Rear locker swap advice?

SantaCruzRunner

Senior Member
Well ive been looking around trying to find a good solution to my craving for a rear locker, and was wondering what the best mothod anyone has done to swap in a diff locker was. I was looking at buying a used axel and just swaping the whole thing out all together because buying a new locker is a lot more money, but at the same time its not used. Anyone have some thoughts on what would be best?
 
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I tossed it around a while in my head and I went with an ARB. It was more $$, but it was new. And like the kid said, it's stronger than anything else out there.

I didn't wan't an auto (lunchbox) locker back there because I drive in snow a lot and wanted to control being open or locked.

I didn't have the means to modify my axle housing for an elocker 3rd swap so that was out. And don't forget you still have to wire it all up.

I didn't want to pay $800 or so for a complete axle and have to sell my original axle later. I didn't have the room for it at the time and I didn't want to take a chance with someone's used axle (could have issues like it's bent, leaking, axle seals bad, etc..).

So in the end the ARB was the best choice for me. Plus you'll have on board air if you get the bigger compressor. A rear ARB installed w/ compressor will cost you about $13-1500 (depending on what compressor you go with). I went with the ~$150 small compressor and it works great to run both my lockers. I also chose the small one because I like the idea of having a separate, dedicated compressor for tires and stuff. I think it's best to have the ARB compressor just run the ARB(s) so it doesn't wear out fast.

I did my gears at the same time to save on labor and kill 2 birds with 1 stone. I'd recommend doing the same if you plan to lift or run 33s or bigger.

BTW, you do have to make a small modification to the axle housing to run an ARB - you have to drill a hole for the air line, but it's no big deal.
 
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I'm planning to place an order very soon on my locker, For now I'm only gonna do the rear and I'm definatly going with an air locker such as an ARB just becase of the wheelin I do, but I've been told that the Yukon zip locker is also good, but a bit cheaper... Any thoughts on the yukon or is anybody running this locker?

Also, IMO, I'm running on 35's and with the 4.7 V8, I am not going to worry about regearing. I have all the power I want when I want it and can crawl as slow as I need.
 
Depends on what you plan on doing with the rig in the future. If you plan on sticking with a 32" or so tire and just want a selectable locker, it's probably cheaper to just find a used axle or even a used e-locker 3rd. (although, with the later you will have to modify your stock housing to fit the e-locker 3rd.)

I swapped the rear end from a limited 4runner into my SR5 last summer. I paid $400 for the whole axle and e-locker and I got the wiring harness from the body and the e-locker ECM. If you can find a deal such as I did, it is def the way to go IMO. If you got the cash, save yourself the headache and re-gear and get an ARB all at once.
 
I went the elocker route. Mainly bc I got one from a good friend. It was hub to hub, so just unbolt old, bolt in new and wire it up. I retrofitted my wiring. Got 6 conductor wire free from work and wired in a carling double pole/double throw switch. Axle cost me $500 and sold my old 3rd for $100. Seeing you're in CA, having a full time locker isn't gonna absolutely kill you, but having a selectable locker is nice!!!
 
Well ive been looking around trying to find a good solution to my craving for a rear locker, and was wondering what the best mothod anyone has done to swap in a diff locker was. I was looking at buying a used axel and just swaping the whole thing out all together because buying a new locker is a lot more money, but at the same time its not used. Anyone have some thoughts on what would be best?

I just finished swapping a 4.11 elocker in to my 4Runner. I bought the locker with ~100k for $350 and inherited a spare axle housing from a friend who was nice enough to do the welding work. I notched the axle and drilled and tapped holes for the new studs. A guy on here was parting out his truck so I purchased the elocker switch, ecu, body harness, and diff harness off of him and installed them in my truck. Swapping the body harness is a big project and requires you to drop the gas tank, if you want to save time it is much easier to just run some new wires. A couple of weeks ago I put new seals in the axle, bolted in the 3rd member, and swapped it out for my stock one. I haven't had an opportunity to try it offroad, but it's driving great onroad so far.

I have a spare ecu and switch if you are looking for them, and once I'm sure the axle is working out I'll have a spare housing available to pass on.

- Matt
 

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