Rear Window stops running....again.

[mtbfish]

Had truck 3 months, the rear window stopped rolling up. Did my research, found that the controller behind the rear Qrt panel was most likely the issue. Got a used one on Ebay, replaced and was working fine. Now it broke again, rolls down, not up (same problem as before). I put meter to the 2 wires running to the motor, when you raise the window 12.27 vlts to the motor, when you try to lower 0 vlts. Like the controller is dead again. I hear the relays clicking in the controller but no juice when rolling down.
• Does the clicking on the relays indicate that it’s trying to send juice, but something fried?
• Or can something like the wiper switch be preventing it from going down, and if so would the controllers reley “click”? How can you test the switch?
Have a small battery that I use to hot wire the window, the motor seems fine, rolls up and down fast, but when going thru the controller the up motion is slow, like the 12.27 is not enough, is that wiring or the controller. The old controller was also slow, struggling to raise the window.

Was wondering if anyone has had experience with another component that either burnt the controller, or prevented it from lowering the window.

Thanks!! Great Forum and lots of knowledge to be tapped.

Marc

 

[77'911]

You might see if there is power coming out of the switch in the console. It sounds as if there might be a break in the harness somewhere. I had the same issue with our driver's window. Best of luck with it.
regards

 

[fourwd1]

I bet the battery your using is located right at the tailgate, so the wires are maybe a foot long.
The stock wiring is a lot longer, so there is some voltage loss through it. Plus the fact that vehicle wiring is barely adequate because copper wire is $$$$.
A clicking sound means a relay is being energized, but it's hard to say what else is going on.

 

[mtbfish]

thanks for the responses. 911 the center console only works to roll the window up, I tried to figure out the wiring on the switch but failed. It has 5 pins, and don't understand why.. the key in the door worked for both up and down till it failed again. could the center switch affect or burn the controller? anyone know...
Fourwd1, agree with your comments the wiring is long, and probably good on a new vehicle, but after 20 years, corrosion and dirty connections will get the best of it... the weak voltage is not my issue at this time, 0 volts during the down cycle is, I just thought maybe that info would add to understanding what may be going on..