Rear Diff Locker

SCRunner12

New member
Ok so I'm in the market for a 3rd gen and I know I want a rear locker. My question is would not having a rear locker make a huge difference when buying? Would you pass on a 4runner if it didn't have the locker?
 
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I originally would have bought one without, but a couple times Ive been stuck, hit the little magic red button and over/off I went. If I was looking for one now it would be a must.
 
I have a stock Limited with the rear locker, and it has allowed me to run quite a few trails that I would have had a very hard time getting up without it. The guy I bought it from didn't even know it was there, so the price wasn't any different. Knowing what it's like having one now, if I was in the market again, I would definitely look a little harder to find one with a rear locker.
 
It depends on how much and how hard you offroad.

I would rather buy one with a locker than put one in later.

I can attest to this. I bought one with a locker, my buddy did not and i have spent the last 2 days trying to retrofit a tacoma elocker into his 4runner and it has been the biggest pita ever! Something that seemed like it should be able to be done in a day or less is turning into a 3 or 4 day process. I would definitely be a little more patient and wait a little longer to find a truck with one already in it cause like someone said earlier, if youre buying from an individual and the truck is stock its highly likely they wont know what they have and the truck will be able to be bought for the same price as one missing it.
 
Yeah I know what you mean about people not knowing what they have. My girlfriends friend has a 00 limited with the locker (pretty much exactly what I want) and when I told her about the locker, she had no clue what I was talking about. I'm looking for a limited 99-00 for the increased chance of a locker and the awd option. But there are some good deals on non locker 4runners that make me tempted. Like this one. Used 1998 Toyota 4runner SR5 V6 For Sale in Sunnyvale CA & the Bay Area | Serving San Jose & Fremont | JT3HN86R1W0137809
 
It depends on how much and how hard you offroad.

I would rather buy one with a locker than put one in later.

I'm at the mall every once in a while and occasionally go for the harder stuff at the costco parking lot.:jk:

I will be trying to go at least once a month and hopefully some snow wheeling during the winters. No serious rock crawling right now, but maybe in the future.
 
Yeah I know what you mean about people not knowing what they have. My girlfriends friend has a 00 limited with the locker (pretty much exactly what I want) and when I told her about the locker, she had no clue what I was talking about. I'm looking for a limited 99-00 for the increased chance of a locker and the awd option. But there are some good deals on non locker 4runners that make me tempted. Like this one. Used 1998 Toyota 4runner SR5 V6 For Sale in Sunnyvale CA & the Bay Area | Serving San Jose & Fremont | JT3HN86R1W0137809

Eh, that's not an amazing deal, just a fair one. Keep looking for a locker.

My lesson for buying is, look everywhere that rust isn't, then be willing to fly there and pick it up. The cost of a one way ticket could easily be less than the price difference based on area/quality.
 
Ya that actually sounds pretty high, i bought my 97 limited with locker with 140k on it for 5700 about a month ago and its an immaculate 1 owner so deals are out there. I looked everywhere for 3 months before i found it so if you wait and look long enough the right truck will pop up.
 
my advice is to not let the locker option make your decision. There are plenty of lockers available for the toyota 8" v6 diff. So it you want one you can put one in. ARB, DETROIT, LOCKRIGHT, AUSSIE LOCKER, YUKON all make a locker that will fit.

I love my Lockright. It was cheap and I installed it myself.

I know some people like to keep it Toyota. So the E locker is the only option for them.
Plus, if you ever did get into rock crawling you will probably find that the Toy design is vulnerable. The locker actuator hangs off the third member.

just my 2C
 
my advice is to not let the locker option make your decision. There are plenty of lockers available for the toyota 8" v6 diff. So it you want one you can put one in. ARB, DETROIT, LOCKRIGHT, AUSSIE LOCKER, YUKON all make a locker that will fit.

I love my Lockright. It was cheap and I installed it myself.

I know some people like to keep it Toyota. So the E locker is the only option for them.
Plus, if you ever did get into rock crawling you will probably find that the Toy design is vulnerable. The locker actuator hangs off the third member.

just my 2C

This is probably documented somewhere here, but how much did your Lockright cost you, and how much would professional install cost (unless DIY install is pretty easy to do right and doesn't take too much time). How much price trade off should he look for?

I have heard that some of the aftermarket lockers are better, is that true? How big a difference is it?
 
The Aussie locker and the Locrite are about $300 to your door. They are part of the "lunchbox" locker group. THey are called this because of their design but also because they say and average person with average tools can do it in about an hour(lunchtime) in their driveway. My Aussie took about 2 hours. The reason they are popular because they just replace the spider gears and you dont touch the Ring and Pinion so no tricky set up. Most other lockers, Detroit, ARB etc replace your carrier and that means having to set your R&P again which should only be done by someone that specializes in differentials(not Joe Mechanic down the street).

Ok back to the OP- There have been a few nice runners already built for sale here on the board recently, some V6 5spd with lockers even. Some are still available and some that just sold might be coming back on the market from what I hear. If you are planning to lift add larger tires then you are probably going to regear at sometime down the road. If this isthe case I wouldn't let the locker deture me from getting a clean Runner without one. Just install an ARB when you regear.
 
Yeah I'm planning on lifting, but gears would be way down the road unless I found a great deal. I wouldn't pass on a non locker if it was a great deal. I'm fine with aftermarket lockers, but I've heard some make a noise when making turns. Which ones do that and which ones don't? It will be my DD and it would drive me crazy.

