JZiggy's "Grown Up" 4Runner Build
- Thread starter JZiggy
- Start date
JZiggy
Senior Member
Thanks hab!
Here's a tip for the manual-hub-equipped (looking at you [MENTION=5345]habanero[/MENTION] and [MENTION=97483]Chuckles89[/MENTION]): Toyota wants $4 a piece for the hub dial o-ring (technically an x-ring) but you can get the right size from McMaster-Carr. $8 got me a pack of 25, so if anyone needs a pair of them let me know and I'll pop them in an envelope for you.
Old on left, new on right.
Installed with a bit of silicone grease
The McMaster baggie
I need to post a correction about this old post. I've never been happy with the torque required to turn the dial faces. I chalked this up to the o-ring being fresh but on a hunch I bought a new pair of rings from Toyota (almost $5 each, ouch). Turns out the Toyota o-rings are a 5-point star cross section rather than an x-ring. This means that only one sealing lip is actually dragging against the dial face. With these new o-rings the torque feels perfectly normal.
These x-rings still work and seal fine, they just make the dial harder to turn. If that doesn't bug you then they are a cheaper option.
[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] Let's replace those o-rings I gave you that are hard to turn with some OEM ones!
infamousRNR
Senior Member
There is some good tech here Jordan. Love your attention to detail and clean installs
JZiggy
Senior Member
Thanks my friend, I appreciate the kind words!
Tyler James Inc
Senior Member
I love checking in on your thread. So much good stuff in here man [emoji1598]
And yes- the tab on the '01/02 cabin vent with the added hole is for the OEM trailer wiring to secure to-
Keep up the great work!
And yes- the tab on the '01/02 cabin vent with the added hole is for the OEM trailer wiring to secure to-
Keep up the great work!
Forgot to mention, I also installed my [MENTION=89792]bhicks[/MENTION] 3D printed rear cupholders. Man these things rock! I've had the backseat full of passengers a few times and they love them too.
Update: More than 6 months in and this is still one of my favorite mods!
Hate to revive this from the dead, but do people with these cupholders just forgo use of that rear ash tray? Is it at all accessible after the install?
JZiggy
Senior Member
You can still access the ashtray from the back seats. I've since deleted it to install an extra 12V plug in that spot.
Chuckles89
New member
Good to know. I've been having to use pliers on mine since I installed the new O-rings. I'll order some yota ones when I get parts here soon.
JZiggy
Senior Member
Sorry about that man! You know, I had the aftermarket rings in mine for a while and they were stiff but still workable. I installed a set in someone else’s and it was much harder to turn, which is what got me wondering.
mtbtim
Elite Member
Sounds good. When I get back home we'll do it. Alison and I are in Hood River, OR. We're headed to Coer D'Alene, ID today.
JZiggy
Senior Member
3RZ Oil cooler and oil filter base overhaul writeup:
One of the projects on my to-do list was to replace the o-rings in the oil cooler and filer mounting base on the side of my 3RZ. There are a number of writeups on replacing the two main mounting o-rings but I wanted to go a little deeper and replace the seal between the base and the oil cooler as well.
Started by draining oil and coolant, including coolant from the block, and removing the oil filter. Took off the intake tube and the heat shield on my OEM header (excuse the ceramic paint flaking off -- didn't stick well I guess).
Here's how the base mounts to the block. The oil cooler is not shown in this image. Note the torque spec for the two bolts and single nut (12mm head) are 21 ft-lb
This parts image shows the whole thing. I'll be replacing the two mounting o-rings (labelled as PNC 15691 and 15194A) and the o-rings between the base and the oil cooler (15785 and 90301-61004) along with the two coolant hoses.
Here's the subject of our dissection:
Removed, cleaned up, in the vise ready for disassemblage. Be ready for a half cup of oil and coolant to come out.
No torque spec was provided for the center bolt so I just marked its position to reinstall the same way. This takes a 30mm socket.
Came out easy, maybe 40 ft-lb or so. Remove the little 10mm headed bolt shown there too.
Inside we see the two o-rings we need to replace.
On the cooler itself, you can see these o-rings are tucked partly under some little sheet metal tabs.
Armed with a pick they both came out without too much fight. The large o-ring was brittle and came out in a bunch of pieces. I cleaned up the mounting faces with alcohol and a toothbrush.
The new o-rings tucked back in easily and securely
Put the oil cooler back on the base and torque the center bolt down to where it was before, reinstall the 10mm bolt
At this point I installed the new hoses in the same orientation as the old ones
Now we turn our attention to the mounting base. There's a molded o-ring that needs to be picked out. It was flat and brittle, definitely ready to leak. Replace with the new one
The hole in the base goes onto the little tube sticking out of the block. This tube has an o-ring on its outer diameter we need to replace. The parts diagram shows it well but it was hard to get a picture. Just take it off with a pick, lube the new o-ring with clean engine oil, and fit it back into place.
