Reconnect Bluetooth EVERY TIME!

gibburnz

New member
Hey guys,

New to this forum and apologies if this has been discussed already. I've got an '11 4R Trail and it came with the standard radio w/bluetooth. When I first got the 4R, I synced my phone and every time I turned the car on, it found my phone with no problems. Then one day, it stopped and now I need to go through the "Bluetooth audio set-up. Push the talk switch..." each and every time I get in. What am I doing wrong? I removed the phone from the radio's memory, re-established a connection and still doesn't automatically find it every time I start it up. Any advice or tips you can give would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 
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Hey guys,

New to this forum and apologies if this has been discussed already. I've got an '11 4R Trail and it came with the standard radio w/bluetooth. When I first got the 4R, I synced my phone and every time I turned the car on, it found my phone with no problems. Then one day, it stopped and now I need to go through the "Bluetooth audio set-up. Push the talk switch..." each and every time I get in. What am I doing wrong? I removed the phone from the radio's memory, re-established a connection and still doesn't automatically find it every time I start it up. Any advice or tips you can give would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Hi Ryan,

I got the 2012 LE and had the exact trouble. What I did was pulled the 30A amp fuse that's in the main fusebox (under the hood) and left that fuse out for a total of four (Full) hours; this gives the Main Body ECU & Certification ECU the opportunity to rid itself of the damaged temporary files and corrupt history logs that are stored in these ECUs and return to it's factory default settings. I also cycled the BT feature in my android to give that a fresh start as well!

That worked wonders! If that doesn't solve the problem, go back to your local Toyota dealership and have them update the O.S. in your audio system (it's free/No charge) which may have become damaged across time. Let us know how you make out with that so that others may be able to benefit from your experience! 'Best to you',

rig
 
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2nd that. Long debated issue. 2016 Trail Premium and it will reconnect with choppy audio. Flick Bluetooth off then on with smart phone and then no issue...until the next time...sometimes. Heard there's a hardware issue but haven't tried Rig's attempt yet. Makes sense. Fuse pulling is easier than a dealer event. Let us know.

-4Reak
 
I also initially had issues with connectivity. What worked for me is to have both the head unit and the phone completely forget each other and delete the profiles. Then, reconnect them as if you were doing it for the first time. It has worked for me. Worth a shot.
 
The only smart phone that works with my 2013 TE without issue is my Moto X Pure. I've had problems with nearly all other Android and iOS devices I've owned.
 
Man, I hate you. The only phone that is giving me issues with my '16 TEP is my...MOTO X PURE. :der:

The only smart phone that works with my 2013 TE without issue is my Moto X Pure. I've had problems with nearly all other Android and iOS devices I've owned.
 
Quite possible. My Galaxy S5 always connects immediately. With the Moto X the phone almost always connects but it hangs on the audio connection. I often have to stop the vehicle, restart the phone then start the vehicle again.

Yeah, that is super weird. Maybe it's because there are different radios in the different model years?
 
rigtec for the Win!

rigtec's trick worked perfectly. Left it out all day when I was at work, came back, plugged everything back in, reconnected the phone and it worked perfectly last night and this morning. Thanks buddy!!!
 
The most annoying thing is that I have my phone first on the bluetooth devices list and then my girlfriends right after it, and no matter what we do, it always chooses to connect to hers first. IT IS MY 4RUNNER WTF :confused:

solved the issue by deleting her phone out of the system :music:

EDIT: AND SHE DOESNT EVEN HAVE THE ENTUNE APP INSTALLED!!!!!

#firstworldproblems
 
rigtec's trick worked perfectly. Left it out all day when I was at work, came back, plugged everything back in, reconnected the phone and it worked perfectly last night and this morning. Thanks buddy!!!

That's great news Ryan: I know many others here will save time and $$$ being able to resolve this 'BT glitch' on their own right at home, in their very own driveways! Thank you for feeding back Ryan,

rig, :cheers:
 
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The only smart phone that works with my 2013 TE without issue is my Moto X Pure. I've had problems with nearly all other Android and iOS devices I've owned.

