Rear Window won't roll all the way up

[Appalascadian]

I rolled my back window down the other day and when rolling it up, I noticed it was slower than I've ever seen it. When it got about 3/4 the way up, it stopped. If I try to raise it any more, it goes back down to about half way. Does anyone have any information or experience on this issue?
I have searched a bit and found threads about completely non-functioning windows, but nothing that seems to match my issue. I saw one suggestion to lubricate the tracks, which I will try, but I don't have high hopes.

 

[ArthurKotb]

Is the window binding on the rubber seal, the one around the sides and top? That comes out fairly easily. I removed and replaced mine with a new one in about 15 minutes, no sealer/glue, per the parts department. You might try removing it and see if that helps. At least check the rubber as you raise the window, maybe push on the edges and see if the window goes up further.

There are several things that could be the problem; motor dragging, poor ground, poor power connection, binding in the channel, etc.

 

[daprotege5]

lubing the tracks helps, when i replaced my motor was hard going all the way up the first couple times, so i lubbed the track and up and down a couple times and haven't had issues since.

 

[SocalSam]

Toyota window and regulator are super easy to maintain. There are no rivets and there is plenty of room inside door.

 

[MikeinNH67]

You'll have to take the cover off to see what is going on. Probably corrosion or lack of lube. Don't force it or you may blow the cables off.

 

[Appalascadian]

Is the window binding on the rubber seal, the one around the sides and top? That comes out fairly easily. I removed and replaced mine with a new one in about 15 minutes, no sealer/glue, per the parts department. You might try removing it and see if that helps. At least check the rubber as you raise the window, maybe push on the edges and see if the window goes up further.

There are several things that could be the problem; motor dragging, poor ground, poor power connection, binding in the channel, etc.

I'm not sure. I tried using silicone lube last night and didn't get much change. I got maybe another inch out of it and it repeats the whole rolling back down thing. I did take the bottom seal off and had no effect, but that is just the brushes part, really.

 

[ArthurKotb]

I'm not sure. I tried using silicone lube last night and didn't get much change. I got maybe another inch out of it and it repeats the whole rolling back down thing. I did take the bottom seal off and had no effect, but that is just the brushes part, really.

You'll have to open it up then, see what the problem is. I have not opened mine but I understand you remove the cover for the strap and unscrew to remove the strap. Then you use a plastic tool to pop off the cover and slide forward. That gives you access to the insides.

I looked for a video but couldn't find a decent one. This one will show you how to access the area: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=moJ2Qg24mDo

 

[Appalascadian]

You'll have to open it up then, see what the problem is. I have not opened mine but I understand you remove the cover for the strap and unscrew to remove the strap. Then you use a plastic tool to pop off the cover and slide forward. That gives you access to the insides.

I looked for a video but couldn't find a decent one. This one will show you how to access the area: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=moJ2Qg24mDo

Thank you for the link. I (and I assume every one else) have a panel next to my strap, but it just leads to that membrane. Didn't know what to do with that, so I put it on hold for that moment. But now that I see how to take it off, hopefully I can get it going this weekend. A window that wont roll up isn't ideal in the PNW winter.

 

[ArthurKotb]

Thank you for the link. I (and I assume every one else) have a panel next to my strap, but it just leads to that membrane. Didn't know what to do with that, so I put it on hold for that moment. But now that I see how to take it off, hopefully I can get it going this weekend. A window that wont roll up isn't ideal in the PNW winter.

I have 2 kids in Oregon and there's snow predicted for both areas. One has already shoveled twice and more is coming. So no, you don't want a window that won't roll up; not anywhere this time of year, even Florida.

I have not had to get into that area but my latch is acting up, locking when I open the door. I have to get something to pry the latch open again so I can close it. I don't know if it's the mechanism or the power line that feeds it but something is causing it to close the latch as soon as it's opened.

To get to everything you'll have to removed the gray plastic that covers that hatch, then you peel back that craft paper cover. Usually the sticky stuff will let you reseal after you've fixed it, just push it back in place.

I would just leave it alone until warmer weather. You can probably push up on the window while turning the key to the right and help it go up to the top.

Back in the 50-70s the station wagons had roll up windows. Some were electric, some were crank up. None made a good seal. The exhaust pipes would end at or behind the back tire(s) so the exhaust didn't come into the cabin. Seemed like a good idea.

Good luck. Post again when you've made progress

 

[MikeinNH67]

You can probably push up on the window while turning the key to the right and help it go up to the top.

