Recommendation on oil changes.

Well, I did my 2nd oil change (10360 mi). Taking the skidplate off is a bad option, IMO. I took it off still attached to the plastic piece in front of it and it was a son of a ***** to get back on. The little tabs where the skidplate pivots were the most problematic. I ended up having to take the plastic piece off, reattach it to the underbody and then get the skid plate up there. I'm pretty sure that I got the tabs back in the hole, but I wasn't able to get one of the little push pins (that attached the plastic to the skidplate) back in. Oh well. What a pain in the ass, though.

1000mph - I think the difference between the SR5/Limited bumper and the TE bumper makes that plastic piece easy on the TE and a total son of a ***** on the SR5. You have to cram the plastic piece up behind the bumper cover and then blindly try to find the skid plate tab holes on the SR5. It appears that you don't have to do that on the TE (i.e. you can bend the plastic piece down to visually find the skid plate holes on the TE). If this is true, pivoting the skid plate is FAR FAR FAR preferential to removing the whole assembly on the SR5 and Limited.
 
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Xiao Yue said:
I didn't have much of a problem with my SR5, using a ramp and an impact driver.
Click to expand...

Did you pivot the skid or completely remove it? I've done both. First time, didn't have ramps, pivoted the plate, made a mess. Second time, didn't have ramps, removed the plate, change was clean and easy, getting the plate back on was a pain.
 
Xiao Yue said:
I removed the plate. What did you use to refasten the skid plate?
Click to expand...

I just used a socket set. The issue wasn't tightening. Getting the little tabs back in the holes was the issue. Once I got the skidplate tabs back in, tightening everything up was easy.
 
I changed the oil on my TE recently. If I remember correctly the front plastic skid plate only had one plastic push pin (front middle) and the other six metal bolts were 10mm. The steel skid plate had four 12mm bolts and I didn't have to ramp up at all. Although it was a little tight under there, just had to crawl under a bit to reach the drain. It was a lot to handle for an oil change but wasn't difficult to remove and reassemble.
 
easier oil changes are only a hole saw away

I too thought having to deal with the skid plate each time for a oil change was a big PITA. So what I did during my first oil change was to carefully measure and use a hole saw and jig saw to cut away part of the skid plate and steel mesh so I would not have to unbolt the plate for any future oil changes. I also installed a Fumota drain valve so I wouldn't have to unbolt the drain bolt anymore. While I was at it I also used a hole saw and drilled about a 3" hole through the drain-bolt cover plate right inline with the Fumota drain valve.

Sorry I don't have pictures, but anyone wanting to do this mod just needs to do some careful measuring before hole sawing and cutting. The skid plate was a little tricky to cut around the oil filter location, but start with a smaller cut and you can always cut more out to suit.

I just changed the oil tonight and the only tool I needed was the oil filter socket wrench. By the way, I found the filter wrench made by K-D tools fits the 4Runner filter housing perfectly.
 
I've attached a marked up pdf drawing from a page of the Toyota manual I downloaded from this forum. You will see from this drawing the section of the skid plate I cut out so I wouldn't have to remove skid plate for future oil changes. Remember it's only a skid plate that you're cutting and this area is further covered up by another plastic cover. So it was no big deal to me if the cut out section was not "perfect". Hope this helps.
 

Attachments

Seriously? You cut holes in your skid plates to avoid a couple of bolts? OK, to each his own I guess.
 
Very astute observation on your part, 1000MPH!

I just thought I'd share an idea. Use it if you'd like, if you don't like that's ceratainly your prerogative. You certainly can go ahead and unbolt your skid plate every time you do an oil change.

:lmao::flamethrwoer2:
 
Made it through the first oil change - 5223 miles.

I am pretty good with a wrench, but I have to say that the advice on this post made the job a LOT easier.

I see that the skid plat has been a source of consternation for some, so I will add my experience.

I have some small "lift blocks" that I made out of three layers of 2X12...so they're between 5-6" high. I drove the front end up on the blocks, and then dropped the skidplate. That was plenty of room. I then bent the skidplate forward (which caused the tabs to bend a bit), and then lifted it right off of the "bar" that it mounts to.

When I put the plate back on, I had to reef on it in order to get the bolt holes to line up. I guess the clips must have been preventing a "perfect" alignment.

Once I pass my "free maintenance period", I am going to find someone with a plasma cutter or a big - ol - sawzall and open up a section in the skid plate so I can get at the filter. I will then make a smaller blank of plate to cover the hole when it is not in use.

The other thing is this. I have a 65 mm filter "socket", but it was difficult to preventing it from "hopping" on the filter cap.

Oh yeah, that little snout that you use to drain the filter housing is pure genius in the way that it takes the O ring off - nice job Toyota (I am not being sarcastic).

Happy motoring everyone. If anyone in the Seattle area wants to meet up somewhere for a mass slaughter of our skidplates, let me know!
 
Stupid question but ... is this the correct TRD filter for the 5th gens? Ordered online (link was in a thread here somewhere, don't remember where), but doesn't look much like the replaceable canister type posted here earlier.

IMG_0818.jpg~original



IMG_0820.jpg~original
 
I think that's for the 4cyl, the 039 is for the 6 IIRC.. The box is nice but what does the filter look like?

Oops: I meant PTR43-00079
 
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If that fit I bet they'd sell a bunch.
I put the wrong P/N in my previous post.
It's PTR43-00079
ptr43-00079.jpg
But I ain't guaranteeing it...
 
1000MPH said:
If that fit I bet they'd sell a bunch.
I put the wrong P/N in my previous post.
It's PTR43-00079
ptr43-00079.jpg
But I ain't guaranteeing it...
Click to expand...

Doh! You're right, doesn't fit.

Frustrating because the site I ordered it from only had a drop down for '10 4Runner. No engine choice. Since 90%+ 4Runners are V6, it never occurred to me I'd have a problem.

Oh well.
 
Need help, Can the oil filter ride for 10K?

Ok, this will be the 3rd oil change for me. I did the first just fine and the dealer did the second. Well now in the middle of the 3rd oil change I cant get the dmn oil filter out... dealer overtorqued it, and my filter wrench is spinning over it.

What do I do?

- Should I just not replace the oil filter, fill it up with fresh oil and ride it for another 5K

- I disposed of the dirty oil, so I have to use clean oil if I am going to take it to the dealer.

Can the oil filter hold for another 5K?

Need your thoughts on this.
 
Put a rag or rags on the filter housing and tap the wrench into position. The rag(s) should help take up the slack. If that doesn't work you may need a better-fitting wrench.
 
Froggy said:
Put a rag or rags on the filter housing and tap the wrench into position. The rag(s) should help take up the slack. If that doesn't work you may need a better-fitting wrench.
Click to expand...

There is not room for a rag or paper towel... it tight, I tried tapping it in and believe me.... it is not going anywhere.
 
I use the blue paper towels available at most auto parts stores, Costco, Sam's, etc. and they will fit, tear a strip off and put it on one side of the wrench. I had the same problem on my 07 Tundra, it will make the filter housing wrench extremely tight but you will be able to loosen the housing.
 
TKO88 said:
I use the blue paper towels available at most auto parts stores, Costco, Sam's, etc. and they will fit, tear a strip off and put it on one side of the wrench. I had the same problem on my 07 Tundra, it will make the filter housing wrench extremely tight but you will be able to loosen the housing.
Click to expand...

Done!, after a few hammer taps I was able to get it off.
 
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