Rear Shock Relocation?
- Thread starter joshik
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
3rd gens from the factory have inboard mounted shocks, so it makes sense there are aftermarket shock hoops for those trucks.
Anything is possible with a welder and some steel. The question is what problem is it trying to solve.
The only improvements I see from a raised shock mount is more uptravel at the sacrifice of less downtravel, or being able to fit a longer travel shock to get more downtravel and/or uptravel.
You will probably need to swap from a oem-style stem mount shock to a traditional eyelet mounted shock.
Anything is possible with a welder and some steel. The question is what problem is it trying to solve.
The only improvements I see from a raised shock mount is more uptravel at the sacrifice of less downtravel, or being able to fit a longer travel shock to get more downtravel and/or uptravel.
You will probably need to swap from a oem-style stem mount shock to a traditional eyelet mounted shock.
alextmullis
New member
Disregard the fact that my shock lost all its oil but this is the best photo I have of my relocation at this time.
Cool. I was gonna reach out to someone I know that fabs a lot of hotrods and now jeeps.
The reason I want to do it is because I went with the long travel Dobinsons rear and don't like that I need to extend the bump stops by 2". I get why I need to and while I am not "losing" travel, I did lose up travel to gain down travel. I hit my bump stops (duros) often even while street driving when going over mildly aggressive dips even with the rear shocks LSC topped off.
Also, I don't think I'm taking advantage of the full down travel abilities of the LT shock anyways. When I was installing them, I had my 4r on stands and the rear axle at full droop and had my old Bilstein 5160s on. I took the billys off and it's not like the axle drooped any more... so the billys were not limiting my down travel but probably my OEM control arms. Also, when installing the LT shocks, it was a BIG PITA to have to compress the shock to get it in so I'm fairly confident that I'm not taking advantage of the full downtravel abilities of the shock.
So by relocating the upper mount up by about 2", that should alleviate the need for extended bump stops, provide more up travel and take advantage more of the shock's stroke capabilities.
Is my thinking sound?
Disregard the fact that my shock lost all its oil but this is the best photo I have of my relocation at this time.
This is exactly what I was thinking... but I'd have to preserve the way the OEM mounts because I already have a shock. I totally think it could be done! Thx!
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Sounds like you're on the right track. Keep in mind if you go up in tire size you might want more clearance between the tires and body putting you back to where you started.
Another way to gain uptravel is to increase your ride height with taller springs. I'm assuming you have Dobinson springs, not sure on their lift height but if they're only 2" you could try 3" lift springs.
I'm running 285s + 1.25" spacers and most likely won't go bigger.
I did think about longer springs... but I'm already at a decent rake. I do have a little more room to lift on the front Dobs tho.
What I might try first is ditching the Duros as they are 5.25" long and go with the OEM bumps + 2" steel tube. It will be harsher when I do hit, but at least I won't hit it as often and let the shock do its job for longer.
The bump stop is there to first prevent the shock from being over compressed at full bump first and foremost, and can also be used to help with the tire rubbing at full stuff...
When you're on your bump stop, do you still have shock up-travel left? And also do you still have tire clearance to the door/flare? If you still have shock travel left AND you have tire clearance why not look at reducing the amount of bump-stop extension you are using? In this scenario moving your shock mount higher won't keep you from hitting your bump stop any sooner? If the shock is not yet bottomed out it sounds like going through the exercise of moving up the shock mount higher is kind of pointless.
As far as down-travel, if you're still on factory links there is only so much droop you'll get out of them. Going to custom, adjustable rear links with heims on both ends definitely freed up some binding and allowed to get more downtravel on mine.
When you're on your bump stop, do you still have shock up-travel left? And also do you still have tire clearance to the door/flare? If you still have shock travel left AND you have tire clearance why not look at reducing the amount of bump-stop extension you are using? In this scenario moving your shock mount higher won't keep you from hitting your bump stop any sooner? If the shock is not yet bottomed out it sounds like going through the exercise of moving up the shock mount higher is kind of pointless.
As far as down-travel, if you're still on factory links there is only so much droop you'll get out of them. Going to custom, adjustable rear links with heims on both ends definitely freed up some binding and allowed to get more downtravel on mine.