papabear1126
Member
1997 Rear Bumper Replacement, Good Report
I cant say enough how much all the past posts helped.
So yes it matters if you take the time to post good info.
In an effort to payback, I am posting how it turned out well for me and hope it helps someone else.
After reading tons of posts, threads, etc. I finally found yes, there are 3 pieces to a 1997 SR5 4runner rear bumper assembly.
Once center piece, and one for each side. 3 total.
Each usually sold as seperate.
I found a deal, I think, via, ebay with, "autosdepo"
or: search them on ebay auto
I got all 3 pieces US $179.35
$209.63 with shipping to eastern PA.
Other Pros, got the parts in about 4-5 business days.
All parts fit perfect, note, this was an Sr5 without fender flares, you better check, I read in some posts, flares may line up different.???
I wiped down the insides of the new bumpers with acetone, to get off fact coating, used a primer then black rust proof paint coated the insides.
*Be super careful of sharp edges! I had to put on leather gloves and break many edges that where razor sharp with a file, again razor sharp....
Before hand prep, as much as day before!
Use a penetrate like PB Blast, rocks! on all screws and nuts hours before trying to remove anything.
When removing, the only thing busting off was the old nuts on the backface, I think it was a 12mm deep socket only needed, of the old bumper center, The center bumper has threaded studs that seem to break no matter how hard you try to cox them out, but they are common to get so dont sweat a special order.
All you need are four nuts to replace those, see one old one and you will get it.
/ aside from them, all others were fine, cleaned all threads on a wire wheel before re-use, and all screws and nuts had anti sieze applied before reusing.
Prep For Installation, Removing Old First
Removed all old parts, starting with OEM mudflaps, Three behind wheel and one under, 12mm I think, a few are 10mm in the whole job...
then side bumpers,
then top step cover using two peoples one under squeezing the plastic stud ears together to not break them, then the guy above sliding a large screwdriver up under the rubber so as not to break the ears off the rubber steps mounts.
Once that is off you can see the screws from up top on the center section, take them out and center is out of there just watch for the side ones too.
Installation
Cons: Start with the center bumper nuts onto the 4 studs loosely, then
the top screws down, again loose,
Then start mounting the sides, all again loose fit and using anti sieze in all threads.
Note, on the end of the center sections are rubber pieces designed I think to remove vibration/squeeking, etc, clean, re-use.
Notes: Once all old bumper hardware was removed I went over all mounting brackets, found them solid but had rust, I ran a small tool over them to remove all rust, on everything that stayed.
I used a etching primer that kills rust and preps for paint.
Painted using a rust "proof" paint.
THEN starting installing the new parts as mentioned just in reverse.
I suck at writing directions so if you get stuck, you can try to email and I will try to answer what I can, but if less than stupid you will get it seeing it.
sure hope that helps to pay back all the help the rest of you gave me,
Best
I cant say enough how much all the past posts helped.
So yes it matters if you take the time to post good info.
In an effort to payback, I am posting how it turned out well for me and hope it helps someone else.
After reading tons of posts, threads, etc. I finally found yes, there are 3 pieces to a 1997 SR5 4runner rear bumper assembly.
Once center piece, and one for each side. 3 total.
Each usually sold as seperate.
I found a deal, I think, via, ebay with, "autosdepo"
or: search them on ebay auto
I got all 3 pieces US $179.35
$209.63 with shipping to eastern PA.
Other Pros, got the parts in about 4-5 business days.
All parts fit perfect, note, this was an Sr5 without fender flares, you better check, I read in some posts, flares may line up different.???
I wiped down the insides of the new bumpers with acetone, to get off fact coating, used a primer then black rust proof paint coated the insides.
*Be super careful of sharp edges! I had to put on leather gloves and break many edges that where razor sharp with a file, again razor sharp....
Before hand prep, as much as day before!
Use a penetrate like PB Blast, rocks! on all screws and nuts hours before trying to remove anything.
When removing, the only thing busting off was the old nuts on the backface, I think it was a 12mm deep socket only needed, of the old bumper center, The center bumper has threaded studs that seem to break no matter how hard you try to cox them out, but they are common to get so dont sweat a special order.
All you need are four nuts to replace those, see one old one and you will get it.
/ aside from them, all others were fine, cleaned all threads on a wire wheel before re-use, and all screws and nuts had anti sieze applied before reusing.
Prep For Installation, Removing Old First
Removed all old parts, starting with OEM mudflaps, Three behind wheel and one under, 12mm I think, a few are 10mm in the whole job...
then side bumpers,
then top step cover using two peoples one under squeezing the plastic stud ears together to not break them, then the guy above sliding a large screwdriver up under the rubber so as not to break the ears off the rubber steps mounts.
Once that is off you can see the screws from up top on the center section, take them out and center is out of there just watch for the side ones too.
Installation
Cons: Start with the center bumper nuts onto the 4 studs loosely, then
the top screws down, again loose,
Then start mounting the sides, all again loose fit and using anti sieze in all threads.
Note, on the end of the center sections are rubber pieces designed I think to remove vibration/squeeking, etc, clean, re-use.
Notes: Once all old bumper hardware was removed I went over all mounting brackets, found them solid but had rust, I ran a small tool over them to remove all rust, on everything that stayed.
I used a etching primer that kills rust and preps for paint.
Painted using a rust "proof" paint.
THEN starting installing the new parts as mentioned just in reverse.
I suck at writing directions so if you get stuck, you can try to email and I will try to answer what I can, but if less than stupid you will get it seeing it.
sure hope that helps to pay back all the help the rest of you gave me,
Best
