Rear latch busted . . . is it tough to replace?

A

Annalea

New member
Hi there . . . total newb here.

I'm a reasonably handy woman, but know better than to jump in without a little research. The rear latch on my 4Runner has been stiff/sticky for a while, and not knowing any better, we used WD-40 to get it to loosen up.

Well, now it's gummed up even more, and I believe it has broken. The piece that actually moves around the metal loop on the body to keep the hatch shut wobbles some, and what looks like a plastic-type covering on it has peeled partly away. It looks like it MIGHT be a simple switch to put a new one in, but I know my 4R well enough to know that few things are as simple as they seem with Toyotas. ;)

I'm thinking that calling around to the salvage yards to find a replacement might be a good idea, as well as a shop I trust nearby (for pricing comparison).

Any experiences anyone can share on this, so I don't have to repeat someone else's mistakes?

Thanks so much!
 
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Thanks so much, bootown. That's exactly the type of info I was looking for. Removing trim has been intimidating for me, because I can't see what I'm doing; your instructions demystify the process. :)

You can bet I'll post more ?'s as I come across them . . . it's rainy season here, and we don't have covered parking for the 4Runner. This has got to be fixed asap. Thanks again!

Anybody else want to chime in? :thumb3:
 
i just did this, myself. i had no luck finding one at a salvage yard, which i thought was a good thing. lol a new one was $70 from the dealer. you'll have to go from the inside. its held on by two nuts on studs and not too difficult, just a tough reach around the window actuator. also, you should roll the window down first so that it will be easier to pull up the weatherstripping with the inside trim, and roll it back up to change the handle.

hope this helps.

good luck!
 
I pulled my handle and plate trim off when i painted it. And it was a pain , i m.f-ed it for some time.

theres two bolts that hold the handle that are almost impossibe to reach because of the white cover for the rear windor gear and motor.

g/luck.
 
Whoops. I thought this was for the handle. Sorry. But I replaced the latch too. It is cable driven and pretty easy to get to. The cable goes from the latch to the opener linkage which is off to the side near the lock so it's not too difficult to access. Sorry for the confusion.
 
When I bought it, my truck was literally full of a fine brown dust, like flour (I removed seats, carpet, panels, etc. and washed it all down). It had jammed up everything, including the rear latch. I took it out and sprayed WD-40 into it until it ran out clear (which was about a minute!). I put it back in and it works fine. You might try some more WD-40, but I did have to take it out and work it to loosen it up. The plastic coating on mine is coming off too but doesn't bother it.

What bootown said is how to get to it. It's pretty easy to do.
 
Thanks, OzarksRunner. I've run WD-40 through it, and it comes out clear . . . I don't know what's gumming it up, but it's stiff stuff.

I'll probably end up getting a new one, as I don't want to go through the trouble of replacing it, and then have the same trouble in a few months. ;)
 
Annalea said:
Thanks, OzarksRunner. I've run WD-40 through it, and it comes out clear . . . I don't know what's gumming it up, but it's stiff stuff.

I'll probably end up getting a new one, as I don't want to go through the trouble of replacing it, and then have the same trouble in a few months. ;)
Click to expand...

I just remembered that the latch you need was $143 from my local dealer. But I got one online through a nationwide salvage parts locator for $50 shipped.
 
I posted a Picasaweb photo set that will walk you through the replacement process step-by-step. Send me a PM for the link.
 
Wow. Talk about helpful. Thanks so much, you two!

(And why a pm, marmotan? Links are allowed in the forums . . . )
 
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Mine is the same....I have been searching for a replacement latch mounting assembly...I tried to get it off a while back, but could not get to it. I then tried to remove the license plate plastic shroud, and broke a couple of pins holding it on...I have stopped to regain some composure...I have to get some of the small plastic pins for replacement before I proceed. I know the latch assembly will be completely broken soon, I'll have to take it all apart then.

Great luck!!
 
Ditto. That would be a great idea.

(And fwiw, one of my personal internet safety practices is not to follow links from near-strangers. As nice as you may be, marmotan, I'm afraid I won't follow a link you provide to images. So, by all means, post it here.)
 
Picasaweb is the fastest writeup method for Picasa users, and I've shared it with several forum members over the last few months. But, I'm happy to transfer it to this thread if it makes it easier on folks. I used PostImage.org for the image hosting. Here goes:

Start by removing this bolt:


gently pry your way around the inside trim panel with a flat, blunt object. you'll hear the anchors pop one by one.


the plastic panel being pulled away from the door:


this is what you will see - the photo is taken right-side up. i also pulled off the rubber strip running along the top of the red metal panel before taking this shot. remove the bolts around the black metal panel. don't mess with any of the electronics.


you'll then have to pop out these nylon anchors.


this wiring assembly is anchored to the sheet metal via this rubber post - give it a yank.


the old latch.


the old latch removed, showing the dusty/corroded latch assembly.


this is the other end of the latch assembly - you have to unplug the wiring harness and undo the cable end from the slotted armature.


new latch on top, old one below.


part number for the new latch for my 1997 runner.


another side-by-side.


by the way, before i started i supported the black metal panel with some string so the wiring didn't get stressed.


great time to clean up the panel!


the new latch bolted in, using the 3 old bolts.


Be sure to give your new latch a little lube once or twice a year.
 
Thank you SO much for taking the time to document & post this process. I think I could have figured it out alright, but now I know exactly what I'm going for, and the stress factor is eliminated. I really appreciate your help.

Now, to finally get myself a replacement . . .
 
I know this thread is a little old but I really need to say thank you to marmotan for the walkthrough. I'm going to have to go through this process soon (I just need the new latch since mine has completely stopped). Do you guys know if you need a 3rd gen latch or would 2nd gen work?

Thanks again!
 
Hey, no thread too old around here! Upon all 4runner owners a busted latch will eventually fall...

I really don't know about 2nd gen latches working for 3rd gens. You could probably ask someone over on the 2nd gen thread who maybe had the same issue. You might also be able to check part numbers on a few parts sites, like toyotapartsbarn.com or something.
 
Sweet thread. I was wondering how I would ever get the electrical wire into the latch, and it's nice to see the electrical wire and the release wire both come with a new latch and hook on higher up.

I've had the rear door apart higher up before because my lock broke and I had to just forget about it and seal the lock hole with silicone paste.

Today my sticky latch just stopped, and I think I need a new one. I wish it would open up so I could actually service the inside of it.
 
Maritimer said:
Sweet thread. I was wondering how I would ever get the electrical wire into the latch, and it's nice to see the electrical wire and the release wire both come with a new latch and hook on higher up.

I've had the rear door apart higher up before because my lock broke and I had to just forget about it and seal the lock hole with silicone paste.

Today my sticky latch just stopped, and I think I need a new one. I wish it would open up so I could actually service the inside of it.
Click to expand...

I agree! But it is nice that the new assembly comes with everything - all you have to do is plug-and-play the new part into the door.

This thread is reminding me that I should go back in and re-lube everything on the inside of the door. Living on a dirt road gums up those moving parts real quick!
 
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