Rear drums leaking or just dirty?

[TejasRunner01]

Hey everyone, just giving you an update. This started because both rear wheel cylinders were leaking, causing contamination on the shoes which caused sticking. This happened specifically during cold weather. I do have about 1 mm of gear oil that has made its way through the rear inner axle seal on both sides, but it has not made it through the bearing. Would be interesting if this was initially caused by the synthetic diff oil I used or pressure build up in the diff before I did the extended vent mod..

Because my bearings feel very tight with zero play, and nothing is leaking in the drums I am putting off this bearing repair until I find oil in the drums. Could be next week.. could be months or years. Following the old saying, "don't fix it if it isn't broken. And if it isn't broken completely, well let's just fix what we need." (I may or may not of added that last part)

For now I put OEM Toyota shoes on, got my drums resurfaced and refilled diff with non-synthetic oil. My brakes are so smooth and have worked flawlessly in the cold so far. I'll bring you an update in the future to see how I'm doing. Thank you EVERYONE and I hope the info generated here helps other people make their decisions!

Mileage stamp: 186,421

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[mtbtim]

Hey everyone, just giving you an update. This started because both rear wheel cylinders were leaking, causing contamination on the shoes which caused sticking. This happened specifically during cold weather. I do have about 1 mm of gear oil that has made its way through the rear inner axle seal on both sides, but it has not made it through the bearing. Would be interesting if this was initially caused by the synthetic diff oil I used or pressure build up in the diff before I did the extended vent mod..

Because my bearings feel very tight with zero play, and nothing is leaking in the drums I am putting off this bearing repair until I find oil in the drums. Could be next week.. could be months or years. Following the old saying, "don't fix it if it isn't broken. And if it isn't broken completely, well let's just fix what we need." (I may or may not of added that last part)

For now I put OEM Toyota shoes on, got my drums resurfaced and refilled diff with non-synthetic oil. My brakes are so smooth and have worked flawlessly in the cold so far. I'll bring you an update in the future to see how I'm doing. Thank you EVERYONE and I hope the info generated here helps other people make their decisions!

Mileage stamp: 186,421

Sent from my Mi MIX 2S using Tapatalk

Well, you better keep a close eye on it now that you've decided to roll the dice and not do anything about the leaking axle seals. The problem isn't going to get better, it's going to get worse. The only problem with your logic is the problem might get worse in the middle of a long road trip. If you don't plan on driving far distances with your rig, I'd say your choice is ok. But, if you're planning any big trips with this rig, you may very well regret not addressing the issue.

As more gear oil gets past the seal, it will be making it's way into the bearings and washing out the grease and then eventually make it's way into the brakes. As long as the gear oil level doesn't drop down too far, the bearing will be ok because it's now partially be lubricated by the gear oil. If enough grease has washed out and the gear oil drops down far enough to where the bearings aren't receiving ample lubrication, and you go on a long enough drive, your bearings could overheat and implode on you. How do i know this? A guy who came to one of our YouTube Subscriber parties barely made it to my place in San Jose from Auburn. He ended up destroying his passenger side axle. Lucky for him, the place he broke down at had a guy, Me, who knew how to fix it. He was lucky he was able to find an axle at a local PicknPull that day or he would have been stuck.

Good luck!

 

[BoomerBob]

My new bearing removal tool arrived yesterday and it's even more refined that I expected. It no longer has gussets on the plate at the one end of the pipe; just nice clean welds so a bit less weight with the same strength. The fit and finish is top notch. Very pleased with the quality of these tools.

 

[mtbtim]

My new bearing removal tool arrived yesterday and it's even more refined that I expected. It no longer has gussets on the plate at the one end of the pipe; just nice clean welds so a bit less weight with the same strength. The fit and finish is top notch. Very pleased with the quality of these tools.

And, it's more functional and more affordable than what the competitions is selling.

 

[TejasRunner01]

My new bearing removal tool arrived yesterday and it's even more refined that I expected. It no longer has gussets on the plate at the one end of the pipe; just nice clean welds so a bit less weight with the same strength. The fit and finish is top notch. Very pleased with the quality of these tools.

