Recommendation on oil changes.
- Thread starter RJS-T4R
- Start date
Hey guys, just wondering on a few things after reading this thread. I'm going to be changing my oil this coming weekend @ almost 21k miles. Dealer did the others but the 3+ hour wait is unacceptable to me for a freakin oil change. So I decided to start doing my own.
My questions:
Does using ramps cause any issues when draining the oil? Meaning, does the pitch of the truck being elevated in the front cause any oil to NOT drain that should be drained? I'm asking because I will be using ramps and don't want to over-fill with 6.5 quarts if there is too much residual oil left from draining.
Other question is, do you guys lube the O-rings with any special stuff or just use your finger with some motor oil and just wipe some on the ring?
Thanks guys
My questions:
Does using ramps cause any issues when draining the oil? Meaning, does the pitch of the truck being elevated in the front cause any oil to NOT drain that should be drained? I'm asking because I will be using ramps and don't want to over-fill with 6.5 quarts if there is too much residual oil left from draining.
Other question is, do you guys lube the O-rings with any special stuff or just use your finger with some motor oil and just wipe some on the ring?
Thanks guys
harper7
Senior Member
Per the Toyota Repair manual .....09228-06501 - 64mm
Repair manual on Lubrication.... Toyota Repair Manual/Lubrication
I have a 65mm and get by. It's a little loose but works.That's what she said anyways!
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sandcrawler
Senior Member
i don't have a part number for you, but i got a 65mm from my dealer parts counter. perfect fit. 12 bucks.
did my 10k oil change this weekend and it went pretty smoothly, though i'm impressed that some folks actually managed the job without a jack or ramps. that drain nozzle for the filter sump is brilliant. as noted before, just be sure to press it in firmly and evenly so the canister is totally empty when you wrench it off. worked great for me; not a drop spilled.
apart from the 65mm SST, you only need a 14mm socket for the drain plug and a 10mm and 12mm for the skid plates. impact driver optional but way helpful.
did my 10k oil change this weekend and it went pretty smoothly, though i'm impressed that some folks actually managed the job without a jack or ramps. that drain nozzle for the filter sump is brilliant. as noted before, just be sure to press it in firmly and evenly so the canister is totally empty when you wrench it off. worked great for me; not a drop spilled.
apart from the 65mm SST, you only need a 14mm socket for the drain plug and a 10mm and 12mm for the skid plates. impact driver optional but way helpful.
It seems that they are starting to stock it now, so it might still be a hit or miss. According to priuschat, it seems that other people have been finding these at their local Wal Mart.
Mobil 1 / 0 w 20 great price!!!!! - PriusChat Forums
http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-iii...mobil-1-0-w-20-great-price-2.html#post1284969
scanny
Senior Member
It doesn't say price for quart in the bill, it just says list price oil $4.41 and total for oil change (for oil only ) $26.46
Antman
Elite Member
I would just like to say this. I changed the oil for the first time today @ 3500 miles. Also did my 2010 Honda Odyssey first time. Honda 15 minutes, done. 4Runner?? What a joke! I actually like changing my own oil, but this was made much more difficult than it ever needs to be by Toyota Engineers. Ok, it's NOT hard, but...Why not put in a trap door instead of having to take the skid off? Sure it's only 4 bolts, but it's stupid. First thing I did was grind off the S hooks on the front of the skid. If a technician is dumb enough to take out the bolts and not hold it up there he probably deserves a good smack in the head with a metal plate IMO... Then you have a filter that comes with a plastic drain valve and 2 O rings that need to be replaced. You can't fill the stinking filter with oil before installing it, which I like to do. 4 pieces VS 1 standard filter. Why? I would much rather have a conventional filter which has been serving the automotive world fine, forever...I am sorry to complain, but I just wanted to vent. I got oil on my garage floor.:wow:
Thanks for listening, I feel better now.:violin:
Thanks for listening, I feel better now.:violin:
Antman
Elite Member
The thought of some kid changing my oil makes me cringe. I doubt they give that job to the technicians, but who knows. I am going to see if my Service Manager will give me the oil filters at my scheduled service intervals, and I will do it myself with Mobil1. What are the odds of that actually coming to fruition ??
homeyclaus
New member
Can I make a bet on a negative percentage?
No matter what, I can't say anything bad about this or my previous Toyota. Because:
1. It's not as bad as changing the oil on a VW Transporter diesel.
2. It'll never be as bad as changing the oil on a mid-80's BMW 3 series.
3. There is no way they could make it with less working space for the filter than a mid-80's inline-6 GM 1-ton+ truck chassis.
And number 4: It will always, always, suck less than just changing the power steering belt on the wife's 2001 Maxima. Especially one that was on there since the vehicle was built in 08/2000 to this Sunday - it took two hours of soaking and working it to convince that adjuster to move again.