There have been some nice ones on this forum, but my budget is right around $6500 and I can't really travel to get a car. I have a 3 month at home so I would have to make it there and back in the same day. I'm going to be patient and see if something falls in my lap.
Thanks for the responses guys.
 
This is probably documented somewhere here, but how much did your Lockright cost you, and how much would professional install cost (unless DIY install is pretty easy to do right and doesn't take too much time). How much price trade off should he look for?

I have heard that some of the aftermarket lockers are better, is that true? How big a difference is it?

I got my lockright for right around $250 shipped. Install was easy enough. It will take an afternoon if you have no clue what you doing.... I installed mine without a problem. The nice thing about these lockers is that in an afternoon you can install, or uninstall one. So you can always go back to stock.

As far as an aftermarket locker being better? Yes and no.

Yes because most lockers (Arb, Detroit, Yukon) are full carrier replacements therefore replacing the stock carrier and making your differential substantially stronger. Lockrights and Aussies go inside the stock carrier so there is no strength gain; Hence the <33 or 35 inch tire recommendations.

No as far as drivability. Oem parts are built to make the truck drive as easily as possible. Arb's air locker has the ability to unlock so it will act as an open diff untill locked, just like the E locker.

An auto locker take a little time to get use to. You have to learn how to drive it. It can be done. and once you put a fee thousand miles on the locker you will not even notice it.
 
If it wasnt for the fact the my 3rd gen is also a daily driver and the potenial of driving in black ice conditions, I would not have looked for a 4runner with a selectable elocker. If you are mainly in dry pavement conditions, I would get one without an elocker and install a lunchbox. I have seen them hold up to abuse in an 8in 3rd with 37s. With a lunchbox, you only hear the clicking when going around corners if you are listening for it. Otherwise you wont hear it. Also with a lunchbox it is there when you need it. With a selectable locker, it could be to late by the time you realize that you need to engage or disengage the locker.

ARBs have the potential for air leaks and a huge pain in the A if not installed properly and elockers can be quirky at times and fail electrically. A lunchbox however just flat out works.
 
ARBs have the potential for air leaks and a huge pain in the A if not installed properly and elockers can be quirky at times and fail electrically. A lunchbox however just flat out works.

Yes and no IMO. I have dual ARBs and I do agree that if they aren't installed properly, they can be a total PITA. I made the mistake of having the apes at 4wheelparts install my front locker recently (because they had a great deal on labor going) and it took them 4 tries and a month and a half to finally get it right. The last visit they had to take the entire thing out, plug the hole, drill a new one, and completely re-install a new locker (old one was damaged from messing with it too many times). It was a nightmare so never ever ever ever ever ever ever have 4wheelparts do any kind of labor on your truck whatsoever!!! :) That can all be avoided by going to a well-respected shop to have it done or get them pre-installed inside rebuilt 3rds from eastcoastgearsupply.com (by far the best choice IMO).

Now that my front ARB finally works right, the potential for air leaks is pretty minimal. I've had my rear ARB for almost 2 years now and I've never had any issues with it. I even have a $10 ARB pressure fitting so if I split an air line, I can repair it in literally seconds. That added to the fact that the ARB has a much stronger carrier and it's fully open when not engaged, makes it the best locker out there by far IMO. The elocker would be 2nd only because it's not as strong and like Jason mentioned, the actuator does hang out so it could get snagged. If you drive in snow a lot like I do, I highly recommend a selectable locker over a lunchbox type. When the rear end locks up on packed snow or ice, you will get sideways.
 
Like stated if you drive on hard packed surfaces it's better to have a selectable since the auto lockers can be downright dangerous for the main driver not to mention if somebody else (wife/gf) is driving it who doesn't expect it.
Unless you are a hardcore rock crawler than the OEM locker will be just fine and the failure rate is pretty low since you rarely read about the Toyota locker having issues.

I like keeping it OEM and when you sell it the factory piece makes it an easier sell to a wider buyer market.
 
i swear that is so overrated (the dangerous factor). I can say first hand that it is not crazy slippery or anything. Especially in 4wd. Remember the auto lockers are not spools. Selectable lockers essentially turn into spools when locked. So driving around in the snow with an arb locked or elocker locked is way different than an auto locker. I have to mash the gas to get it to lock and slide, and thats only in 2wd.

Im not arguing with anyone here, i just see all sorts people saying that and i was really nervous until I experienced it for my self

Elockers are good pieces of engineering. the only thing i have heard of is damage by a rock, or water getting into it and frying the motor.

and yes the factory stuff makes people trust it.
 
i swear that is so overrated (the dangerous factor). I can say first hand that it is not crazy slippery or anything. Especially in 4wd. Remember the auto lockers are not spools. Selectable lockers essentially turn into spools when locked. So driving around in the snow with an arb locked or elocker locked is way different than an auto locker. I have to mash the gas to get it to lock and slide, and thats only in 2wd.

Im not arguing with anyone here, i just see all sorts people saying that and i was really nervous until I experienced it for my self

Elockers are good pieces of engineering. the only thing i have heard of is damage by a rock, or water getting into it and frying the motor.

and yes the factory stuff makes people trust it.

I think 90% of the issue is just getting used to it. The other 10% is special circumstances that may or may not affect you. In my neighborhood I have to climb ~600 ft. in elevation in about 1 mile. You have to mash the gas to climb the hills and the roads are as curvy as they get. In those kinds of circumstances, you have to be like 1/2-3/4 throttle so I think it would be a wild ride with the rear locked around hairpins. You should come up and try it next time we get some more snow to see if it's as bad as I believe it would be. It'll give you an excuse to come over and check out my place and we'll do some wheelin while you're up!
 

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