Rear LCA loose bolt?

Mgltacoma

New member
I am not sure what these are called. I know they are not rear lower control arms. Help me out with what they are called.
It this long bar in the rear behind rear axle kinda like stabilizer bar.
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Here is the photo of how loose it is
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The other side of this piece is tight, but not the driver side. Does not seem normal that it is that loose. I tried to tighten it, but the bolt is very tight(yet has big gap between the washer and the head) and the nut looks very different.
 

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That’s called a panhard bar

96 ft lbs for rear lower trailing arms and both ends of panhard bar
59 ft-lb for both ends of upper links
72 for lower shock bolts
 
That’s called a panhard bar

96 ft lbs for rear lower trailing arms and both ends of panhard bar
59 ft-lb for both ends of upper links
72 for lower shock bolts

Thank you. Few months ago I had a shop worked on installing new 3" rear spring to replace my 2" one. Do you think that bar had to come off for that install? Or is it common for panhard bars to come loose? 96 ft lbs means it should be quite tight. Now that thinking about it, the handling of my truck is little off when i turn in the rear. I thought it was adverse effect of having icon 3" rear spring without much weight back there. How dangerous is it to drive it loose.
 
That fastener should be torqued down to the proposer spec. If you don’t have the tools to do it, I’d take it back to the shop ASAP that did the lift and have them torque it to spec. It was probably overlooked.
It might seem right to you, but it’s not to spec and you wouldn’t want that bolt backing out of there.


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That fastener should be torqued down to the proposer spec. If you don’t have the tools to do it, I’d take it back to the shop ASAP that did the lift and have them torque it to spec. It was probably overlooked.
It might seem right to you, but it’s not to spec and you wouldn’t want that bolt backing out of there.


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Or worse. It can oval out the hole in the bracket if its moving around. Then you will have to weld a new bracket on.
 
That fastener should be torqued down to the proposer spec. If you don’t have the tools to do it, I’d take it back to the shop ASAP that did the lift and have them torque it to spec. It was probably overlooked.
It might seem right to you, but it’s not to spec and you wouldn’t want that bolt backing out of there.


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Unfortunately, the shop I had it done is few countries away. I gotto take care of it soon. I have been driving like this for at least 6 months now. Thanks for the advice. I got torque wrench. Does anyone know what size bolt that is?
 
Everything suspension related in the rear is 19 or 17mm. I’m pretty sure that one is 19mm

It was 19mm. For some reason the nut is bigger maybe like 22mm? The other side of panhand bar has exact same 19mm nut and bolt. Not sure why driver side bolt is so much bigger and different color(black). Seems like that shop might have used different size nut than the factory one.
Anyways, I tried to tighten the bolt, but it would not budge. Strange it got like 5mm gap between washer and the bolt, but it would not move.
So not sure because it would not move, should i call it a day or because there is little gap would it cause problem.
 
well, here's the thing....

If you didn't touch this, then the shop that did your shocks did for some unknown reason (panhard bar does not need to be removed to install shocks or springs). I'd say they stripped something, and put that clusterf-ck nut on the backside.

here's a photo of what mine looks like. IIRC, the nut is tackwelded to the bracket itself.

I would imagine that must be clunking over bumps....?
 

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Thanks for taking the time to take picture of your rig. Ya it is strange. It is hard to tell now if it was those guys or the people who installed my stage 2 kit originally. If I lived in the states, would have been very simple to get it fixed. Makes it hard being overseas and knowing little about this kinda stuff. At least this forum has been my goto source for many things.
Lets hope that bolt never comes loose or that gap would not cause long term problem.
 
Thank you. Few months ago I had a shop worked on installing new 3" rear spring to replace my 2" one. Do you think that bar had to come off for that install?

Like someone else said it does not have to come off to install the springs but I did loosen mine up to allow the rear to drop down a little further to get the springs in. Maybe this is what they did. It should tighten back down all of the way with no gap though.
 

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