Recently read within this forum about the adjusting process for the rear drums after replacing shoes. Once the shoe is dragging on the drum, says to back it off 5 or so clicks. How do you release the automatic adjuster without taking the drum off and rotate the star with the spoon?
Rear Drum Shoe Adjustment
- Thread starter lomita
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BTO
Member
I found it was a lot easier when I removed the wheels and drums first. That way you can see what you are doing. Also if they get too tight you can't just dial them back. A retaining lever must also be depressed. Hard to do that going by screwdriver feel.
I found that when I dialed the brakes open to where the drums were getting hard to put on it came out exactly perfect.
Also, if the brakes aren't auto adjusting then the adjusters need cleaning and lubing any way.
I found that when I dialed the brakes open to where the drums were getting hard to put on it came out exactly perfect.
Also, if the brakes aren't auto adjusting then the adjusters need cleaning and lubing any way.
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TheDurk
Elite Member
The FSM says to leave the adjuster bolt in its shortest position and then let the auto-adjuster do the work. Just pull-up on the e-brake. Worked for me. It wants you to then check the diameters of drum and shoes for a difference of .5mm (i.e. total shoe clearance). But I had cleaned and lubed the whole thing and the drums rotated nicely, but were tight trying to take them off--I called that a win.
If you believe the FSM, backstabbing is only for releasing pressure on the shoes to get the drums off, NOT for adjusting.
If you believe the FSM, backstabbing is only for releasing pressure on the shoes to get the drums off, NOT for adjusting.
What's the technique with pulling up on the e-brake and letting the auto-adjuster work? Do you perform this with the vehicle on the jack stands?
TheDurk
Elite Member
Yup. I was going to post a link to the on-line 2002 4Runner FSM at NCTTORA, but that paragraph and illustration is missing from the page. ??? In my '99 paper FSM, under Rear Drum Brake--Installation, it says:
"Adjust the adjuster length to the shortest possible amount;
Install the drum;
Pull the parking brake lever all the way up until a clicking sound can no longer be heard." [page BR-31, Vol. II, '99 Toyota 4Runner FSM]
The illustration shows the e-brake lever with an up-down arrow and the drum with no wheel in the same frame--so it's pretty obvious you do it while on the stands. That's the way I did it. Obviously, your e-brake and the auto-adjuster have to be working on both sides or it's a non-starter.
Pump the E Brake Handle?
Well, sounds like the adjuster does the work just by exercising the e brake handle up and down until there is no more adjustment possible. Is there any mention of the e brake handle will also tighten up in the process?
Well, sounds like the adjuster does the work just by exercising the e brake handle up and down until there is no more adjustment possible. Is there any mention of the e brake handle will also tighten up in the process?
TheDurk
Elite Member
No, and it won't. The e-brake cable is connected to the bellcrank, and it stays where it is. It's the shoes that move closer to the drum. The handle 'tightness' is a separate adjustment at the handle. (There is a nut you turn until it takes 7-9 clicks to pull the e-brake tight). This is done AFTER you adjust the main brakes (unless you need to play with it to get the adjustment to work in the first place).
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BTO
Member
I disagree. The e-brake does not have to move the shoes as far so for that reason there is lesson slack in it.
TheDurk
Elite Member
To clarify, if the handle nut is correctly adjusted before you back off the adjuster to remove the drum, the adjuster screw takes up all the 'slack' and you end up right back where you started. If something was seized at the bellcrank or inside the drum and now it isn't, then you may see additional slack at the handle because the bellcrank now moves and it wasn't moving before. Yes, there will be less slack compared to the fully backed off adjuster. What I meant was that the shoe adjuster will not tighten up a cable that was slack before opening up the brakes, which is what I thought the question was (not sure about this last).
OK, thanks Durk. I follow your explanation and it makes good sense.
Job Finished
We threw a set of R1Concept front rotors on with Greenstuff6000 EBC pads. That stopped the front end wheel shudder and no more effect was produced at the steering wheel during any braking operations.
For the rear shoes, the adjustment made manually last week, since the wheels spun without significant drag, we just began to exercise the emergency brake as previously directed. It worked perfectly and the e-brake handle did tighten up in the process, hence, no cable adjustment was necessary. With the Valvoline synthetic fluid and the SpeedBleeders, the job is now finished and the vehicle stops like it should.
Thanks again for all the help.
We threw a set of R1Concept front rotors on with Greenstuff6000 EBC pads. That stopped the front end wheel shudder and no more effect was produced at the steering wheel during any braking operations.
For the rear shoes, the adjustment made manually last week, since the wheels spun without significant drag, we just began to exercise the emergency brake as previously directed. It worked perfectly and the e-brake handle did tighten up in the process, hence, no cable adjustment was necessary. With the Valvoline synthetic fluid and the SpeedBleeders, the job is now finished and the vehicle stops like it should.
Thanks again for all the help.
TheDurk
Elite Member
Thanks for the feedback. Too often we never hear back. Glad it worked.