Pop the whole assembly back onto the block. It's not too hard because one of the fasteners is a stud so it slides on where it needs to go. Torque the nut and two bolts (one is very long) to 21 ft-lb. Install the two coolant lines with their spring clips.
Install a new oil filter, fill up the oil and coolant, reinstall heat shield and intake, then fire it up and check for leaks!
:tea:
One of the projects on my to-do list was to replace the o-rings in the oil cooler and filer mounting base on the side of my 3RZ. There are a number of writeups on replacing the two main mounting o-rings but I wanted to go a little deeper and replace the seal between the base and the oil cooler as well.
Started by draining oil and coolant, including coolant from the block, and removing the oil filter. Took off the intake tube and the heat shield on my OEM header (excuse the ceramic paint flaking off -- didn't stick well I guess).
Here's how the base mounts to the block. The oil cooler is not shown in this image. Note the torque spec for the two bolts and single nut (12mm head) are 21 ft-lb
This parts image shows the whole thing. I'll be replacing the two mounting o-rings (labelled as PNC 15691 and 15194A) and the o-rings between the base and the oil cooler (15785 and 90301-61004) along with the two coolant hoses.
Here's the subject of our dissection:
Removed, cleaned up, in the vise ready for disassemblage. Be ready for a half cup of oil and coolant to come out.
No torque spec was provided for the center bolt so I just marked its position to reinstall the same way. This takes a 30mm socket.
Came out easy, maybe 40 ft-lb or so. Remove the little 10mm headed bolt shown there too.
Inside we see the two o-rings we need to replace.
On the cooler itself, you can see these o-rings are tucked partly under some little sheet metal tabs.
Armed with a pick they both came out without too much fight. The large o-ring was brittle and came out in a bunch of pieces. I cleaned up the mounting faces with alcohol and a toothbrush.
The new o-rings tucked back in easily and securely
Put the oil cooler back on the base and torque the center bolt down to where it was before, reinstall the 10mm bolt
At this point I installed the new hoses in the same orientation as the old ones
Now we turn our attention to the mounting base. There's a molded o-ring that needs to be picked out. It was flat and brittle, definitely ready to leak. Replace with the new one
The hole in the base goes onto the little tube sticking out of the block. This tube has an o-ring on its outer diameter we need to replace. The parts diagram shows it well but it was hard to get a picture. Just take it off with a pick, lube the new o-ring with clean engine oil, and fit it back into place.
Pop the whole assembly back onto the block. It's not too hard because one of the fasteners is a stud so it slides on where it needs to go. Torque the nut and two bolts (one is very long) to 21 ft-lb. Install the two coolant lines with their spring clips.
Install a new oil filter, fill up the oil and coolant, reinstall heat shield and intake, then fire it up and check for leaks!
:tea:
JZiggy
Senior Member
The diffs are getting regeared to 4.56 ratio. Here they are before heading off to Zuk's house:
Rear diff housing got 10.9 button head screws in place of the studs. Installing them from the backside was easy with a low-profile ratchet and a 5mm bit. These should allow me to use a higher torque value and be impossible to pull out due to the bolt head. They're also coated in a nifty blue-dyed zinc, which supposedly adds HP
Rear diff housing got 10.9 button head screws in place of the studs. Installing them from the backside was easy with a low-profile ratchet and a 5mm bit. These should allow me to use a higher torque value and be impossible to pull out due to the bolt head. They're also coated in a nifty blue-dyed zinc, which supposedly adds HP
JZiggy
Senior Member
While the front diff is out this is a perfect time to reseal the seepy oil pan. The old RTV in there was gray -- not sure if this was a factory install or what since the recommended Toyota FIPG is black in color.
For some reason my FSM did not have any specifics regarding the oil pan change for the 3RZ, only the 5VZ. I managed to find a writeup online that looked like it was from an FSM, attached.
Pan taken off, surfaces cleaned. A plastic scraper, fine bristled brass brush, scrubby pad, and rubbing alcohol got the surfaces nice and shiny. I ran a thread chase through all the holes. I also popped the oil pickup tube off and changed its little gasket -- these 3 fasteners take 13 ft-lb. Fun to see inside the engine's crankcase.
The oil pan got cleaned up. A plastic pick (like a guitar pick) gets the old RTV out of the groove in the oil pan sealing flange nicely. Using only rubbing alcohol and nothing too scratchy kept the paint mostly intact.
I then applied the FIPG as per the Toyota FSM. First you hit the four seams on the bottom of the block where the timing cover and the rear main seal housing sit. Then I ran a 5mm bead around the oil pan flange going around the inside of the holes.
