Rear control arm replacements
- Thread starter Gerdo
- Start date
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NateMob
New member
I can understand not going with heims but what about one of the numerous, rebuild able, flex joints? The benefits of a heim with some of the isolation of a bushing. Look at Summit Machine Flex Joints. I know CBI just announced their own flex joint also.
When I built my rear lowers, I saw I could get factory Toyota bushings for about $20 a piece or flex joints that would give me more flex off road for about $35-45 a piece depending on brand. I'm very happy with mine.
When I built my rear lowers, I saw I could get factory Toyota bushings for about $20 a piece or flex joints that would give me more flex off road for about $35-45 a piece depending on brand. I'm very happy with mine.
Have you checked out the Duroflex joints?
Suspension Builders Parts
I'm thinking of going with these as they may let the rear flex a bit more/easier and will also help dampen the vibrations.
Suspension Builders Parts
I'm thinking of going with these as they may let the rear flex a bit more/easier and will also help dampen the vibrations.
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NateMob
New member
This. I put a factory rubber bushing at one end and a Summit Machine Flex Joint at the other to keep the stress down on the factory bushing, hoping in turn it will last longer. I can 100% say that the factory bushings on both ends do limit articulation. I noticed immediately that my rear axle drooped out and stuffed easier and further as soon as i swapped my new links in.
Gerdo
New member
What size SMF joints did you use?
I'm guessing that the uppers and lowers are different sizes?
(I haven't pulled my links out to measure them yet)
NateMob
New member
The "Medium" joints are the perfect width for the upper and lower mounts, they also have the correct I.D. for the factory bolts to keep any slop to a minimum. I didnt go with adjustable, i didnt see the need to. My uppers are adjustable so i corrected my pinion angle with them only.
19963.4lsr5
New member
I have a thread for when I did mine. It's titled "rear upper and lower arm bushings"
The end result is you can buy both the uppers and lowers new on amazon and look good and fit perfect. And the cost of the complete arm are not much more than buying the bushings.
The end result is you can buy both the uppers and lowers new on amazon and look good and fit perfect. And the cost of the complete arm are not much more than buying the bushings.
Gerdo
New member
Found the thread. Thanks http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/151490-rear-upper-lower-arms-bushings-2.html
I would like to stay away from rubber.
The problem is that the rubber is great for a road car that the suspension moves a few inches. Wheeling, from full compression to full droop probably has about 45* of swing (of the control arms). This major twisting tends to tear the rubber loose from the steel. Poly or flex joints are free spinning.
I would like to stay away from rubber.
The problem is that the rubber is great for a road car that the suspension moves a few inches. Wheeling, from full compression to full droop probably has about 45* of swing (of the control arms). This major twisting tends to tear the rubber loose from the steel. Poly or flex joints are free spinning.
dirtbike250x
New member
What are the negatives to using Heim joints on the rear links?
Gerdo
New member
They get noisy and loose with daily driving.
NateMob
New member
Just to expound on this a bit, the good thing about most Flex type joints in addition to being rebuildable, they can be adjusted and tightened as the race inside wears from use. After running mine for the initial couple months and several wheeling trips i pulled my lowers and tightened the preload down just a bit more to keep them nice and tight and noise free. Here's SM's page where you can see what and how they go together.
Summit Machine - Products and Custom Parts
19963.4lsr5
New member
I remember back in the day rubber was preferred over Polly because the rubber gave more and allowed more articulation.
And the only Heim joints worth using were ones with grease zircs. And they still didn't last long.
And the only Heim joints worth using were ones with grease zircs. And they still didn't last long.
cj80cruiser
Senior Member
I started a thread about those metalcloak duroflex joints last year but I didn't know what size I would need at the time. They appear to work great if the guys at metalcloak are giving a true evaluation of the product in their demo.
Once I get a welder and get comfortable with it, I'll be getting those joints and building new arms for the rear. I'll start a new thread when that happens.
cj80cruiser
Senior Member
Maybe someone will have more info on this one aspect inparticular of removing those rear arms.
I noticed that either the rear arm bolts or nuts had teeth which are there to ensure the nuts or bolts don't back out from vibration. (I could be wrong and be thinking of the panhard bar) These can get worn out if rusty and if you turn the end that has the teeth instead of the smooth end.
I plan to spend a few more dollars on new hardware.
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Gerdo
New member
The prices on the Whiteline are not bad. The $80 for shipping a pound of poly is. They come from Australia.
