Red valve and EGR valve

[grousehunter 61]

I was on another Toyota site and mentioned that I had remover the EGR valve and the reed valve, blocked them off, blocked off the tubes going to the exhaust pipes and the vacuum lines. I was ask if I were smarter then the engineers of Toyota, I stated no, but as smart. Anybody on here remove those two valves ?? I have over 250 miles on it without the valves and its running very good and seems to be a lot quieter. Just asking......

 

[grousehunter 61]

Wow, 75 views and no words.......

 

[kc15842]

Wow, 75 views and no words.......

In Cali we can't so I made sure they were functional. Why remove? Anything to be gained?

 

[grousehunter 61]

Kevin, I was having a hard time sealing the pipes that are attached to the exhaust headers. I also had a valve cover oil leak on the passenger side so I had to pull the air chamber to get to it and of course all related attachments, reed valve and egr valve. The EGR valve has never been hooked up and the vacuum lines were blocked off, I was having a hard time getting the reed valve lined up with the headers, I checked to see what it did and found it just puts air into the exhaust system to reduce pollutants, which in my way of thinking is dumb, so I blocked off the openings in my header blocked any vacuum lines, made a gasket for the EGR valve hole in the air chamber and blocked any other openings. The big advantage as far as I am concerned is the spark plugs are out in the open and easy to change and I can see if the valve cover is leaking and it runs a lot quieter, no loss of power and just less crap to go wrong.....

 

[old87yota]

Well, putting fresh air into the exhaust may sound dumb, until you know what is actually going on.

The fresh air in the exhaust is not to dilute the exhaust to fool emissions, but as a simple way to introduce oxygen into the exhaust.

When you introduce oxygen into the exhaust, you help the catalytic converter convert the little bit of leftover un-burned fuel in the exhaust to much more desirable and less harmful molecules.

The reason you were asked if you were smarter as the engineers at Toyota was that Toyota designs the engines and engine computers to work with all systems that came with the engine.

Removing some systems from the engine has a potential to affect other parameters as pieces of the original design are now missing. This is most obvious when trying to modify a modern (past 10 years) car.

In reality, the systems you have removed do not alter the "performance" of the engine all that much, (although the EGR does keep combustion temperatures down) but no longer conforms to the emissions standards that Toyota designed this engine around, so emissions performance is reduced.

I really have never bought into the "remove it so I can see more of the engine bay and less can go wrong" crowd. If people really embraced that, they would all be driving bare bones Ford Model Ts.

Anyway, to each their own.

:fro:

 

[grousehunter 61]

old87yota, don't know where I could find a model t do you. If I had a catalytic converter I might think differently but I don't. When I installed the headers I removed the catalytic converter. During ww2 Japan had some very good airplanes, the only thing wrong is when the broke down , it was very hard to repair them and get then back in the air, reason, to many vacuum lines and to much went wrong. When my toy stopped running I determined it was something in the wiring system, I went to the fuse panel under the hood, checked the fuse and the fusible link, one of the links was broken but down inside and it could not be seen until I put a tester on it and it moved, replaced it still no fuel, pulled the dash and checked the COR relay, replaced it, still not working, ok must be the fuel pump, pulled the pump and replaced it, nothing. At this point I took it to a Toyota mech, he played with it for too days until he found it, Ready for this, there is a spring in the wire that connects to the fuel pump, if that spring falls out it won't make contact, no fuel.....now if that is not over engineering I don't know what is. My Camaro has an elect fuel pump, wire off the oil pressure switch to a relay that puts power to the fuel pump, can't get easier then that. I have been a mech all my life, crew chief on a B 47 bomber, worked with Rod Hall number 1 off road racer, retired working on mowers for a golf course, I modified everything I worked on. Some to make it work better, some just to get it to work. My motor home has 454 chevy in it, I pulled everything not needed to run, pulled the air conditioner, pulled the air pump. opened everything so air could flow, put a set of headers on it, MSD ignition, I get 11 mto12 mpg and it does not heat up, steepest hills, no problem, hottest days, no problem I extended the air filter to outside the engine bay. OK, some of the stuff I did is not legal in some states, but it works...... Thank you for replying....

 

[cap10]

Thats interesting stuff. I could never do it because I live in calif and have plans on getting my 1990 4runner smogged BUT I was wondering how it would run if a lot of that stuff was blocked off. Or if it would run at all !

I just did a total top end rebuild and even though it sounds great and runs good I am having a problem with it running rich at idle. I believe its all in the vac line placement but I cannot find a picture thats clear enough for me to get comfortable with using.
I thought about starting from scratch and plugging them all off just to see if it runs any better/different but I was not sure that it could even be done. Now I know ! Ha,Ha Thank you

 

[grousehunter 61]

Thats one of the advantages of living out in the bonnies. The Toy runs just great, I don't have enough miles to say if it helped or hurt mileage. but it runs great. I have had quite a lot of problems with this vehicle, mostly electrical and fuel. I feel those problems are over ( I hope ) It goes down the road at 65-70 no problem, took it up to 80 once just to see if it would do it. I am running a header system and a cold air system but a stock exhaust muffler, that will change as I have a flow max 40 sitting in the shop.

 

[O.B.A.K]

Took mine off with the egr delete.

I’m in the less stuff in the engine bay camp.

No emissions in AK so I also have a LC test pipe for a cat.

Downside of pretty rich exhaust fumigation with the right combination of windows down and speed.

 

[ev13wt]

Do not remove your EGR system, unless you like not passing emissions, ****ing with the computer that expects a bit of mix at the oxygen sensor, or hotter than usual exhaust temps. (Number 4 runs hot anyhow already in these engines)

If you want to try it out, cut a coke can and place it between plenum and egr.


There are no optional parts on a 22-RE, unless you know how to fool the computer correctly.

Missing number 3 ground wire (Firewall to head) will cause way more performance issues than anything you could remove to make "more power".

OEM cap and rotor? OEM wires? All grounds ok?

 

[ev13wt]

I just did a total top end rebuild and even though it sounds great and runs good I am having a problem with it running rich at idle. I believe its all in the vac line placement but I cannot find a picture thats clear enough for me to get comfortable with using.
I thought about starting from scratch and plugging them all off just to see if it runs any better/different but I was not sure that it could even be done. Now I know ! Ha,Ha Thank you

You can look at the sticker under your hood. Then go from system to system and mark a tiny dab of white out on the ones you already routed correctly.

Missing sticker? Go from system to system unsing the internet. 22reperformance.com haws some nice writeups / youtube vids on how to test various things.


First I would check if you are acutally idling, or just running the engine really slow. JUmp the test connector as if you want to adjust timing. Does the idle speed drop? Yes, continue elsewhere. No: adjust TPS.


A little air in the cooling system can keep an air pocket around the temp sender, it will always pump gas in via cold start injector and ignore the oxygen sensor.

 

[cap10]

Great info but I am a little confused about how you go about checking to see if my engine is at idle or not. IF it drops when I jump the connector then I am at idle already correct?