Going with [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] 's recommendation I installed a couple extra studs to aid alignment of the pan. It has to rotate around the engine bay to get up in place since the suction tube stick so far down. It wasn't too hard to get it up into place and onto the studs. Removed the studs, installed fasteners, and slowly tightened them up from the center outward in a few steps up to 9 ft-lb.
Using the FSM method of FIPG application gave just the right amount of squeezage!!
Now it'll sit for a while before getting oil refilled since I'm waiting on other stuff anyway.
Thanks for playing!
For some reason my FSM did not have any specifics regarding the oil pan change for the 3RZ, only the 5VZ. I managed to find a writeup online that looked like it was from an FSM, attached.
Pan taken off, surfaces cleaned. A plastic scraper, fine bristled brass brush, scrubby pad, and rubbing alcohol got the surfaces nice and shiny. I ran a thread chase through all the holes. I also popped the oil pickup tube off and changed its little gasket -- these 3 fasteners take 13 ft-lb. Fun to see inside the engine's crankcase.
The oil pan got cleaned up. A plastic pick (like a guitar pick) gets the old RTV out of the groove in the oil pan sealing flange nicely. Using only rubbing alcohol and nothing too scratchy kept the paint mostly intact.
I then applied the FIPG as per the Toyota FSM. First you hit the four seams on the bottom of the block where the timing cover and the rear main seal housing sit. Then I ran a 5mm bead around the oil pan flange going around the inside of the holes.
Going with [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] 's recommendation I installed a couple extra studs to aid alignment of the pan. It has to rotate around the engine bay to get up in place since the suction tube stick so far down. It wasn't too hard to get it up into place and onto the studs. Removed the studs, installed fasteners, and slowly tightened them up from the center outward in a few steps up to 9 ft-lb.
Using the FSM method of FIPG application gave just the right amount of squeezage!!
Now it'll sit for a while before getting oil refilled since I'm waiting on other stuff anyway.
Thanks for playing!
4Runner4Leon
Senior Member
You do such nice work Jordan! Makes me want to tear off my oil pan (almost), just because 
. Keep it up!
. Keep it up!
JZiggy
Senior Member
The front diff has arrived and is waiting to be installed
ECGS trimmed the TrueTrac while it was out to allow the OEM Tacoma CVs to pop in correctly. Previously they would not go all the way to where the snap ring can seat so I had to cut a relief in a CV axle to fit. Test-fitted and it works perfectly now.
ECGS trimmed the TrueTrac while it was out to allow the OEM Tacoma CVs to pop in correctly. Previously they would not go all the way to where the snap ring can seat so I had to cut a relief in a CV axle to fit. Test-fitted and it works perfectly now.
JZiggy
Senior Member
I've been slowly breaking the new 4.56 gears in. I cobbled together some guidelines from a few sites like ECGS, Marlin, Randy's, etc.
First step was to do a set of <10 mile trips, speed <45 mph, gentle acceleration with plenty of time to cool between them. A couple times I hopped out and felt the rear diff cover after driving -- always warm but never hot, which is a good thing... scorching hot would certainly NOT be! After racking up about 60 miles I drained the Walmart 80W-90 out to check the particle accumulation:
Now for the next 500 miles I'll drive normally but limit highway driving to <50 mile trips. Drain fill afterwards, and possibly repeat.
So far I can report that the truck feels "just right" with 4.56 gearing and 265/70R16 tires. It pulls much more happily in all transmission speeds and the pickup is much improved. Highway RPMs are increased but it's not winding out by any means. If anything it is encouraging me to drive just a bit slower... previously it was a chore to drive 65mph in 5th gear (2500rpm I think) because it wasn't quite in the powerband. I always wanted to go 75mph/5th to get the engine to a happier spot.
The real test will be driving long grades heavily loaded!
First step was to do a set of <10 mile trips, speed <45 mph, gentle acceleration with plenty of time to cool between them. A couple times I hopped out and felt the rear diff cover after driving -- always warm but never hot, which is a good thing... scorching hot would certainly NOT be! After racking up about 60 miles I drained the Walmart 80W-90 out to check the particle accumulation:
Now for the next 500 miles I'll drive normally but limit highway driving to <50 mile trips. Drain fill afterwards, and possibly repeat.
So far I can report that the truck feels "just right" with 4.56 gearing and 265/70R16 tires. It pulls much more happily in all transmission speeds and the pickup is much improved. Highway RPMs are increased but it's not winding out by any means. If anything it is encouraging me to drive just a bit slower... previously it was a chore to drive 65mph in 5th gear (2500rpm I think) because it wasn't quite in the powerband. I always wanted to go 75mph/5th to get the engine to a happier spot.
The real test will be driving long grades heavily loaded!
Similar threads
