potomacduck
New member
I use the cheap Walmart brand 75-90.
412,000 miles and still going strong.
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412,000 miles and still going strong.
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Rear differential fluid.
- Thread starter kman55
- Start date
Scramble
New member
Thanks for the info guys, that would have threw me for a loop on Sat! I only have small Allen keys, nothing large like the socket bit ones.
Scramble
New member
LOL thanks!
I'm not the smartest guy but I've never asked a lift question. Why? Because it's all here!!!
You learn so much more by reading these threads than just someone giving you an answer. The plus's & minus's of different products & other people's experiences who are smarter than me. I was gonna go all Royal Purple but other people didn't like it in the M/T so Red Line it is!
An Allen Key!? Who would have thought!!! I would have been pissed Sat morn. thinking I could do this whole job with a 10mm or 12mm socket!
I just bought this set. There are cheaper ones but I dont have a 1/4" drive.
This is perfect for 3/8" & 1/2".
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00431HNWA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3M282TOHXJSQI
That's a better set than a 1/4" one.
You might be surprised how tight they can be.
I needed a 1/2" breaker bar to get mine loose.
Whoever last tightened it was a tighter is better kind of person.
TheDurk
Elite Member
That's for sure. I use a new washer and torque exactly to spec and I still have to strain on a 24-inch long 1/2" drive breaker bar to get those things out. Sometimes I even need the cheater because it's hard to get good leverage not on a lift. I even tried anti-seize (sort of silly on a lube plug) and it didn't help. The good news is I've never stripped it, still factory plugs.
If you do the rear, you want a six-sided 24mm socket. I use my impact socket on a breaker bar. Tap it on good with a hammer so you fully engage. If it won't come, tighten 1mm and try again. The plug hex is very shallow and soft and easy to round off.
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Scramble
New member
Thanks, over the last year I've bought a bunch of 1/2" drive stuff. So worth the money. Dewalt Impact driver, 6 pt deep impact sockets, regular sockets & ratchet, 24" breaker bar, makes everything so much easier.
thegipper
New member
The only way I could get mine off was with my 1/2" Milwaukee cordless impact and a 6pt socket. I thought for sure the entire cover was going to rip off but it did break loose without screwing anything up. Since my 4R is just a toy and not my DD, I don't plan on having to open it up ever again. I also like to replace any of those crush washers when applicable.
See Other Postings On This Forum
For those that are interested and want more information on rear differential oil, go to this forum and read my recent postings: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/105426-rear-diff-fluid-question-3.html
My first post was on page 2 so you will have to go back one page.
I hope this may help others with the same issue and question.
For those that are interested and want more information on rear differential oil, go to this forum and read my recent postings: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/105426-rear-diff-fluid-question-3.html
My first post was on page 2 so you will have to go back one page.
I hope this may help others with the same issue and question.
manualdr5
New member
Why does the FSM say to use GL-5? I just bought a 2000 SR5 4x4 with manual and I will be doing a full service soon, thanks!
When I change my rear diff or any gear oil. I just hand tighten it with my 1/2 ratchet. No torque, no breaker bar. It's not necessary in my opinion. Never had any kind of leaks or anything. And always easy to change the fluids. Because I'm not killing my self to loosen the bolts.
Who knows. According to the forums. GL-5 Is bad for our synchros because of what they are made of. So people recommend gl-4 synthetic. I ran gl-5 valvoline for a while and had 0 issues. I changed to gl-4 and could not feel the difference.
phattyduck
Elite Member
The GL-5 warning generally comes from the 'olden days' when GL-5 fluids were much more likely to damage synchros. These days, that's not really the case.
You probably still want to use a GL4 fluid in the trans (not transfer case or diffs though!) just because those fluids often allow for better shifting, etc.
The additives that make a fluid GL5 often make it harder for synchros to work. The additives that make a fluid GL4 often make it worse for wear on hypoid gears. These days the choice is not due to chemical damage, just suitability for the task.
-Charlie
TheDurk
Elite Member
Agree totally, as I usually do with Charlie.
For me, I don't really care. Redline MT-90 is a GL-4 synthetic that shifts smoother than GL-5s I had previously, and I will never use anything else. Sulfur-free is a peace-of-mind bonus.
What do you think about the modern gl-5
Is it possible to buy actual toyota gear oil for our transmission??
manualdr5
New member
I was just recently at the stealership and I enquired about the gear oil for the manual tranny and they brought over the Toyota branded can. The only technical reference it had was 75W and thats it no mention of GL type or anything else. I asked the parts guy about addtional details but he had no clue, no surprise there.
Thanks for the feedback
Thanks for clarifying that was my plan exactly. The thread was getting a little confusing since the topic was on the rear diff and somehow the tranny got involved
The FSM does state GL4 or GL5 (MT-4) but definitely going with GL4 based on everyone's knowledge on the subject.
pluton
Senior Member
My '97 FSM says 75W-90 in front diff (w/ADD) and 5-speed trans and transfer. 80W-90 GL-5 is approved for the rear diff "below -18ºC/0ºF", SAE 90 weight "above -18ºC/0ºF".
I use the 80W-90 in the rear cause that's what is commonly sold and, who knows...I might go to a cold place someday.
Why not put your year and model in your signature, so we wouldn't have to guess?
