Reata's Build Thread
- Thread starter Reata
- Start date
Reata
New member
OK, Here we go for the hot lead to the rear 12v outlet.
I decided to go direct from the battery since at some point I will have the dual battery kit from National Luna installed.
First I struggled a little with identifying the best location to make the penetration through the firewall. In front of the passenger seat, there are two penetrations, one is the master harness, so I chose the smaller one. Interestingly enough, it also has the fluid line for the rear wiper washer through it. Anyway, I decided to run my 14ga wire through this one right next to the washer fluid line. Pic here:
[/url][/IMG]
In the cab in the foot well of the passenger side, I removed the edge to the entry at the floor first, then I removed the kick panel, and then the plastic piece below the glove box. Here is the wire coming through the firewall after removing all the pieces:
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I continued running the wire along the trough in the floorboard as seen here:
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[/url][/IMG]
[/url][/IMG]
[/url][/IMG]
[/url][/IMG]
OK, you wil note that I am a little over-zealous with the zip ties. I think the sound they make is some sort of pre-historic mating sound for me.
I decided to go direct from the battery since at some point I will have the dual battery kit from National Luna installed.
First I struggled a little with identifying the best location to make the penetration through the firewall. In front of the passenger seat, there are two penetrations, one is the master harness, so I chose the smaller one. Interestingly enough, it also has the fluid line for the rear wiper washer through it. Anyway, I decided to run my 14ga wire through this one right next to the washer fluid line. Pic here:
In the cab in the foot well of the passenger side, I removed the edge to the entry at the floor first, then I removed the kick panel, and then the plastic piece below the glove box. Here is the wire coming through the firewall after removing all the pieces:
I continued running the wire along the trough in the floorboard as seen here:
OK, you wil note that I am a little over-zealous with the zip ties. I think the sound they make is some sort of pre-historic mating sound for me.
Last edited:
TxCJ3Pilot
New member
Question
I see where you penetrated the firewall and running this hot wire out of a loom . . . What type of circuit protection are you installing inline?
I see where you penetrated the firewall and running this hot wire out of a loom . . . What type of circuit protection are you installing inline?
Reata
New member
Next I went to the other side of the firewall and zipped the wire up over to the battery:
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[/url][/IMG]
[/url][/IMG]
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And then, all the way to the battery.
[/url][/IMG]
It then started to rain like Noah had called in for another flood. So, I wrapped it up and left the connection for later. I did insert a weatherproof fuse in the line about a foot from the battery, shrink wrapped the soldered connections as well. You can kind of see the fuse near the yellow sticker that is on the battery.
[/url][/IMG]
I will need to connect with my good friend Antman as he has been my advisor all along. I will post up the final conclusion as soon as I get it done!! Thanks for all your help Antman.
And then, all the way to the battery.
It then started to rain like Noah had called in for another flood. So, I wrapped it up and left the connection for later. I did insert a weatherproof fuse in the line about a foot from the battery, shrink wrapped the soldered connections as well. You can kind of see the fuse near the yellow sticker that is on the battery.
I will need to connect with my good friend Antman as he has been my advisor all along. I will post up the final conclusion as soon as I get it done!! Thanks for all your help Antman.
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Reata
New member
TxCj3Pilot (sorry if I butchered your handle) and Antman both suggested that put some loom around the wire from the driver's side firewall to the battery which I have done. Additionally, since I ran a direct hot lead from the battery, I Antman and I decided it might be cool to just leave the OEM 110v outlet and the OEM 12v outlet as they came from the factory.
Antman told me I could get another 12v DC outlet at West Marine, so I cruised over there and picked one up. I mounted it up beneath the factory outlets, and then grounded the outlet to a ground that is on the wheel well right behind the panel that the OWM outlets are attached to.
I will post up pics tomorrow of the entire setup. I decided this might be a better solution since it would leave the OEM 12v DC outlet available for any other accessories needed (DVD player, Blender, whatever). It would also eliminate the need to cut and splice into the existing hot line, and would also eliminate the need to leave the OEM hot line taped up and flapping around back there.
All in all it is going to be great. Stay tuned for pics tomorrow.
