Rear Lower Control Arms

[mountain mike]

Looking at getting some new rear LCA's. I have seen the ones Toytec sells but would really like something with a johnny joint vs a rod end. Anyone know of anyone that sells rear lca with johnny joints? I would like them to also be adjustable.

 

[C-RAIG]

I know a few guys on here make them. You could just buy the joints from ballistic and have someone weld them up. I know some great guys in the springs that could build them for you. I think that's next for me after new wheels and tires.

 

[mountain mike]

^^ That's not a bad idea. I am going to look into this.

 

[AZTOY]

Looking at getting some new rear LCA's. I have seen the ones Toytec sells but would really like something with a johnny joint vs a rod end. Anyone know of anyone that sells rear lca with johnny joints? I would like them to also be adjustable.

Just wondering what benefit one would achieve by installing new rear LCAs? Never looked into it, just wondering.

 

[mountain mike]

Just wondering what benefit one would achieve by installing new rear LCAs? Never looked into it, just wondering.

I have been known to bend them in the rocks.

 

[Troybylt]

I have been known to bend them in the rocks.

Woops!

I belive someone on here makes rear LCA's with a gussets welded to each side or like a piece of shedule 40 box with the top cut off slipped over the bottom half of the LCA and welded for the length of the arm to give you some ridgidity and rock sliding and slamming protection.

It may have beem a one off but I hope it gives you ideas, and in the mean time until I have a chance to go home and see where it's saved I want to say it's [MENTION=14772]shootmymime[/MENTION]

 

[shootmymime]

Woops!

I belive someone on here makes rear LCA's with a gussets welded to each side or like a piece of shedule 40 box with the top cut off slipped over the bottom half of the LCA and welded for the length of the arm to give you some ridgidity and rock sliding and slamming protection.

It may have beem a one off but I hope it gives you ideas, and in the mean time until I have a chance to go home and see where it's saved I want to say it's [MENTION=14772]shootmymime[/MENTION]

nope not me, i sell body lifts. try @mstud or [MENTION=92884]snivilous[/MENTION]

 

[snivilous]

nope not me, i sell body lifts. try @mstud or [MENTION=92884]snivilous[/MENTION]

I could do it but I don't get home to CO and the shop until May. [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION]

I like how this thread just keeps tagging people. Do what Craig said though, you can buy all the parts yourself and just find someone with a welder and one of a dozen tools to cut the tube to the right length. Easy peezy

 

[smallfry]

sonoran steel?

 

[JBurt]

I got some from Mstudt. They're awesome, however he is hiking the Appalachian trail and won't be making anymore until he's done in August.

 

[rrueizhig]

I think that's next for me after new wheels and tires.

 

[mountain mike]

So I priced out the jj that I would need and just in joints I would have about $320 for a pair. With fab time and steel for the actual links I am guessing I would be well over $500 for a pair.

So, back to Toytec. I see that they have a set that uses rod ends, for $320. Anyone have any feed back on these? I have heard that rod ends have a tendicy to be noisey. Can anyone comment on if the Toytec ones creek and squeek?

 

[snivilous]

So I priced out the jj that I would need and just in joints I would have about $320 for a pair. With fab time and steel for the actual links I am guessing I would be well over $500 for a pair.

So, back to Toytec. I see that they have a set that uses rod ends, for $320. Anyone have any feed back on these? I have heard that rod ends have a tendicy to be noisey. Can anyone comment on if the Toytec ones creek and squeek?

How did you get that price? I looked at shit from Poly yesterday for doing this and it was $68 for a Johnny joint and $18.50 for bushings, so roughly $180. It'd be under $200 all said and done probably.

Like I said, I would measure everything and buy the joints and metal and then find someone who can weld it. There's a ton of people who would be willing to do it for free, shit I would do it but I'm not back in CO for 5 weeks

 

[TCMach]

Definitely shouldn't be that pricey. I only paid 280 for 8 ballistic joints. I did the weldable joints but still. Still need to get these links built..

 

[mountain mike]

I was on Curry's website. Where are you guys getting your stuff from? Poly? Can you link their site?

 

[snivilous]

I was on Curry's website. Where are you guys getting your stuff from? Poly? Can you link their site?

I've heard way too many horror stories from Ballistic and had minimal issues with Poly and numerous orders. Quick search got this: http://www.polyperformance.com/Forged-Johnny-Joints-reg

 

[mountain mike]

^^ Much better prices that whatever I was looking at. Thank you!!

 

[C-RAIG]

I haven't looked into it too much but you should be fine with a flex joint on one end and a bushing on the other.

 

[MStudt]

Woops!

I belive someone on here makes rear LCA's with a gussets welded to each side or like a piece of shedule 40 box with the top cut off slipped over the bottom half of the LCA and welded for the length of the arm to give you some ridgidity and rock sliding and slamming protection.

It may have beem a one off but I hope it gives you ideas, and in the mean time until I have a chance to go home and see where it's saved I want to say it's [MENTION=14772]shootmymime[/MENTION]

I make all the rear suspension arms for 3rd gens. However I'm hiking until July of so. I'll have a group buy when I get back on everything I make. I only use Summit Machine flex joints and poly bushings for my control arms.

 

[JBurt]

I make all the rear suspension arms for 3rd gens.

And they're awesome.