Well, you better keep a close eye on it now that you've decided to roll the dice and not do anything about the leaking axle seals. The problem isn't going to get better, it's going to get worse. The only problem with your logic is the problem might get worse in the middle of a long road trip. If you don't plan on driving far distances with your rig, I'd say your choice is ok. But, if you're planning any big trips with this rig, you may very well regret not addressing the issue.

As more gear oil gets past the seal, it will be making it's way into the bearings and washing out the grease and then eventually make it's way into the brakes. As long as the gear oil level doesn't drop down too far, the bearing will be ok because it's now partially be lubricated by the gear oil. If enough grease has washed out and the gear oil drops down far enough to where the bearings aren't receiving ample lubrication, and you go on a long enough drive, your bearings could overheat and implode on you. How do i know this? A guy who came to one of our YouTube Subscriber parties barely made it to my place in San Jose from Auburn. He ended up destroying his passenger side axle. Lucky for him, the place he broke down at had a guy, Me, who knew how to fix it. He was lucky he was able to find an axle at a local PicknPull that day or he would have been stuck.

Good luck!

Yes I certainly will do, thanks for the reply. I am happy with the current decision I made and will keep a close eye out. You all rock!

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[BoomerBob]

And, it's more functional and more affordable than what the competitions is selling.

Added bonus; it's not as long so easier to ship and easier to store.

 

[BoomerBob]

A little more info to share. The bearing tool worked perfect. Made the job so easy. I work alone 99.9% of the time so lifting the lower cross member to raise and lower it can be a pain so I picked up some aluminum blocks and 4" square plates to take up the space. The blocks can be used flat, sideways, vertical, or stacked along with the 4"x.5" plates.

 

[TejasRunner01]

A little more info to share. The bearing tool worked perfect. Made the job so easy. I work alone 99.9% of the time so lifting the lower cross member to raise and lower it can be a pain so I picked up some aluminum blocks and 4" square plates to take up the space. The blocks can be used flat, sideways, vertical, or stacked along with the 4"x.5" plates.

Hey that's a great idea, where did you pick up the aluminum blocks?

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[BoomerBob]

Hey that's a great idea, where did you pick up the aluminum blocks?

Blocks
4 pc 1" X 2" X 4" long new 6061 solid aluminum plate flat stock bar cnc block | eBay

4x4" plate.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YWBPWDS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Friedom]

Hey guys, thought I could chime in here as I just replaced bearings, seals and shoes on a 98. I really didn't want to buy a $150 tool to put in $50 parts, so I welded one up (which broke), then found this really really really easy solution. 4 36" 3/8 threaded rod, washers nuts and bolts and scrap steel. $15 or less in parts, pressed out both bearings. Hammer out the 4 studs, put the rods through the holes and a washer and nut on the outboard and inboard side. Then hang in the HF 20t press and off it comes! For reassembly I just used a pipe to fit over the axle and hammer in the bearing, retainer, abs ring and other retainer.
Super budget solution. Took me 2 weeks to figure it out all and get one side done. Other side took 3 hours, but I delayed it a little by forgetting the circlip.. don't forget to to the grease test to ensure the seal is sitting in the right spot - then WIPE OFF THE GREASE before final assembly as it actually caused the seal to let some axle fluid by.
I have a fun time lapse GIF of driving the new bearings on but I don't think that's supported here.

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[BoomerBob]

Great ingenuity Friedom! I prefer the Sharpie method to testing the retainer ring position but obviously both ways work.

Unfortunately I didn't get a picture... yet.

 

[TejasRunner01]

Just another update, my truck is doing great in the cold weather now! New rear shoes did the trick!

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[TejasRunner01]

Another update..

Everything works great! No more break binding up, honestly I wish I would have done this sooner!

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[TejasRunner01]

Just another update a year later. Everything is working great still, no binding, the issue has still been solved. Hope this helps someone

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