rear window

foonanas

New member
so the wiring has crapped out on my rear window.. Long story.. I will not bore you guys. What I would like to do is just add a button up front tied to the rear window and the key in the back..

I am trying to figure out what kind of button I will need.. thanks for the help.
 
Register to hide this ad
My neighbor had an issue with his runner and the switch not working. I grabbed the wiring diagram for a harness that the 12voltguy.com sells. Instead of buying his harness for $90, I made my own. It cost about $10 or less and can be made in a couple hours.
 

Attachments

  • pic%20sheet.jpg
    pic%20sheet.jpg
    65.1 KB · Views: 7,731
sv: sorry i totally forgot about getting that tailgate piece from you.. I figured out it was not that.. it just quit working all together now.. where did you get the switch?
 
If you want your key and the switch to work you will need the relays. If you do not care about the key then you can just run the power wire to the middle of the switch and two wires from the outer poles on the switch to the window motor.
 
I don't have any part numbers. Just go to your local parts store and get a 30ft roll of 18 ga. wire, 1 3 position switch and two 30a 5 pole relays. Super easy if you're half decent with wiring.
 
Go to a stereo shop or best buy stereo section and ask the installers if you can buy a few of them. They will usually stock dozens of them for stereo or alarm installs. If you were local I would give you a couple, I usually have at least 10 of them in my electrical desk.
 
Just got these in the other day.. Gonna try and make a new harness and wiring for my rear power window. Hopefully the key will work as well. I will post pics and part numbers and total cost when I am done.. The switch fits in pretty decent..
 

Attachments

  • 4runner parts.jpg
    4runner parts.jpg
    18.4 KB · Views: 719
  • 4runner switch.jpg
    4runner switch.jpg
    26.5 KB · Views: 731
my switch has 5 pins on it. based on the following it looks like I may use pins 1, 3, and 5. could you help confirm.

When the switch is in neutral pins 1 & 2 have continuity as well as pins 4 & 5.
When the switch is pressed in the direction the pins are in contact is broken.

Switch is in "Up" position continuity is between 1 & 3. 4 & 5 remain active but 1 & 2 is open.

Switch is in "Down" position continuity is between 5 & 3. 1 & 2 remain active but 4 & 5 is open.
 
It sounds like pin 3 would be your ground, pins 1 and 5 would be your up and down wires going to your relays. I would imagine that pins 2 and 4 would be for extra stuff like lights that show the position of the switch or for one switch working multiple things? I'm not very smart on electrical stuff so I would do a quick google search and be sure that you're using the right pins on the switch. Or... Buy a 3 pole switch.
 
Did this mod and it worked great. I ordered all the parts from Parts Express.com and spent less than $20 for everything. I used their relays, relay sockets and momentary switch. This made everything super easy. Key and switch work and the ignition does not need to be on to use switch.
 
Sweet! Beats the heck out of a over prices $90 harness! I did this to my neighbors 4runner and it works out great!
 
Thankful for the diagram he has posted.. That to me would have been worth the $90!!! I went straight to the Batt instead of the t-tap. I figured the less points of splicing a constant power wire the better. This install took 30-40 minutes.

SV: thanks for pointing me to the website..
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,307
Messages
3,554,050
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top