Rear tow hook

momo.75

momo.75

Registered User
Under the rear driver side of my chassis is a recovery hook/hoop. I have been trying to find a part number for that so i could get another for the passenger side. I have even called my local stealership and the parts guy couldn't find a part number. Does anybody have one they aren't using or at least a part number for this? Thanks in advance.
 
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momo.75 said:
Holy fawk!!....thanks for the link but i am thinking i will pass on it.....lol
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I just got the shackle thar goes in the hirch receiver. I think pulling from the center is usually better, and it seems stronger than the factory tie down things. I think i got it a harbor freight.
 
I'm no expert but those tie down hooks are designed to tie the vehicle down during shipping. They aren't intended to be used for recovery.

There are true recovery hooks you can buy that are rated for recovery, my guess is they are cheaper than the OEM tie down hooks. Trick is to find one that fits existing holes in the frame.
 
momo.75 said:
Holy fawk!!....thanks for the link but i am thinking i will pass on it.....lol
Click to expand...

Hey, I have an extra I could sell you for much cheaper if you're interested. How's $25 shipped? It'll even have the two bolts to hold it to the frame. I took it off my 2007 when I put in an aftermarket tow hitch. Held on to it in case I needed to put it back on but I guess I can part with it. LMK via PM if you're interested. Thanks.
 
If I remember correctly, the only actual recovery hook was on the rear Driver's side of the frame (but that's meant for like a tow truck winching you, not a snatch strap.) The others are for transportation. You're better off using the trailer hitch recovery hook or shackle if your rear is still stock.
 
I was actually looking at getting one for the other side so that i could sandwich/conceal some brackets for some lights. I wouldn't be using them as tow hooks.

jimithing, i appreciate the offer but found another member that wanted to make a trade.

Thanks guys
 
Rear transport hook for 4th gen 4runner

I came upon this thread because I bought a used 2007 SR5 4runner and was deciding on whether to remove the trailer hitch that came with it. I own another 2008 SR5 runner which still has the OEM gear on it. The parts department of my local dealer (they were actually helpful) told me the rear driver side hook is called a "Transport Hook". The original OEM part number for that hook is 5196335110 and went for around 43 dollars. But, apparently Toyota is either not using the original manufacturer or the original manufacturer went our of business, because there is a new part number. The new number for the transport hook is 5109560030 and goes for much more (90 plus dollars). If you google either of these numbers, you will get some hits. From what I have read (so far), these hooks appear to be just as they are named (transport) which meant they likely were used on the boat when shipped. I have no clue about the tow ratings on them. I hope this was helpful to someone.
 
I highly doubt you will be able to apply enough stress/force on that hook and the 2 bolts. The bolts are a Grade 8.8 which has a proof load of 87,000 ft/lbs.
 
I have used that tow point to recover lots of heavy vehicles from lots of mud holes with zero issues. Like someone above said they are grade 8 bolts and it is a solid 3/4" steel rod bolted to a hefty spot on the frame. You could easily hang the truck from it.
 
Removal of the tie-down loop?

I just got a new 2016 TRD pro and am looking to install rear bumper protection bars. Install would require removal of the rear loop (only driver side/left side has the loop in rear). I tried a socket wrench but couldn't get either of the 2 bolts to budge. They look like they could be welded....but can't tell if welded to the frame or to a little spacer bracket between the frame and the loop. Anyway, just want to know if this rear loop is removable/not welded. If not welded, then will break out the torque wrench, but didn't want to do that if it is actually welded in place.
 
niffman said:
I just got a new 2016 TRD pro and am looking to install rear bumper protection bars. Install would require removal of the rear loop (only driver side/left side has the loop in rear). I tried a socket wrench but couldn't get either of the 2 bolts to budge. They look like they could be welded....but can't tell if welded to the frame or to a little spacer bracket between the frame and the loop. Anyway, just want to know if this rear loop is removable/not welded. If not welded, then will break out the torque wrench, but didn't want to do that if it is actually welded in place.
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The nuts are welded to the frame, the bolts are not. You may need to put some muscle into it to bust them loose if you're talking about the ones on the rear frame crossmember.
 
thnx much for that confirmation BlackWorksInc. Will try light tapping with hammer and then leverage with torque wrench.....believe was 17mm socket. Didn't want to torque on it if was welded and end up rounding off the bolt or other. Makes sense that would not be welded if have bolts but wasn't sure since not budging with fair amount of yank with normal socket ratchet.....will break out the torque wrench.
Appreciate the info.
 
niffman said:
thnx much for that confirmation BlackWorksInc. Will try light tapping with hammer and then leverage with torque wrench.....believe was 17mm socket. Didn't want to torque on it if was welded and end up rounding off the bolt or other. Makes sense that would not be welded if have bolts but wasn't sure since not budging with fair amount of yank with normal socket ratchet.....will break out the torque wrench.
Appreciate the info.
Click to expand...

