Recommend Shocks

P

psea17

Member
Looking for recommendations based on the following:

1. Want to maintain stock height and relativly stock feel. This is my sole vehicle. So don't want it to be too firm.
2. Sounds like I want to avoid shocks w the allen bolt at the top. Seems like it would be a PITA to install/remove.
3. Will be towing an expedition travel trailer. Probably about 3500lbs. Don't do stuff too crazy. No lift intended.
4.just installed airlift 1000 bags.

Bags are pressing against both the top and bottom of the bags uninflated. So I'm thinking my present shocks are shot.

Thoughts? Thx
 
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New OEM shocks are a great option, as are Bilstein 4600's (slightly stiffer than stock). Avoid parts store garbage (monroe, etc.), they won't last. Shocks with allen-head tops aren't too bad with the right tools, this is how I did mine:

A8yBcyj.jpg


Check your rear ride height - it should be around 20" from the center of the hub to the lip of the fender. If the rear has drooped due to age new OEM springs (either '99 'talls' or similar) will get you back to 'factory' height. Moog springs are available, but of questionable quality.

3500lbs towing is a fairly high amount for a 4Runner (yeah, it is rated for 5k). Make sure you have good trailer brakes and a trans cooler...

-Charlie
 
The Bilstein's (which have the allen head) aren't that hard to install, but if they're rusty they can be a real PITA to get off. since you're in AZ, I'd imagine it wouldn't present too much of a problem for you.
 
Is a transmission cooler recommended for manuals?

I actually have similar tools. Ok, so it may not be too difficult.
 
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phattyduck said:
New OEM shocks are a great option, as are Bilstein 4600's (slightly stiffer than stock). Avoid parts store garbage (monroe, etc.), they won't last. Shocks with allen-head tops aren't too bad with the right tools, this is how I did mine:

Check your rear ride height - it should be around 20" from the center of the hub to the lip of the fender. If the rear has drooped due to age new OEM springs (either '99 'talls' or similar) will get you back to 'factory' height. Moog springs are available, but of questionable quality.

3500lbs towing is a fairly high amount for a 4Runner (yeah, it is rated for 5k). Make sure you have good trailer brakes and a trans cooler...

-Charlie
Click to expand...

Called Toyota today. Never heard this before. The dealer said they don't make them anymore! He doesn't have any.

I'm running 265/75R16 so pretty sure that changes the measurement.

35.75 fr ground to bottom of fender
20.75 fr mid point of hub to bottom of fender

Trailer dry weight is 2750lbs. It's a pop-up. So should tow a little better. Rounded up to account for extras. This is what I'm getting. Super excited! My first toy. Been too disciplined. Time to play a little. Australian origins.

Dominator
 
psea17 said:
Called Toyota today. Never heard this before. The dealer said they don't make them anymore! He doesn't have any.

I'm running 265/75R16 so pretty sure that changes the measurement.

35.75 fr ground to bottom of fender
20.75 fr mid point of hub to bottom of fender

Trailer dry weight is 2750lbs. It's a pop-up. So should tow a little better. Rounded up to account for extras. This is what I'm getting. Super excited! My first toy. Been too disciplined. Time to play a little. Australian origins.

Dominator
Click to expand...

99 had taller springs than other years. If you call a dealership and have them look up springs for a 1999 4wd 4runner they will be the taller springs.

Tire size will never affect the hub to fender distance FYI.

Manual transmission don't require and aren't able to have an external transmission cooler. Only automatics are able to.
 
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Bad Luck said:
99 had taller springs than other years. If you call a dealership and have them look up springs for a 1999 4wd 4runner they will be the taller springs.

Tire size will never affect the hub to fender distance FYI.

Manual transmission don't require and aren't able to have an external transmission cooler. Only automatics are able to.
Click to expand...

Hmmm. Learn something ev day. I would have thought the second number in a tire measurement would affect the calculation. So a 265/70 wouldn't have a smaller radius than a 265/75?

If 99 springs are taller, isn't that going to give me rake or a greater lift in the rear?
 
psea17 said:
Hmmm. Learn something ev day. I would have thought the second number in a tire measurement would affect the calculation. So a 265/70 wouldn't have a smaller radius than a 265/75?

If 99 springs are taller, isn't that going to give me rake or a greater lift in the rear?
Click to expand...

Stock 3rd gens already had close to 2 inches rake from the factory. Also, If your rear springs are sagging then your fronts will probably need replaced as well.

Tire size will change the hub to ground measurement and therefore ground to fender measurement, but the only factor that changes hub to fender measurement is your suspension components (or if you trim your fenders).
 
Bad Luck said:
Stock 3rd gens already had close to 2 inches rake from the factory. Also, If your rear springs are sagging then your fronts will probably need replaced as well.
Click to expand...

So if i get the 99 tall springs, wouldn't that even worsen tge rake?

So would you recommend getting 4? Or are the springs different up front?
 
psea17 said:
So if i get the 99 tall springs, wouldn't that even worsen tge rake?

So would you recommend getting 4? Or are the springs different up front?
Click to expand...

If I was going through the effort of replacing my front and rear shocks and decided to replace my rear springs, then I would go ahead and replace my front springs as well. Just my $0.02. Your mileage may vary, keep all hands and feet inside the ride at all times, don't play with fire, etc.
 
The springs will impact towing more than the shocks.

After reading dozens of suspension threads here, the consensus seems to be OME 906 are the springs to get for towing. The 906's are a little higher than stock but only by 2" (1" more than 99s) IIRC. Not high enough to significantly alter the ride. They pair well with 99s in the front for a slight rake when unloaded. I think you can get away with 906s paired with Bilstein 4600s, but 5100s would work better.
 
Don't tge OME 960‘s add 2"? I don't want a 2" lift. Trying to keep closer to stock height. I'll be using airbags to stiffen.

Starting to think replacing all springs and shocks is likely.
 
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OME 906's do add about 2" of lift. That's what I have with KYB gas a-just shocks in the rear. They are excellent for towing but, they definitely ride much stiffer than stock.

OP, I would get a set of 99 tall springs, front and back paired with a decent set of shocks. Nothing beats the original ride quality like...the original equipment.
 
psea17 said:
Hmmm. Learn something ev day. I would have thought the second number in a tire measurement would affect the calculation. So a 265/70 wouldn't have a smaller radius than a 265/75?
Click to expand...
CENTER OF HUB to FENDER LIP. Tire size won't matter that way. If you do ground to fender lip, the measurement changes with tire size.

Airbags will stiffen up the rear just fine for towing. Just make sure you aren't riding too close to the bump stops with your current (possibly sagged) springs first.

-Charlie
 
Decision made!

99 tall springs.

4813135350 - Front Left $145.92
4813135400 - Front Right $148.74
4823135210 - Rear Both Sides $111.76 x 2

Ordering from mcgeorge toyota parts online. cheaper than camelback toyota.

Now shocks. Think I may go with bilstein 5100 in rear. Not sure what to get for front. Any additional input?
 
I might use 5100s in the rear, and 4600s in the front. Because the 4600s are non-adjustable, they will put the ride height at stock '99 level in the front, giving you a 1" rake with the back higher than the front, which is great for towing. However, someone has probably posted which perch to set the front 5100s on to level the truck with 906s in the rear. It just may be easier to plug and play the 4600s.

Sounds like a fun upgrade!
 
I was just trying to help you out by saving some cash with some aftermarket close to OEM options..But if you're just gonna go with OEM then by all means do so. The 906's would look "raked" for the first 6 months then eventually settle..Also are you planning to do all the work yourself?
Anywho good luck with your decision!
 
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