Antman told me I could get another 12v DC outlet at West Marine, so I cruised over there and picked one up. I mounted it up beneath the factory outlets, and then grounded the outlet to a ground that is on the wheel well right behind the panel that the OWM outlets are attached to.
I will post up pics tomorrow of the entire setup. I decided this might be a better solution since it would leave the OEM 12v DC outlet available for any other accessories needed (DVD player, Blender, whatever). It would also eliminate the need to cut and splice into the existing hot line, and would also eliminate the need to leave the OEM hot line taped up and flapping around back there.
All in all it is going to be great. Stay tuned for pics tomorrow.
Reata
New member
Pics of the final :
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Insulator on the hot lead, just in case...
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Back and installed:
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All back together:
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And Power to the plug!! Note the green light. Fridge is plugged in and cooling now.
[/url][/IMG]
I will let you all know if the factory battery will run the fridge for 8 hours tomorrow. Hopefully it will start up for work in the morning.
Insulator on the hot lead, just in case...
Back and installed:
All back together:
And Power to the plug!! Note the green light. Fridge is plugged in and cooling now.
I will let you all know if the factory battery will run the fridge for 8 hours tomorrow. Hopefully it will start up for work in the morning.
kingpin748
New member
What size is that fridge?
Reata
New member
It is the Engel 45. 8 hours overnight, cooled down to 38 degrees, truck started right up no problem. Ran it all through work today and no problem. I will still be getting the dual battery setup and will run Odyssey batteries before i go on an expedition,but for around town and driving it every day it should be fine.
Johnny Utah
New member
holy crap! that thing isn't cheap!
nashman69g
Member
Do you leave a window or two crack to let out the heat? Was the cabin hot afterwards? What I'm trying to get at is--does the thing put out a lot of heat? I have to imagine so.
jake halligan
New member
thanks for the thread, reata.
been trying to get constant 12v power since i bought my '11 SR5 back in january.
tried a variation of the 4th gen mod, but it's relatively impossible to get the dash off and get at the driver's fuse box to remove relay and put in jumpers.
probably going to go your route.
two questions:
though i don't have 12v/AC outlets on the SR5 in the cargo area, i could put one there: either a DC outlet or an inverter. is the wheel well hollow? and as you stated, there's a ground in there for the outlet?
did you order your Nation Luna dual setup through Sierra Expeditions or another company? and what size Odyssey are you going with?
thanks in advance
been trying to get constant 12v power since i bought my '11 SR5 back in january.
tried a variation of the 4th gen mod, but it's relatively impossible to get the dash off and get at the driver's fuse box to remove relay and put in jumpers.
probably going to go your route.
two questions:
though i don't have 12v/AC outlets on the SR5 in the cargo area, i could put one there: either a DC outlet or an inverter. is the wheel well hollow? and as you stated, there's a ground in there for the outlet?
did you order your Nation Luna dual setup through Sierra Expeditions or another company? and what size Odyssey are you going with?
thanks in advance
Reata
New member
Jake,
I havent worked out all the details just yet, I am thinking of going with two of the PC2150's. I may initially just convert to one PC2150, as I ran with a solo battery for 4 years in my Land Rover with the fridge running all the time. Never had any problems, even after three days of sitting. I will probably get the National Luna from TRDParts4u. Ask for Jacque, he will help you out. Tell him I sent you (John McDaniel). I think 3 days is probably the maximum duration you could go with one battery, this is why i will probably go with two of them. I have also heard Hell Roaring Technologies make a great setup as well for dual batteries.
The wheel well is hollow and is where the factory inverter is mounted. I considered installing the switch as described by Antman and running with the factory wires, but they are so tiny and I just felt better about a direct run. The fridge pulls .7 amps running and around 7 amps at startup, very brief, but still a load.
As for the wheel well, it is definitely hollow and there is a lot of space in there. I would suggest pulling the little tray out and see what you have under there. Sometimes the electronics exist even though the outlets aren't there, at least that was what I found on my Rover frequently- but check first. Antman is a great resource.