This is what I was thinking if you want to wait until spring. Push the window upwards wearing some rubbery type of glove that grabs then turn the hatch key lock to up. The only issue with this is you might find it totally frozen in the spring.

 

[SocalSam]

I have 2 kids in Oregon and there's snow predicted for both areas. One has already shoveled twice and more is coming. So no, you don't want a window that won't roll up; not anywhere this time of year, even Florida.

I have not had to get into that area but my latch is acting up, locking when I open the door. I have to get something to pry the latch open again so I can close it. I don't know if it's the mechanism or the power line that feeds it but something is causing it to close the latch as soon as it's opened.

To get to everything you'll have to removed the gray plastic that covers that hatch, then you peel back that craft paper cover. Usually the sticky stuff will let you reseal after you've fixed it, just push it back in place.

I would just leave it alone until warmer weather. You can probably push up on the window while turning the key to the right and help it go up to the top.

Back in the 50-70s the station wagons had roll up windows. Some were electric, some were crank up. None made a good seal. The exhaust pipes would end at or behind the back tire(s) so the exhaust didn't come into the cabin. Seemed like a good idea.

Good luck. Post again when you've made progress

Hatch problems are sometimes as easy as reversing the orientation of the catch loop. The side facing the latch wears out and does not release. Reversing the catch presents the clean side to the latch. Problem usually solved.

 

[ArthurKotb]

Hatch problems are sometimes as easy as reversing the orientation of the catch loop. The side facing the latch wears out and does not release. Reversing the catch presents the clean side to the latch. Problem usually solved.

I saw a previous post of yours (I think it was yours) and have it in mind when I get around to looking into my problem, or when it gets impossible to do the work around, whichever is first.

When I press the latch release it opens and then the motor runs again like I closed the hatch and the latch locks. I have to get something, usually a screwdriver, and pry on the latch while pressing the latch open button. It doesn't sound mechanical. It sounds like the sensor thinks I've closed the door, so it latches. I'm thinking it's more electrical but I'm open to suggestions and opinions.

I'm traveling right now so I'm not going to mess with it for fear that it will seize with all my fishing and kayak gear in the cargo area.

 

[SocalSam]

I saw a previous post of yours (I think it was yours) and have it in mind when I get around to looking into my problem, or when it gets impossible to do the work around, whichever is first.

When I press the latch release it opens and then the motor runs again like I closed the hatch and the latch locks. I have to get something, usually a screwdriver, and pry on the latch while pressing the latch open button. It doesn't sound mechanical. It sounds like the sensor thinks I've closed the door, so it latches. I'm thinking it's more electrical but I'm open to suggestions and opinions.

I'm traveling right now so I'm not going to mess with it for fear that it will seize with all my fishing and kayak gear in the cargo area.

That is exactly how my latch behaved. Latch motor would run but not release and then reverse run back into locked position. Catch loop was worn and corroded from 20 years of operation. The opposite side is pristine. Flipped it around, problem solved.

 

[speechless123]

i had this issue a while ago, it ended up being the rubber seal rubbing on the window

 

[Appalascadian]

Good luck. Post again when you've made progress

Well, I drove my wife's car for a bit, since it's been rainy lately, but I seemed to have lucked my way out of the issue. When I went back to it, for some reason the battery had died. Likely from me fiddling with the window without actually starting it. After we jumped me back off, I gave it a go. It went back down, but from the all the way down position, it went all the way up.
I can't say if that actually FIXES the problem for good, but for the season, I need it closed. So, it effectively solves my problem. I'm going to take the win.

 

[Franagesk]

Have you considered checking the rubber seal on the window, as suggested by speechless123, to address the issue with your hatch?

 

[ArthurKotb]

Well, I drove my wife's car for a bit, since it's been rainy lately, but I seemed to have lucked my way out of the issue. When I went back to it, for some reason the battery had died. Likely from me fiddling with the window without actually starting it. After we jumped me back off, I gave it a go. It went back down, but from the all the way down position, it went all the way up.
I can't say if that actually FIXES the problem for good, but for the season, I need it closed. So, it effectively solves my problem. I'm going to take the win.

So you're good for the winter
I don't know how long your T4R sat but there are some parasitic drains on batteries in cars, like the connection to the radio to keep your settings in memory. They can drain a weak battery in a few weeks.

If the window is going up now perhaps you do have a weak battery and maybe a bad alternator that keeps the battery low. You should do some voltage checks on the battery with the engine running and first thing in the day before you start it, to see what the voltages are.

Keep the window up for now and wait for spring to address the issue.