rear driveshaft help
- Thread starter baskelh
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
Andy in Pa
New member
I just went through this too. The driveline shop I took mine to couldn't even find the factory parts to fix mine. I talked to a place called Quigley 4x4 near me, and they are building me a new rear driveshaft using commonly available double cardon parts and u-joints. If you want to go this route, I can PM you their contact info. The flanges needed to make this work are available through Neapco. The cost is approx. $450 to go this route. It was a good option for me, because I plan to use my T4r for off road and I can use the worn out factory driveshaft as a spare if needed.
Apparently, another problem is the tubing used to make the factory driveshafts too. Its a metric size, and does not work with the commonly available double cardon parts.
Apparently, another problem is the tubing used to make the factory driveshafts too. Its a metric size, and does not work with the commonly available double cardon parts.
Nelsonmd
New member
JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
What?, What!? Whaaaaat!?? You sure they didn't just do a regular U-joint?
MStudt
official vendor
Regular u-joints won't work on our driver shafts. You can buy replacement u-joints from High Angle and do it yourself. Our u-joints are specific and your standard u-joints won't work.
Last edited:
JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
I thought he was talking about a rear driveshaft U-joint not a double cardan joint. $300 seems very cheap don't you think?
MStudt
official vendor
Not considering it's the dealer. That's your u-joint ($50) and the shop labor. Even still, pretty sure the regular u-joint won't work even if it's not the DC.
MStudt
official vendor
Nelsonmd
New member
Yeah, but reading between your two posts, it sounds like you are saying that to replace the rear u-joint, you can't use a common part, but have to go to highline for a special part. I was saying that you can get the rear u-joint from anywhere (actually I think I got mine from rock-auto, autozone may not carry it). The DC joints you have to go to highline, or somewhere else to get the special one.
In summary...
U-joint - Not Special (Moog, Neapco, Dana, etc.) [this is the single joint at the rear diff]
DC "u-joints" - Special (Matsuba, maybe Koyo) [front end of the DS at the transfer case]
and I also think $300 at a dealer sounds like they quoted a u-joint replacement, not a DC service/replacement.
In summary...
U-joint - Not Special (Moog, Neapco, Dana, etc.) [this is the single joint at the rear diff]
DC "u-joints" - Special (Matsuba, maybe Koyo) [front end of the DS at the transfer case]
and I also think $300 at a dealer sounds like they quoted a u-joint replacement, not a DC service/replacement.
Andy in Pa
New member
That was my first step too. I got a replacement u-joint for the rear one at Autozone too. Think it was $11... quite cheap though. I still had a clunking and vibes though (albeit, A LOT less, as the rear u-joint was quite bad), and found the ball/socket in the DC was bad in mine. The DC u-joints were good, which was the strange part. If the ball/socket in the middle of the DC is bad, it will allow the cage portion of the DC to wobble. I tried sourcing the whole DC joint, but was unsuccessful.
I was able to source the correct flanges to change to 1310 style DC/u-joints through Neapco though....:clap2:
Nelsonmd
New member
Nice. Post up some pictures and a how-to. I know it will be appreciated.
JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
This is interesting to me. I've never dealt with this problem (yet) I'm curious what Toyota does when the DC fails do they replace the whole Drive shaft?
In my first post in this thread I thought doubledew was talking about regular u-joints when the OP was talking about the DC which is why I questioned the price and now ask what Toyota does when they have to fix a bad DC.
In my first post in this thread I thought doubledew was talking about regular u-joints when the OP was talking about the DC which is why I questioned the price and now ask what Toyota does when they have to fix a bad DC.
Andy in Pa
New member
I'll get the part numbers for the Neapco flanges, but unfortunately the tubing size on the factory drive shafts are the wrong size to adapt to the 1310 style of u-joint ears and DC. So no matter what you do, your looking at building a whole new shaft. Or, another possibility is to find something long enough that will work in the T4R (mine measured out to be 45-1/2" long at 3 and 9 o'clock on the flanges) and possibly shorten it to T4R length. Put on the Neapco flanges and your done. I didn't have the time to walk around the junk yard with a tape measure to figure this out.
Andy in Pa
New member
Yes, that was what I was told. I have a Toyota stealership right down the road from me. I wasn't about to spend $600+ on a whole new drive shaft from Toyota when I can get a new custom one built that I can rebuild in my garage for way less than that.
Andy in Pa
New member
Its closer to $450 for a T4R rear shaft, without shipping. I had them quote me as well. If anyone decides to use Tom Woods or Quigley 4x4 for a new rear drive shaft, be prepared to take accurate length measurements so they know just how long to make it.
