Rear end lurch

MtnT4R

MtnT4R

New member
ok so I have the highway speed vibration like a lot of owners, but after putting on the OME complete kit from Toytec I started noticing a serious rear end lurch at low speeds(10-20mph) I think it was always there, just became a lot more noticeable after putting on stiffer springs and the firm valved 60028-OME shocks which are WAY too stiff.

The road right outside my driveway was paved this summer so its as smooth as it gets, but driving on it feels like I'm rolling over manhole covers and ripples in the asphalt. I recently greased the driveshaft and replaced the front and rear swaybar links and have never taken a hit on the rear axle at all.

My mech verified that everything is nice and tight, driveshaft balance looks good, etc.
Could this be caused by the panhard being out of line after the 3" lift? I think I've eliminated most everything else...probably. My hunch is whatever it is also causes the highway speed vibration.

Any thoughts?
 
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My first guess is that you have a bushing bad in one of your trailing arms, allowing the pinion angle to change all over the place. Does it get worse on accel/decel? or just at a cruise speed?

I had a high speed vibration from the flange at the transfer case. The staked nut had backed off and allowed it to walk on the highway. Some loctite and a better job staking the nut and no problems since. if you can wiggle that flange up and down, the nut is loose (or the bearing)

bad u-joints? sometimes the best way to do it is lift the truck on a hoist and run it up to "vibration" speed and have someone watch for any signs of wear/damage. just "looking" at things wont reveal much sometimes.
 
Not sure if this is applicable, but I had weird rear end lurching and also a distinct clunk when applying throttle and it turned out to be my rear control arm bushings. The outer sleeves were completely separated from the inners on both sides and I could move the control arms back and forth with my hand.
 
[MENTION=120356]Paperjam[/MENTION], the virbation is there regardless of load, even does it in neutral- not great for the clutch but I checked anyways. I will see if my buddy can throw it on the lift and check the driveshaft while its running.

Thanks for the good input, I finally got around to checking the control arms today, they feel solid but I think they need new bushings at a bare minimum. Once the ol bank account recharges these are getting ordered:

Adjustable Rear DOM UCA's for 96-02 4Runner
 
MtnT4R said:
[MENTION=120356]Paperjam[/MENTION], the virbation is there regardless of load, even does it in neutral- not great for the clutch but I checked anyways. I will see if my buddy can throw it on the lift and check the driveshaft while its running.

Thanks for the good input, I finally got around to checking the control arms today, they feel solid but I think they need new bushings at a bare minimum. Once the ol bank account recharges these are getting ordered:

Adjustable Rear DOM UCA's for 96-02 4Runner
Click to expand...


What about a split belt in one of the tires? You could try rotating them and see if the vibration moves to the front. Split belts can definitely make it feel like you are off roading on dry pavement.
 
Paperjam said:
What about a split belt in one of the tires? You could try rotating them and see if the vibration moves to the front. Split belts can definitely make it feel like you are off roading on dry pavement.
Click to expand...

great suggestion but no dice. brand new toyos(within 10k miles), and when they went on the vibration didnt change...
 
Paperjam said:
My first guess is that you have a bushing bad in one of your trailing arms, allowing the pinion angle to change all over the place.
Click to expand...

You were right on Paperjam, I finally installed Toytec's adjustable UCAs last night and found the bushings were fried on both stock control arms. At the stock setting my pinion angle really isnt that bad, I might adjust them 1/4" to get it back into perfect alignment, but the ride at residential speeds is almost perfect, the lurch is pretty much gone! Still a little vibration at highway speeds, which means I probably need to replace the trailing arms with the Rokmen Trail Series.
Someone get this man a beer :cheers:
 
MtnT4R said:
You were right on Paperjam, I finally installed Toytec's adjustable UCAs last night and found the bushings were fried on both stock control arms. At the stock setting my pinion angle really isnt that bad, I might adjust them 1/4" to get it back into perfect alignment, but the ride at residential speeds is almost perfect, the lurch is pretty much gone! Still a little vibration at highway speeds, which means I probably need to replace the trailing arms with the Rokmen Trail Series.
Someone get this man a beer :cheers:
Click to expand...

Try balancing tires. I was getting a slight vibration from my tires at highway speeds. It didn't seem that bad because it was happening slowly after 40k miles. I had them balanced a few weeks ago and it's like riding on glass now even with M/Ts with 45k miles.
 
Unner said:
Try balancing tires. I was getting a slight vibration from my tires at highway speeds. It didn't seem that bad because it was happening slowly after 40k miles. I had them balanced a few weeks ago and it's like riding on glass now even with M/Ts with 45k miles.
Click to expand...

I'll have my shop check just in case, but I kinda doubt it- I've only got about 13k miles on these. Weights can get thrown pretty much anytime though.

Ended up ordering the trailing arms and sway bar bushings anyways because paypal offers 6month zero interest and no payments on any purchase over $99. Kinda hard to say no to that.
 
MtnT4R said:
You were right on Paperjam, I finally installed Toytec's adjustable UCAs last night and found the bushings were fried on both stock control arms. At the stock setting my pinion angle really isnt that bad, I might adjust them 1/4" to get it back into perfect alignment, but the ride at residential speeds is almost perfect, the lurch is pretty much gone! Still a little vibration at highway speeds, which means I probably need to replace the trailing arms with the Rokmen Trail Series.
Someone get this man a beer :cheers:
Click to expand...

Glad you fixed it. So many people think its caused by panhard bar being angled. That is usually not what causes the lurch. I have found its the rear control arm bushings. Lots of mechanics will say they are good but once you remove them you will noticed how bad the bushings can be.
 
Jumping on this thread because I have the same issue.

Is it worth getting new bushings or should i go ahead and replace the whole upper and lower control arms with new?

Does anyone know the parts for the poly bushings?

4 new OEM arms on ebay run $440 all in. Seems like I could just buy 8 new OEM bushings and have someone press them in for me. OR poly bushings can probably be done myself.

Thoughts?
 
FrankieJoe14 said:
Jumping on this thread because I have the same issue.

Is it worth getting new bushings or should i go ahead and replace the whole upper and lower control arms with new?

Does anyone know the parts for the poly bushings?

4 new OEM arms on ebay run $440 all in. Seems like I could just buy 8 new OEM bushings and have someone press them in for me. OR poly bushings can probably be done myself.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Cannot get OEM bushings for the upper rears. Maybe aftermarket but I don't know.

Lower arms you can.
Part # 48702-35070 $31 each at camelback.
 
hmm $31 x 4 = $144 + shop to press them in

two new arms w bushings = $123 x 2 = $246


Looks like i might just go w the new arms.

Thanks for the info
 
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