JB.
New member
Don't worry, it only gets worse once you have the Toyota techs perform their "free" molestation service on it.
At least they don't charge extra for stripping the skid plate bolts.
harper7
Senior Member
I agree totally ....there are way worse cars out there to change the oil and filter on! Try not get soak the headers with oil on an older Corvette with a big block motor when changing the filter.We just got spoiled by where they had it for the older Toyota vvt-i engines with the spin on filters.It's not like they purposely put it down there to make it harder on us. They had to put it down below as this new design of the heads with dual vvt-i puts the exhaust varible timing gears right where the old filter used to be. Did you happen to look how big the heads are now and the design of the engine? I'll take the trade off for Dual vvt-i with roller rocker heads any day of the week.:thumb3:
The oil change gets easier the second/third time you do it. I didn't spill a drop the last time which was my 4th time .Rather then cut them two front hooks off the skid plate, which aid you in locating and holding the skid in place as you raise it up.Just take the 4 or 5 10mm bolts bolts and one push pin out of the plastic panel in front of it and remove it. Then you can just take the front skid off the hooks and put it aside. Takes about 3 minutes more to do it this way but you don't have to fight the skid !
"My questions:
Does using ramps cause any issues when draining the oil? Meaning, does the pitch of the truck being elevated in the front cause any oil to NOT drain that should be drained? I'm asking because I will be using ramps and don't want to over-fill with 6.5 quarts if there is too much residual oil left from draining."
I had this same question, which was originally asked by sandwich in a previous post.
Does using ramps cause any issues when draining the oil? Meaning, does the pitch of the truck being elevated in the front cause any oil to NOT drain that should be drained? I'm asking because I will be using ramps and don't want to over-fill with 6.5 quarts if there is too much residual oil left from draining."
I had this same question, which was originally asked by sandwich in a previous post.
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NO. but if your concerned about it, just measure the oil taken out and put in that same amount of clean/new oil. If the tilt causes any residual oil its VERY minimal.
I just completed my first DIY oil change on the 4Runner and thought I would add a few notes and/or lessons learned to add to the excellent write up that 1000MPH did back on pages 3 and 4. First, I found that I had 7 bolts (vice 5) and a clip that held on the lower front bumper cover. The two additional bolts (one on each side) attach the outer most corner of the lower bumper cover to plastic liners extending between the inner wheel well to the bumper. You do NOT need to torque these two outer bolts upon reassembly; just snug them up enough to mate the liners together. I did not raise the vehicle to change the oil (although the extra clearance would make access the everything underneath a lot easier).
The FSM and 1000MPH's write up both indicated to drain the sump and then reinstall the drain plug before tackling the filter. If you choose to remove/drain the filter before reinstalling the drain plug into the sump, you will need two oil pans/buckets to catch the oil that drains out; one under the filter, and a second one to remain under the sump drain hole. If you just move the catch pan from under the sump directly underneath the filter without installing the drain plug, you will get a big mess on your floor.
There's quite a bit of oil that comes out of the sump once you open the filter housing; about as much that drains out of the filter. Speaking of the filter, I found that it was helpful to use two hands to install the drain tube into the bottom of the filter. Maybe it was my angle of attack, but I found it difficult to get the drain tube to fully seat into the filter housing using just one hand. The result was oil running all over my fingers and one hand trying the seat the tube until I used my second hand to evenly apply pressure onto both sides of the flange on the drain tube.
Again, I performed my oil change with the 4Runner sitting on the garage floor without raising the vehicle. Lifting the front end to allow better access to the undercarriage may prevent the issues that I ran into. That and making sure you have a second catch pan. :ybrick:
The FSM and 1000MPH's write up both indicated to drain the sump and then reinstall the drain plug before tackling the filter. If you choose to remove/drain the filter before reinstalling the drain plug into the sump, you will need two oil pans/buckets to catch the oil that drains out; one under the filter, and a second one to remain under the sump drain hole. If you just move the catch pan from under the sump directly underneath the filter without installing the drain plug, you will get a big mess on your floor.
There's quite a bit of oil that comes out of the sump once you open the filter housing; about as much that drains out of the filter. Speaking of the filter, I found that it was helpful to use two hands to install the drain tube into the bottom of the filter. Maybe it was my angle of attack, but I found it difficult to get the drain tube to fully seat into the filter housing using just one hand. The result was oil running all over my fingers and one hand trying the seat the tube until I used my second hand to evenly apply pressure onto both sides of the flange on the drain tube.Again, I performed my oil change with the 4Runner sitting on the garage floor without raising the vehicle. Lifting the front end to allow better access to the undercarriage may prevent the issues that I ran into. That and making sure you have a second catch pan. :ybrick:
