Rear Passenger Wheel Warm

brianhuntRVA

New member
After driving and setting a bag of cat food by the rear passenger wheel I noticed it was quite warm. Not red hot or anything but definitely warm and the other wheels were not. Could this be the sign of a sticking brake caliper? Or is it possible this is normal since that wheel is close to the exhaust?

I have also noticed a dip in gas mileage recently but I attributed it to my new larger AT tires and winter gas blend.

I replaced that caliper about a year ago. I went to change the pads and rotors and noticed the piston was difficult to get back in. So I replaced it with an AutoZone reman, only place that had it in stock near me at the time.

I need to rotate my tires soon anyway so I'll obviously take a look at the calipers but I just thought I'd ask here and see if there are any other things to be looking for.
 
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I had this same issue on a previous vehicle. Had a caliper freeze, replaced it with a reman and not a month later it too was beginning to stick.
I then bought a new caliper and the problem never came back.

This has since led me to no longer buy reman parts if at all possible.
 
Sound like the caliper freezing. Hopefully there is a warranty on the caliper. I had to replace both my front NAPA calipers a year or so after I bought them; lifetime warranty & fortunately I had the receipt.
If you want to test it, find a safe quiet place, slow to 5 mph or so & put in neutral. If there is no dragging it should coast and eventually smoothly stop. If a brake is dragging, it'll stop sooner (duh) but actually feel like a brake is applied.
 
This could also be the parking brake not releasing or dragging as well. A bad wheel bearing will also get hot but it usually comes with a growling sound.
 
Thanks for the replies.

though the rear wheels are usually warmer than the fronts???
@op is it both rear wheel that are warm or 1?

Just that one. But like I was wondering, that is the side where the exhaust runs out so maybe its related.

This could also be the parking brake not releasing or dragging as well. A bad wheel bearing will also get hot but it usually comes with a growling sound.

The parking brake won't even hold the vehicle on the slightest of a grade when engaged (another thing I need to address) so I doubt its that. No noticeable wheel bearing noise noise.
 
I had my left front brake caliper seize in 2009 at 130,000 km. I could smell something burning under the front of my T4R, and upon investigating found the left front wheel extremely hot to the touch. Brake pads were toast, but rotors were salvageable. Expensive repair.

In 2011 at 141,000 km the right front caliper has seized. This time it was not noticed until I brought my T4R for its regular oil/filter service. My mechanic was checking the tire pressures with it up on the hoist, and he could not turn the rim freely by hand. Again pads had to be replaced, and rotors machined. Expensive repair.

With the power/torque of the V8, early signs of this issue are easily missed. Simply putting the vehicle in drive and stepping off the brake, the vehicle easily creeps ahead. Vehicles with less torque would not creep, leading to easy diagnosis. By the time most if us recognize a problem, the seized caliper has caused damage to pads and rotors.

Now in November 2015 and 169,800 km and the right caliper has seized yet again. The brake pedal when depressed was starting to feel soft and spongy. Regular brake services done - most recently 6 months ago at 161,700 km.
 
Little update on this... I rotated my tires and while I was in there I disassembled the rear brakes. Pads looked fine. Caliper piston went back in on both sides without any issue. I cleaned and greased the bolts that allow the caliper to slide.

After I put the wheels back on, while still in the air, I pushed and pulled on the wheel/tire to see if there was any wheel bearing play. Everything seemed fine there.

After driving to dinner the wheel was not hot. So I'm not really sure what was going on. I will continue to keep an eye on it.

I also adjusted my parking brake while I was in there. With the parking brake not engaged I spun the star wheel until it couldn't get any tighter. Then I backed it off 5 clicks. Now the pedal goes down about 3/4 of the way before I can't push it any further (without excessive force) and it actually does hold the vehicle in neutral on an incline.
 
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Well the problem is back, this time hotter and with an audible squeak at low speeds. So needless to say a new caliper is going on tomorrow along with new pads on both sides. Rotor seems ok.

Advance Auto was cool enough to let me buy a new caliper and give me a full refund when I return the bad one. Much better than pulling the part, taking the wife's car to do the exchange, then coming back to install the new one.
 

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