area now. Would you guys believe that the OEM aux fuel tank (found in 80 series in other countries) is made to accommodate the spare tire? So, a 285 75/16 spare can fit under the OEM aux fuel tank. That amazes me to no end.

It's a shame that our 4Runners don't have a factory aux fuel tank option like my 80 does because that space is perfect for it once you move the spare out of the space.

I was thinking of installing some sort of tank in the spare tire location to carry extra water when I'm doing overland exploration...

 

[unevolved]

It's a shame that our 4Runners don't have a factory aux fuel tank option like my 80 does because that space is perfect for it once you move the spare out of the space.

Once I get a rear-mounted spare, I'm going to put a tank under there. Maybe gas, maybe water, but I can't handle having all that wasted space.

 

[SunPilot]

Once I get a rear-mounted spare, I'm going to put a tank under there. Maybe gas, maybe water, but I can't handle having all that wasted space.

My thoughts also. That's a lot of unused space, and since it is tucked between the frame rails and low on the truck, it is a perfect place for water or extra fuel. Brings the center of gravity down and a skid plate will help protect it. I'm going with a water tank with an electric pump like found on camp trailers. I like to just open a tap and get water! LOL I'm going to look for a nice ready made plastic tank and if I can't find a suitable tank, I'll probably make one out of stainless steel.