rear springs

uhohh

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I have a 1987 4runner. Just bought it and it is the first one I've owned. It has a body lift and suspension lift and rides like a bulldozer. I thought something was loose under the rear as the smallest bump caused a hard thud and jarred my teeth. I think I found the problem. My rear spring shackle is flat against the frame. Why? How do I fix it?
 

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Stencil painted on the top leaf is FRT (front?) NWOR (northwestoffroad?) 73-750. No part # on their website matches. Could this be a lift where the front spring hanger should have been moved forward?
 

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I'll show my newbie status. What is a zukmod? And will a longer shackle raise the rear even higher? It's a little higher than the front now. And sorry for the pictures, they are correct in my gallery then sideways here. Don't know how to rotate them.
 
Money is definitely an issue. After cleaning the fuel system from sitting with E85 gas (corn is for eating), new fuel pump, sending unit and filter. Just order new hubs, the automatic hubs came apart. I need some cheap fixes or I'll be in over my head quickky.
 
do you have access to a welder or can you weld?

if so I would move the shackle mount on the frame back a few inches.

would require you to cut and remove old mounts grind clean.

order or make a set of these
Spring Hangers / Mounts

weld them in a few inches back probably use some new shackles from the same vendor as linked above (there cheap).

this would be the cheapest route without replacing the springs
 
Looks like somebody tried to add a longer spring without doing the fab work necessary, or maybe they just wanted a LOT of droop. The quick fix is a Zukmod and longer shackles, and yeah, that will lift the rear of the truck more. Otherwise, Brifri has the right idea - revert to stock length springs, or relocate the shackle and pin hangers the way the PO should have done.
 
Thks guys. If I relocate the rear hanger, how would you decide how far to move it? And if need a longer shackle, how do I decide how long? I want a trail ready truck that want break the eggs while returning from the grocery store. No rock crawling or major trail riding in my future.
 
I want a trail ready truck that want break the eggs while returning from the grocery store.

Then you want stock springs, or OME if you're looking for a little lift.

If you decide to work with the springs you've got, you'll have to measure the length before and after the center pin, or maybe NWOR could tell you. If the axle is centered in the wheel well now, then you probably won't need to move the pin hangers, just the shackle hangers (the rear ones). If you reuse your stock shackles, you'll have about the least amount of lift possible with those springs, unless you decide to pull some leaves out anyway. Depending on how much lift you end up with, you may need new longer shocks.
 
I've set mine up it's not hard shoot for around a 45 degree angle at ride height. Which is the truck sitting on its own weight on flat ground. So from where your at now I would guess 3.5, 4 inches. Problem is if you go to far back the frame is less boxed in there so may need some beefing up. Or just don't move as far and use a longer shackle just make more lazy( 45 degrees or less).

It will ride better with a lazy shackle angle. Just right now yours doesn't have any shackle so to say.
 
Thks guys. If I relocate the rear hanger, how would you decide how far to move it? And if need a longer shackle, how do I decide how long? I want a trail ready truck that want break the eggs while returning from the grocery store. No rock crawling or major trail riding in my future.

You'd want to move it back so that the shackle angle is around 45 degrees (or more), referencing your current horizontal position as 0 degrees and straight down as 90 degrees. Moving the frame mounting point from where it is now to where the bottom hanger bolt (spring mounting end) sits against the frame now would be about right.

A longer shackle would prevent the spring end from hitting the frame like it does now, but would be more of a band-aid than a fix.
But a longer shackle in addition to the mount relocation would let you get the most benefit from the longer spring.
But this is all based on the point on the spring where the axle mounts being centered properly in the wheel well.
 
It might help if you can measure the spring from front eye to center pin, and center pin to rear eye measured along the spring, so we have better info on the spring.
 
Thks guys. I'll get some measurements tonight and post it here. I'd trip calling NWOR but it was lunch time and they are closed then. I'm hoping the part number can tell me what needs to be done. Rough ride is an understatement right now.
 
Well my excitement about owning this 1st gen 4runner is waning. Hopefully the pictures are below to show what I'm describing. The total spring length is just over 51". Front spring eye to center pin, about 22 1/4". Center pin to rear about 29 1/4". The wheel is not centered but farther to the rear. One picture shows wheel in reference to wheel weel. The other is trying to show the misaligned bump stop. Looking for replacement springs I guess. My eagerness to own a 1st gen has caused me some work and financial pain. Oh well.... Will truck springs work?
 

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Well my excitement about owning this 1st gen 4runner is waning. Hopefully the pictures are below to show what I'm describing. The total spring length is just over 51". Front spring eye to center pin, about 22 1/4". Center pin to rear about 29 1/4". The wheel is not centered but farther to the rear. One picture shows wheel in reference to wheel weel. The other is trying to show the misaligned bump stop. Looking for replacement springs I guess. My eagerness to own a 1st gen has caused me some work and financial pain. Oh well.... Will truck springs work?

For a given definition of "work" - they're a different length too.

Ok, so here's what you do. It looks like you're not too far off of center, so don't worry about moving the pin hanger in front, just redrill the leaf spring perch on the axle to move it forward an inch or so and call that good. Then whip up a quick extended shackle - unbolt the stock shackles, then jack up by the frame until you reach a 45* angle between the spring eye and the shackle hanger. Then measure that distance, and you'll have a ballpark length for the new shackles. If you're short on fab ability, 4Crawler.com will make you a custom set of shackles, and sell you new greasable hardware to go with.

Anyway, that's how you fix it on a budget. It's going to sit higher in the rear, but it'll buy your tailbone some time to decide if you're going to move the shackle hanger on the frame or go to a different set of springs with less lift. Good luck!
 
New question. If I decide to buy new rear springs, I would like to keep the same ride height. Is there a measurement on the vehicle that would tell me how much suspension lift I currently have? I searched here and most suggestions were from the wheel to the fender. Some said top of wheel others something else. That will not work for me as mine has a body lift also. I thought measuring from spring perch to frame at the bump stop but I don't know what the original measurement was. Any help?
 

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