Hey Lnd-Crusr,

I know you've been perusing these forums long enough to suspect that your audio system's hard-drive is loaded beyond it's full capacity with useless (outdated) temporary files and history-logs; which will eventually consume not only it's nominal app operational storage capacity, but will at some point, begin to interfere with the H-D's systematic coordination and filing protocols e.g. file orders, folder locations (upon start-up/shut-down),

proper speed and efficiency... and then on and on and on...... and this same logic and principle does apply to the many other slave ECU's that are governed by our Main Body ECU compu network, so ALL of the ECU's (Power Train, Main body Electrical systems, etc) will have that same need for some form of Maintenance/RESET, from time to time). 'Best to you',

rig, Cheers!
 
I have a similar issue. My car will connect the blue tooth but play the audio in super fast sets of 3 seconds and then cut out. I have to reset the connect every time.
 
Hi Ryan,

I got the 2012 LE and had the exact trouble. What I did was pulled the 30A amp fuse that's in the main fusebox (under the hood) and left that fuse out for a total of four (Full) hours; this gives the Main Body ECU & Certification ECU the opportunity to rid itself of the damaged temporary files and corrupt history logs that are stored in these ECUs and return to it's factory default settings. I also cycled the BT feature in my android to give that a fresh start as well!

That worked wonders! If that doesn't solve the problem, go back to your local Toyota dealership and have them update the O.S. in your audio system (it's free/No charge) which may have become damaged across time. Let us know how you make out with that so that others may be able to benefit from your experience! 'Best to you',

rig

Hi Rigtec - I'm having the same bluetooth issues and am hoping this fixes the issue! Could you elaborate on how to pull the 30A fuse? I see multiple fuses labelled 30A, and want to make sure I grab the right one. Thanks!
 
Hi Rigtec - I'm having the same bluetooth issues and am hoping this fixes the issue! Could you elaborate on how to pull the 30A fuse?!

Fear not rocky.mtn lol!

First: Let me apologize for the delayed reply! I wasn't subscribed to this thread so there was no notification.When I saw your question for the 1'st time late last night (believe it or not) I was drafting a reply. when I neared the end of my, rather lengthy explanation, the page just went blank, so please forgive my delayed reply!

On 4Runners from 2010 to 2013, they'll be a fuse labeled 30A AMP fuse...AMP is short for Amplifier! It's GREEN, located in the center row of the box. This is the fuse that stays HOT AT ALL TIMES. It's how the vehicle is able to store data e.g., radio presets, compass calibration and so on.

Now just pulling that fuse out won't delete the info that's stored there; it has a buffer circuit for when a tech needs to disconnect the battery for a couple hrs to service the truck, so it can store intel for a few hours (2-3 hours). But to clear audio history logs you would need to remove this fuse for a minimum of four hours 'just to play it safe'.

When you de-energize that audio circuit for four hours (this is true for ALL of the ECU compu networks) the circuits involved will lose their stored functional log history and default back to their factory settings; much like a windows laptop by turning it off and back on, or an ANDROID phone when you remove the battery, counting to ten and then replacing it!

You can still use the truck w/o the 30A fuse in the slot but you just won't have any audio including the GPS prompter! Once you're done you'll need to set-up the radio station presets, and I believe the compass circle calibration would need to be done but that's easy stuff; you'll find the setup in the manual in the glove box! Hope this helps Tom,

rig, cheers
 
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Fear not rocky.mtn lol!

First: Let me apologize for the delayed reply! I wasn't subscribed to this thread so there was no notification.When I saw your question for the 1'st time late last night (believe it or not) I was drafting a reply. when I neared the end of my, rather lengthy explanation, the page just went blank, so please forgive my delayed reply!

On 4Runners from 2010 to 2013, they'll be a fuse labeled 30A AMP fuse...AMP is short for Amplifier! It's GREEN, located in the center row of the box. This is the fuse that stays HOT AT ALL TIMES. It's how the vehicle is able to store data e.g., radio presets, compass calibration and so on.

Now just pulling that fuse out won't delete the info that's stored there; it has a buffer circuit for when a tech needs to disconnect the battery for a couple hrs to service the truck, so it can store intel for a few hours (2-3 hours). But to clear audio history logs you would need to remove this fuse for a minimum of four hours 'just to play it safe'.