I havent worked out all the details just yet, I am thinking of going with two of the PC2150's. I may initially just convert to one PC2150, as I ran with a solo battery for 4 years in my Land Rover with the fridge running all the time. Never had any problems, even after three days of sitting. I will probably get the National Luna from TRDParts4u. Ask for Jacque, he will help you out. Tell him I sent you (John McDaniel). I think 3 days is probably the maximum duration you could go with one battery, this is why i will probably go with two of them. I have also heard Hell Roaring Technologies make a great setup as well for dual batteries.
The wheel well is hollow and is where the factory inverter is mounted. I considered installing the switch as described by Antman and running with the factory wires, but they are so tiny and I just felt better about a direct run. The fridge pulls .7 amps running and around 7 amps at startup, very brief, but still a load.
As for the wheel well, it is definitely hollow and there is a lot of space in there. I would suggest pulling the little tray out and see what you have under there. Sometimes the electronics exist even though the outlets aren't there, at least that was what I found on my Rover frequently- but check first. Antman is a great resource.
Last edited:
Reata
New member
Reata
New member
Hello folks!! Gobi Stealth arrived last week and I did a little bit of a lousy job photographing the install, but here goes.
Thanks to Seattle Mike and Antman for helping me with the questions and suggestions.
First of all the OME has to be removed. I didn't document that at all as there is another thread on here that is very clear on the how to. It is very easy and only requires a torx. I used a 30, but I don't think it is correct at all. It seemed a little small, but I was able to get it to work without stripping anything out.
Once removed, it is very important to be sure that you get some denatured alcohol and remove any gunk or grime from around the mounting points. In fact, I went a step further and cleaned the entire area that was exposed after removing the OME rack. I didnt take any photos of this, sorry. After that is all cleaned out, I placed some GE Silicone II around the mounting tubes (again, no photos of this). This was recommended by SeattleMike and once you get the mounting tubes exposed you will understand why. These tubes, if not sealed properly might expose your headliner to moisture.
Next, you are to place one of the 12 rubber gaskets which has two holes in it into the rain valley and over the mounting tubes where the silicone was placed. Next there are 8 white plastic sleeves that are placed on top of the mounting and the rubber gasket. (see photo)
http://[url=http://jwbmgallery.smugmug.com/Cars/2010-Toyota-4-Runner/15650701_wkc2h#1345380543_WHVNTr3-A-LB]
[/URL]
Next, place another gasket on top of the tubes.
http://[url=http://jwbmgallery.smugmug.com/Cars/2010-Toyota-4-Runner/15650701_wkc2h#1345380481_XKH3mDj-A-LB]
[/URL]
Next place the steel plate that is provided on top of this gasket.
http://[url=http://jwbmgallery.smugmug.com/Cars/2010-Toyota-4-Runner/15650701_wkc2h#1345380627_sgdzQdQ-A-LB]
[/URL]
Then, another gasket on top of the steel plate.
http://[url=http://jwbmgallery.smugmug.com/Cars/2010-Toyota-4-Runner/15650701_wkc2h#1345380794_3LLLzkf-A-LB]
[/URL]
Next, put the footer on the entire stack.
http://[url=http://jwbmgallery.smugmug.com/Cars/2010-Toyota-4-Runner/15650701_wkc2h#1345381002_qrfctNC-A-LB]
[/URL]
Here is a pic of the stack laid out so you can see it well.
http://[url=http://jwbmgallery.smugmug.com/Cars/2010-Toyota-4-Runner/15650701_wkc2h#1345380219_9dzB8CB-A-LB]
[/URL]
Here it is on the truck snugged down, but not tight. Go ahead and repeat this process for the remaining three mounting points at the mounting tubes.
http://[url=http://jwbmgallery.smugmug.com/Cars/2010-Toyota-4-Runner/15650701_wkc2h#1345379899_j5xtM47-A-LB]
[/URL]
Next attach the front footers on both the drivers side and the passenger side to the rack. Both have an adhesive strip, but do not remove the backing at this point. These consist of two pieces that came bolted together in the box already. One is the footer (the part that will rest on your truck) and the other is the riser that you will bolt to the rack. The screw/bolt set will line up like this for the riser:
http://[url=http://jwbmgallery.smugmug.com/Cars/2010-Toyota-4-Runner/15650701_wkc2h#1345379949_TGqf5tK-A-LB]
[/URL]
You will bolt these to the rack like this on both sides.
