Rear window adjustment

[onemanarmy]

Good mornin,

The rear window on my first gen operates ok, but has some issues. First, the rear key switch does not work. I'm in the process of working through that.

Also, I was rolling it down the other day and noticed a slight clunk that I had not heard before, but the window went down and then back up so i didn't worry. Well yesterday, I noticed that the window won't roll down all of the way anymore. There is about a quarter inch of glass sticking up from the door and that won't allow me to unlock the rear door to open it.

So I investigated further, and the window seems to be off a tooth in the meshed gears inside the door. this is also noticeble when rolling the window up. It seems that the window wants to go up too far.

I opened the tailgate and go to the innards of the window mechanism to look for obvious trouble, but saw none, except for the fact that the window will not fully retract. The window is still firmly seated in the channel that grips the window at the bottom, and i greased everything good.

does anyone have any input on how to adust the two geared arms that move the window....seems to be a bit of work? or just adjustment in general?

Thanks

 

[UteRunner]

Here's what my window was doing:
Clunk half way down/up
No rear switch
Incomplete retraction which would not allow tailgate to unlock.

Culprit: The large, white connector that controls the rear key switch was getting snagged as the window came down. After a few times of this, the connector became unplugged and lodged itself in the bottom on the tailgate stopping the window from fully retracting (about 1/2 inch).

Solution: Zip-tie the hell out of that stupid connector.

Lesson learned: Check the simplest items first.

 

[KidVermicious]

Solution: Zip-tie the hell out of that stupid connector.

Lesson learned: Check the simplest items first.

Zip ties are proof that God loves us and wants us to drive 4Runners.

 

[onemanarmy]

OK, did some more looking. Rolled the window down and opened the door, then rolled the window out so I could get to the connector.

The connections (big white connector) is fine and is properly connected. My interior switch works fine.

Broke out the voltage tester.........tested the 3 blue wires that connect to the rear key switch. 2 of them had 12 volts, 1 had nothing. Tried the key switch while testing with the tester and nothing changed.

These are the 3 blue wires I tested: The one on the left and the center had 12 V. Right wire had nothing.



The connections on the top right and top center had 12V all the time (same as above)



I bought a DPDT switch to bypass the rear key switch, but want to keep the interior switch. Any tips on that?

Still have no idea why the window will not fully retract. About 1/8" of window sticks up past the weatherstrip and makes it hard to unlock.

Any ideas?

 

[wallytoo]

i'd fix the key switch before throwing a dpdt switch there. how's that going to work from the outside? it would allow anyone to open it. it is possible that one of the wires is cracked/broken between the relay and the connector. you'd have to chase that down, or run a long jumper from the relay to the connector to find out if that is in fact the problem.

the inner channel on my window is somewhat rusted and in bad condition. the window "floats" a bit when rolled down/rolling down. sometimes, it leaves about a quarter inch visible. however, if i grab the window as it is being lowered, and shift it to one side or the other, it will retract fully. that will be hard to do without the key switch, unless you have realllllllllllllly long arms and can reach from the center console.

 

[RAD4Runner]

As for the "Clunk" and mechanical issues, Need to inspect mechanics and also the limit switches. Do they send proper signals to relay? (mostly ground).

Regarding voltages at connector for tailgate switch, i suggest you read my post. Check IF operating the tailgate switch provides ground to Up/Down pins of relay.

Also inspect the flex that goes between body and tailgate. Common location of broken wires.

 

[onemanarmy]

still working on this, thanks for the replies

one thing i do want to do is wire up the relay so that the interior switch will work without the key. Hopefully when I get to that I'll be able to investigate further into the inop rear key switch.

Question though, why are 2 of the wires going to the rear key switch showing a constant 12 V at all times, and one shows nothing? Wouldn't there be 12V constant power in one wire and the switch would 'close' the up or down circuit? Is this indicative of a problem?