Don't use a torque wrench for loosening stuck bolts! It can affect the calibration, damage the mechanism, or break the wrench. Just use a high quality ratchet, and put a sturdy metal tube over the handle if you need more leverage. A lot of people will use a breaker bar, which holds sockets but doesn't ratchet, but a good ratchet is more useful and about as strong.

Here's a breaker bar:
https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-Extension-Breaker-inches/dp/B00VPPK0E0/
Not very useful because it's only rated for 377 ft-lb, and it doesn't ratchet. There are lots of reports of people breaking breaker bars since they seem to be mostly cheaply made.

Many 1/2 in ratchets can withstand 800+ ft-lb.
Ratchet-Handles Torture Test - Hot Rod Network

I bought this long handle ratchet:
https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-81360-Polish-Handle-Ratchet/dp/B00E3IGMUC/
The long handle makes loosening everything easier, and the ratchet mechanism should be quite strong. I have yet to have any problems even leaning on it with a ~4 foot tube over the end for leverage to loosen the crank pulley bolt.

One time my little 3/8 ratchet skipped trying to loosen a stuck bolt on the steering knuckle (before I owned the 1/2 ratchet). I took it apart, and there was no sign of any damage.
 
m85476585 said:
Don't use a torque wrench for loosening stuck bolts! It can affect the calibration, damage the mechanism, or break the wrench. Just use a high quality ratchet, and put a sturdy metal tube over the handle if you need more leverage. A lot of people will use a breaker bar, which holds sockets but doesn't ratchet, but a good ratchet is more useful and about as strong.

Here's a breaker bar:
https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-Extension-Breaker-inches/dp/B00VPPK0E0/
Not very useful because it's only rated for 377 ft-lb, and it doesn't ratchet. There are lots of reports of people breaking breaker bars since they seem to be mostly cheaply made.

Many 1/2 in ratchets can withstand 800+ ft-lb.
Ratchet-Handles Torture Test - Hot Rod Network

I bought this long handle ratchet:
https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-81360-Polish-Handle-Ratchet/dp/B00E3IGMUC/
The long handle makes loosening everything easier, and the ratchet mechanism should be quite strong. I have yet to have any problems even leaning on it with a ~4 foot tube over the end for leverage to loosen the crank pulley bolt.

One time my little 3/8 ratchet skipped trying to loosen a stuck bolt on the steering knuckle (before I owned the 1/2 ratchet). I took it apart, and there was no sign of any damage.
Click to expand...

But, then how will you know if it was torqued correctly when you take it off? :P

But yeah, like the guy said; don't loosen with a torque wrench, they don't like it... despite having a loosening feature on them. lol
 
niffman said:
thnx much for that confirmation BlackWorksInc. Will try light tapping with hammer and then leverage with torque wrench.....believe was 17mm socket. Didn't want to torque on it if was welded and end up rounding off the bolt or other. Makes sense that would not be welded if have bolts but wasn't sure since not budging with fair amount of yank with normal socket ratchet.....will break out the torque wrench.
Appreciate the info.
Click to expand...

If you have one, try using a 1/2" breaker bar, and if necessary you can slide a pipe over the breaker bar handle for more leverage. Also, using a 6-point socket instead of the standard 12-point, this will lessen the chance of rounding off the bolt head, and they are usually a stronger socket.
 
BlackWorksInc said:
But, then how will you know if it was torqued correctly when you take it off? :P

But yeah, like the guy said; don't loosen with a torque wrench, they don't like it... despite having a loosening feature on them. lol
Click to expand...

Actually my larger torque wrench has no loosening feature because the type of mechanism it uses only works one way (Precision Instruments split beam).

On ones that do have it, think of it as being for reverse threaded fasteners, not loosening normal fasteners.
 
m85476585 said:
Actually my larger torque wrench has no loosening feature because the type of mechanism it uses only works one way (Precision Instruments split beam).

On ones that do have it, think of it as being for reverse threaded fasteners, not loosening normal fasteners.
Click to expand...

That actually makes total sense! I have no idea why that never occurred to me...
 
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