phattyduck
Elite Member
Yes, you are overthinking. I bought a paper gasket, then saw the condition of the mounting surfaces (on a rust free California truck) and just went with RTV only.
-Charlie
Rear Diff FIPG or paper?
- Thread starter weekendclimber
- Start date
-Charlie
JZiggy
Senior Member
Somewhat over 6' but thanks for noticing 
I'll amend my comment: paper gasket plus sealant would be my last choice. Gone are the days of "gasket dressing." Paper gasket alone would be my second-to-last.
If you really want to overthink things, upgrade your studs to 10.9 while you've got it apart :angel:
I'll amend my comment: paper gasket plus sealant would be my last choice. Gone are the days of "gasket dressing." Paper gasket alone would be my second-to-last.
If you really want to overthink things, upgrade your studs to 10.9 while you've got it apart :angel:
This is a good explanation. You've changed my mind on this. Since I've already ordered the paper gasket, I may just FIPG the housing side and stick the gasket on that and FIPG the 3rd member side and squish them together. Any thoughts on whether this would be better/worse? Maybe I'm overthinking this?
I watched you man handle that sucker in there on [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION]'s video. What are you, about 6'0"? I can probably Hodor that in there tooray2:
Have you ever been a motivational speaker? :director:
Sticking FIPG on paper/other material is typically a no-no. Personally I think its fine and besides that why is a paper (which isn't likely) cork/rubber a controlled leak? The gasket seals due to compression forces and unless you have significant variance in the surface it shouldn't matter anyways. I've now twice gasketed my automatic transmission pan without an issue. (Had to drop the pan to get my dipstick out)
I've FIPGed a few oil pans and valve covers before. I'm not a fan of the stuff frankly. Its a) messy, b) impossible to measure the "proper" height, c) you really need to let it cure.
I have used on my job and on my vehicles permatex formagasket ..
a black product that does not harden .. sticky and you can remove the cover and most times re use the paper gasket.
IMO never use any RTV that stuff will harden and Leak oil/lube in the diff breaks it down then small leaks.
why does it break down because it takes 24 hrs to cure perhaps 72hrs ..
I have used the formagasket on oil pans/front block covers / intake manifolds good product..
never used that toyota sealer perhaps permatex ..
a black product that does not harden .. sticky and you can remove the cover and most times re use the paper gasket.
IMO never use any RTV that stuff will harden and Leak oil/lube in the diff breaks it down then small leaks.
why does it break down because it takes 24 hrs to cure perhaps 72hrs ..
I have used the formagasket on oil pans/front block covers / intake manifolds good product..
never used that toyota sealer perhaps permatex ..
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weekendclimber
New member
Wait!? What!?
theesotericone
New member
It called a diff stud eliminator kit. Or you can just go buy M8 x 1.25 x 40 panhead with hex screws. The factory diff uses studs. They are weak and can also back out of the housing. Replacing them with pan head screws means there is no way for them to back out of the housing. This is what I did:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/242884-theesotericones-trails-bs-thread-24.html#post2975257
JZiggy
Senior Member
Yep, here's my install which shows the same thing
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3137845-post175.html
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3137845-post175.html
weekendclimber
New member
Okay, screw both of you for adding to my list of things to do this weekend :lol:. This and then the video [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] posted yesterday with the new rear bearing/seal/tone ring puller have me excited about wrenching on the old lady this weekend.
Do the factory studs thread into the housing? It's hard to tell from both your (@%1; and [MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION]) posts. Probably going to get these:
M8-1.25 x 40mm Button Head Hex Socket Cap Screws, 10.9 Grade Alloy Steel, Black Oxide Finish
JZiggy
Senior Member
Factory studs thread in, yes. Use two jam nuts to remove.
I suggest looking for zinc plated fasteners. Black oxide is not really for long term outside use (I don’t think anyway).
thegipper
New member
Plan on some of those studs backing out, I want to say about a 1/3 of mine did. No biggie, I just used them like a bolt and tightened them back down to spec once I had the 3rd member back in. Here in the rust belt, the nut gets rusted in place essentially making the stud a bolt. The torque spec is pretty low if I remember correctly.
PS. If it isn't obvious yet, the 3rd member is heavy AF. I'm not a small guy at all (6'3 270lb) and I had to bench press that pig back in place. I tried using a jack but could never get it to line up correctly so I just had to man handle it.
PS. If it isn't obvious yet, the 3rd member is heavy AF. I'm not a small guy at all (6'3 270lb) and I had to bench press that pig back in place. I tried using a jack but could never get it to line up correctly so I just had to man handle it.
weekendclimber
New member
6'4" 250lbs pig myself :boxer:
theesotericone
New member
The factory stud is threaded in. You just pull those and put the new pan heads in from the back side. Chase the holes a few times then thread them. Once they are close to set drop some red loctite on the threads and tighten them up. It's kind of a slow process using an allen key in the axle housing. Just crank them all tight and you'll be all set.
Black Oxide isn't a great rust prevention but it does work fine for this application. If you look at all the over-priced kits they all use black oxide pan heads. I looked for plated bolts and couldn't find any local. I used black oxide and a year later there is zero rust on them.
weekendclimber
New member
Got the new studs in yesterday and am wondering: [MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION] in [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION]'s video puts the FIPG on the mating surface of the pumpkin. Does it really matter if you were to put it on the mating surface of the housing instead? My instinct is no, but my instincts usually suck as a DIYer. Seems that would limit the likelihood of disturbing the application of the FIPG while manuevering the pumpkin in place.
Your better laying the silicone on the axle housing rather then the 3rd member.
weekendclimber
New member
That's my thought as well. Not that there is anything wrong with the way [MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION] did it. Just thinking it might be less prone to getting messed up in the process of insertion.
First time I put my 3rd member in. I put the silicone on the 3rd member. When I went to put it on my chest. It rubbed a little bit of. Then trying to handle it was hard because your fingers tend to rub it a little. Second and 3rd time I did. I put the silicone on the axle housing. And it was much much easier. Personal preference.