When you de-energize that audio circuit for four hours (this is true for ALL of the ECU compu networks) the circuits involved will lose their stored functional log history and default back to their factory settings; much like a windows laptop by turning it off and back on, or an ANDROID phone when you remove the battery, counting to ten and then replacing it!

You can still use the truck w/o the 30A fuse in the slot but you just won't have any audio including the GPS prompter! Once you're done you'll need to set-up the radio station presets, and I believe the compass circle calibration would need to be done but that's easy stuff; you'll find the setup in the manual in the glove box! Hope this helps Tom,

rig, cheers

Rig-

Do you have a fix for 2016 4R? I have a TE, and although most times my Android phone will connect automatically and work fine for phone calls, but using the Pandora piece of it and streaming audio stinks. It's in and out, choppy, and it only seems to work best if I completely unpair the phone from the car. It's a real PITA.
 
I have the same problem with my 2017 4runner Limited running an iPhone 6 and Entune app. When I leave the truck and my phone reconnects but plays audio in short bursts. Also, I have to sometimes reset the AV system by power off button on the head unit for 3s per the manual to make phone call. Turning the phone blue tooth off then on generally remedies the problem but not always. This phone connects to many other devices via bluetooth so I do not think it is the phone.

I am hesitant to pull the fuse and wipe the AV system because it has all my presets and XM info. Has anyone tried deleting the phone profile or uninstalling the Entune app? Also, does anyone else get the prompt for Entune wants to use data every time entering the truck? I find that equally annoying.
 
Fear not rocky.mtn lol!

First: Let me apologize for the delayed reply! I wasn't subscribed to this thread so there was no notification.When I saw your question for the 1'st time late last night (believe it or not) I was drafting a reply. when I neared the end of my, rather lengthy explanation, the page just went blank, so please forgive my delayed reply!

On 4Runners from 2010 to 2013, they'll be a fuse labeled 30A AMP fuse...AMP is short for Amplifier! It's GREEN, located in the center row of the box. This is the fuse that stays HOT AT ALL TIMES. It's how the vehicle is able to store data e.g., radio presets, compass calibration and so on.

Now just pulling that fuse out won't delete the info that's stored there; it has a buffer circuit for when a tech needs to disconnect the battery for a couple hrs to service the truck, so it can store intel for a few hours (2-3 hours). But to clear audio history logs you would need to remove this fuse for a minimum of four hours 'just to play it safe'.

When you de-energize that audio circuit for four hours (this is true for ALL of the ECU compu networks) the circuits involved will lose their stored functional log history and default back to their factory settings; much like a windows laptop by turning it off and back on, or an ANDROID phone when you remove the battery, counting to ten and then replacing it!

You can still use the truck w/o the 30A fuse in the slot but you just won't have any audio including the GPS prompter! Once you're done you'll need to set-up the radio station presets, and I believe the compass circle calibration would need to be done but that's easy stuff; you'll find the setup in the manual in the glove box! Hope this helps Tom,

rig, cheers

No worries - thanks for the detailed reply! My confusion stemmed from multiple 30A fuses, so I wanted to grab the right on. Will definitely try it this weekend and report back on my 2011 4Runner. Thanks again.
 
Rig-

Do you have a fix for 2016 4R? I have a TE, and although most times my Android phone will connect automatically and work fine for phone calls, but using the Pandora piece of it and streaming audio stinks. It's in and out, choppy, and it only seems to work best if I completely unpair the phone from the car. It's a real PITA.

Hi walstylez,

This "HARD REBOOT" of the Entune system and all ECU compu network servicing, work the very same way and have the very same needs... "Disconnect-n-reconnect"! The only serious changes may be the O.S. vers., so if you have a bad operating system version the Toyota service center would have to tell you what version is the very latest and is working the best; (hint) just because someone has the newest/latest O.S. doesn't mean that it works the best! So this reboot will work the same all the way up to the 2017 Toyota! Hope I answered your question lol!

rig, cheers
 

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