http://[url=http://jwbmgallery.smugmug.com/Cars/2010-Toyota-4-Runner/15650701_wkc2h#1345380001_K3ZQr6B-A-LB]
[/URL]
Next, manhandle the rack on top of your truck. I did this all alone. It can be done of you are a manly man, but I dont recommend it. If you are alone, just be cautious of the XM Radio antenna. I placed the front feet down first and then rested the rear on the corner of the roof. Then moved the ladder around and lifted it over the antenna and rested it on top of the four mounting points.
After this, get it centered in the front. Each of the free floating front feet will be half on the roof and half on the drain valley which is covered with plastic. once aligned in front, put masking tape down to mark the spot and adjust the remaining four "bolted" mounting points so everything is good and straight.
Next, I tightened the feet to the mounting tubes alternating between the mounting tubes to get an even torque front to back. Then I tightened the brackets tot he rack alternating from corner to corner as I tightened.
http://[url=http://jwbmgallery.smugmug.com/Cars/2010-Toyota-4-Runner/15650701_wkc2h#1345381123_S6bxJnk-A-LB]
[/URL]
Here is the finished product. No detail on the wind deflector, because if you have gotten this far, you should be able to figure out the the last three screws that hold that on....
Thanks to Seattle Mike and Antman for helping me with the questions and suggestions.
First of all the OME has to be removed. I didn't document that at all as there is another thread on here that is very clear on the how to. It is very easy and only requires a torx. I used a 30, but I don't think it is correct at all. It seemed a little small, but I was able to get it to work without stripping anything out.
Once removed, it is very important to be sure that you get some denatured alcohol and remove any gunk or grime from around the mounting points. In fact, I went a step further and cleaned the entire area that was exposed after removing the OME rack. I didnt take any photos of this, sorry. After that is all cleaned out, I placed some GE Silicone II around the mounting tubes (again, no photos of this). This was recommended by SeattleMike and once you get the mounting tubes exposed you will understand why. These tubes, if not sealed properly might expose your headliner to moisture.
Next, you are to place one of the 12 rubber gaskets which has two holes in it into the rain valley and over the mounting tubes where the silicone was placed. Next there are 8 white plastic sleeves that are placed on top of the mounting and the rubber gasket. (see photo)
http://[url=http://jwbmgallery.smugmug.com/Cars/2010-Toyota-4-Runner/15650701_wkc2h#1345380543_WHVNTr3-A-LB]
[/URL]Next, place another gasket on top of the tubes.
http://[url=http://jwbmgallery.smugmug.com/Cars/2010-Toyota-4-Runner/15650701_wkc2h#1345380481_XKH3mDj-A-LB]
[/URL]Next place the steel plate that is provided on top of this gasket.
http://[url=http://jwbmgallery.smugmug.com/Cars/2010-Toyota-4-Runner/15650701_wkc2h#1345380627_sgdzQdQ-A-LB]
[/URL]Then, another gasket on top of the steel plate.
http://[url=http://jwbmgallery.smugmug.com/Cars/2010-Toyota-4-Runner/15650701_wkc2h#1345380794_3LLLzkf-A-LB]
[/URL]Next, put the footer on the entire stack.
http://[url=http://jwbmgallery.smugmug.com/Cars/2010-Toyota-4-Runner/15650701_wkc2h#1345381002_qrfctNC-A-LB]
[/URL]Here is a pic of the stack laid out so you can see it well.
http://[url=http://jwbmgallery.smugmug.com/Cars/2010-Toyota-4-Runner/15650701_wkc2h#1345380219_9dzB8CB-A-LB]
[/URL]Here it is on the truck snugged down, but not tight. Go ahead and repeat this process for the remaining three mounting points at the mounting tubes.
http://[url=http://jwbmgallery.smugmug.com/Cars/2010-Toyota-4-Runner/15650701_wkc2h#1345379899_j5xtM47-A-LB]
[/URL]Next attach the front footers on both the drivers side and the passenger side to the rack. Both have an adhesive strip, but do not remove the backing at this point. These consist of two pieces that came bolted together in the box already. One is the footer (the part that will rest on your truck) and the other is the riser that you will bolt to the rack. The screw/bolt set will line up like this for the riser:
http://[url=http://jwbmgallery.smugmug.com/Cars/2010-Toyota-4-Runner/15650701_wkc2h#1345379949_TGqf5tK-A-LB]
[/URL]You will bolt these to the rack like this on both sides.
http://[url=http://jwbmgallery.smugmug.com/Cars/2010-Toyota-4-Runner/15650701_wkc2h#1345380001_K3ZQr6B-A-LB]
[/URL]Next, manhandle the rack on top of your truck. I did this all alone. It can be done of you are a manly man, but I dont recommend it. If you are alone, just be cautious of the XM Radio antenna. I placed the front feet down first and then rested the rear on the corner of the roof. Then moved the ladder around and lifted it over the antenna and rested it on top of the four mounting points.
After this, get it centered in the front. Each of the free floating front feet will be half on the roof and half on the drain valley which is covered with plastic. once aligned in front, put masking tape down to mark the spot and adjust the remaining four "bolted" mounting points so everything is good and straight.
Next, I tightened the feet to the mounting tubes alternating between the mounting tubes to get an even torque front to back. Then I tightened the brackets tot he rack alternating from corner to corner as I tightened.
http://[url=http://jwbmgallery.smugmug.com/Cars/2010-Toyota-4-Runner/15650701_wkc2h#1345381123_S6bxJnk-A-LB]
[/URL]Here is the finished product. No detail on the wind deflector, because if you have gotten this far, you should be able to figure out the the last three screws that hold that on....
Last edited:
Reata
New member
Here is the finished product installed. Sorry for the crappy pictures. Hope this helps some of you.
http://[url=http://jwbmgallery.smugmug.com/Cars/2010-Toyota-4-Runner/15650701_wkc2h#1345381458_HbKMkpC-A-LB]
[/URL]
http://[url=http://jwbmgallery.smugmug.com/Cars/2010-Toyota-4-Runner/15650701_wkc2h#1345382035_BnSzNL9-A-LB]
[/URL]
http://[url=http://jwbmgallery.smugmug.com/Cars/2010-Toyota-4-Runner/15650701_wkc2h#1345381943_kxvGkbM-A-LB]
[/URL]
http://[url=http://jwbmgallery.smugmug.com/Cars/2010-Toyota-4-Runner/15650701_wkc2h#1345381458_HbKMkpC-A-LB]
[/URL]http://[url=http://jwbmgallery.smugmug.com/Cars/2010-Toyota-4-Runner/15650701_wkc2h#1345382035_BnSzNL9-A-LB]
[/URL]http://[url=http://jwbmgallery.smugmug.com/Cars/2010-Toyota-4-Runner/15650701_wkc2h#1345381943_kxvGkbM-A-LB]
[/URL]
SeattleMike
New member
Looks good.
I'm still unsure what "weight" the front feet are bearing *stares at Antman*
I'm still unsure what "weight" the front feet are bearing *stares at Antman*
Antman
Elite Member
Here's all 4 eyes glaring back @ you SeattleMike...
If the rack is loaded forward of the middle supports, like, say the sunroof insert is in, weight will be carried by those front feet.
That said, if you don't think so, I'm good with that. I've read lots of your posts, and you're alot like the 'Stones..... If ya start me up, if ya start me up I never stop- so there ya go!
If the rack is loaded forward of the middle supports, like, say the sunroof insert is in, weight will be carried by those front feet.
That said, if you don't think so, I'm good with that. I've read lots of your posts, and you're alot like the 'Stones..... If ya start me up, if ya start me up I never stop- so there ya go!
SeattleMike
New member
It's my secret to high post counts :banana:Here's all 4 eyes glaring back @ you SeattleMike...
If the rack is loaded forward of the middle supports, like, say the sunroof insert is in, weight will be carried by those front feet.
That said, if you don't think so, I'm good with that. I've read lots of your posts, and you're alot like the 'Stones..... If ya start me up, if ya start me up I never stop- so there ya go!
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