Kyle Reese
New member
Someone should post a DETAILED write up how to install new gears
Last edited:
Regear after 285's
- Thread starter Spish
- Start date
There is nothing even remotely brief about installing new gears.
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Kyle Reese
New member
I should've known...I have no idea about gears at all even what they look like... I just know I'll have to do it..
This is a very BAD place to start your mechanical endeavors.
For the record, lifted, armored, on 33s, felt great this weekend with 2 quads and a smaller trailer behind it. With my original 4:10's. MANUAL trans of course
I could actually feel the difference swapping to my 7 lb's a piece lighter wheels. I felt a difference when it was STOCK when the factory muffler was replaced for a free flowing aftermarket piece. I felt NO difference with the Injen CAI despite whatever bullshit the dyno sheet said.
Point being, there is some small things you can do/buy smarter initially, where you won't feel the sluggishness as severely and maybe save yourself re-gearing. I got just at 15.8 MPG while towing ~2000 lb's. Backed up by just under 21 MPG coming back empty.
Someone needs to learn how google works. Gear installation isn't 4Runner specific. There are things that apply to one axle that may not apply to the next, but since you know nothing about it why wouldn't you use the fact that you have access to all of the internet to get at least a general understanding?
BigFishAllDay
New member
Whoa, whoa guys, I got this.
These are gears...
Writeup:
1. Jack vehicle, remove wheels/tires, place jackstands.
2. Do some other stuff.
3. Remove old gears.
4. Install new gears. Do additional other stuff.
5. Re-install wheels/tires and lower vehicle.
Enjoy.
It's a piece of cake. Sticky?
These are gears...
Writeup:
1. Jack vehicle, remove wheels/tires, place jackstands.
2. Do some other stuff.
3. Remove old gears.
4. Install new gears. Do additional other stuff.
5. Re-install wheels/tires and lower vehicle.
Enjoy.
It's a piece of cake. Sticky?
Quoting an old post here, but really? Using you crawl box in parking lots?
I live close to sea level but my area is as mountainous as they come. Im going to duals this summer and I plan to run the 4.10 diff gears with 35's. Yeah it will stall easier on the street but it's not bad at all.
Hahahaha, hahahahaha.Whoa, whoa guys, I got this.
These are gears...
Writeup:
1. Jack vehicle, remove wheels/tires, place jackstands.
2. Do some other stuff.
3. Remove old gears.
4. Install new gears. Do additional other stuff.
5. Re-install wheels/tires and lower vehicle.
Enjoy.
It's a piece of cake. Sticky?
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Yeah really. Where I live traffic can be pretty bad. I drive a big rig for a living. The clutch in a big rig is basically an on/off switch. I'm soo use to it, it's hard for me not to drive a manual trans vehicle, any other way. My crawler rigs are the same way. In a crowded parking lot, drop the crawl box in low, and I don't have to slip the clutch as much. To each his own but I get a ton of miles out my clutches.
Kamikaze6rr
New member
What has been your off-road experience. I am in the same boat where I want to get 33" tires have 16 inch stock wheels, ready to lift and start wondering will I kill my transmission? will the stock gearing be able to turn these wheels? Do I have to re-gear? Should I stay 265 75/16 and just get a slight lift and better tires and call it a day. Don't plan to do huge rock crawling but plan to do some. Live int he Carolinas and wonder how bad can it get? also we have to keep in mind my Nads are still small too with this off-roading deal
Got about 4k budget but if this is not really worth it, then maybe I just stay stock.
Got about 4k budget but if this is not really worth it, then maybe I just stay stock.
VernySanders
New member
you can upgrade the tires to 33's with stock gearing. OEM gearing is incredibly tough. regardless of 4.10s or 4.30s you'll turn a 33 inch tire no issues. However, gears come into play when you want to turn a 33 inch tire WELL and not just turn it. Going to a 5.29 gives you substantially more low end torque at the wheel while offroading, especially in a climbing situation. New or rebuilt diffs from a company are way overpriced (IMO). It is actually not difficult at all to setup a diff. especially these toyota ones. Do some research, buy a press from harbor freight, use a flapper wheel on a die grinder to flap out the old inner races in order to use them to press on the new carrier bearings. Depending on the setup you choose, you can do this for 800 - 1000 for a quality kit. using all oem toyota parts. I have a writeup of part numbers for the oem parts.
You can find those part numbers here.
Mtn. Runner
New member
I just got my 285/75/16 Yokohama MT’s installed and city driving hasn’t changed much over the 265/75/16’s but it is noticeable. Up in the mountain passes I was already hunting down into 3rd gear with a manual transmission with the 265’s , so I’m sure the 285’s will be even worse. Not sure whether I have 4:10 or 4:30 gears but either way I don’t think it warrants lower gears for 285’s
UnderFire
New member
I'm personally amazed by the amount of people who struggle or have complaints about driving with factory gears and 285's. In any configuration 285's do not require or warrant a regear in any way. There just isn't enough of a difference in size to justify the cost and it's not really going to be beneficial. Some people have even suggested 5.29 which is 100% rediculous.
Rigs have been daily driven for years on 37"+ tires with a lot less horsepower and torque (see 22R) with no issues using 4.88 gears, typically 5.29's put you in the 40" range to retain stock type drivability.
I have driven and owned all possible configurations of the 3rd gen 4runner and 1st gen tacoma. The only one that is not feasibly capable of running a 35" tire on factory gearing is the early standard cab 3RZ 5 speed, only due to extremely poor 3.58 gearing and tiny 225/75R15 from the factory.
Too often you set expectations too high. It's simple physics, bolt on bigger, heavier wheels and tires, add other weight, acceleration and braking will have to decline a bit. Chasing your tail to get back to the meager to begin with baseline of a factory 3rd gen is a waste of time, and in some cases thousands of dollars.
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Rigs have been daily driven for years on 37"+ tires with a lot less horsepower and torque (see 22R) with no issues using 4.88 gears, typically 5.29's put you in the 40" range to retain stock type drivability.
I have driven and owned all possible configurations of the 3rd gen 4runner and 1st gen tacoma. The only one that is not feasibly capable of running a 35" tire on factory gearing is the early standard cab 3RZ 5 speed, only due to extremely poor 3.58 gearing and tiny 225/75R15 from the factory.
Too often you set expectations too high. It's simple physics, bolt on bigger, heavier wheels and tires, add other weight, acceleration and braking will have to decline a bit. Chasing your tail to get back to the meager to begin with baseline of a factory 3rd gen is a waste of time, and in some cases thousands of dollars.
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Kamikaze6rr
New member
Stick to offroad
I thank everyone for the input. I ride mountain bike. Single speed and hard tail and I understand that bigger heavier wheels and tires make it harder to accelerate and stop.
Just wondering do I need bigger tires or could I just get better tires and a lift. I live in North Carolina and wonder if there is a base level I can get to to be able to tackle 85% of the trail without too much trouble. New to the game so I can read and read but would love a list of “first things to do”. Ride at hurricane creek Sunday stock and didn’t bottom out on anything, but felt like I can do some mods to make the 4runner have better clearances and easier to climb over obstacles. Tire spin/loss of traction was a big deal at times and then worrying about hitting hard parts underneath was another.
I thank everyone for the input. I ride mountain bike. Single speed and hard tail and I understand that bigger heavier wheels and tires make it harder to accelerate and stop.
Just wondering do I need bigger tires or could I just get better tires and a lift. I live in North Carolina and wonder if there is a base level I can get to to be able to tackle 85% of the trail without too much trouble. New to the game so I can read and read but would love a list of “first things to do”. Ride at hurricane creek Sunday stock and didn’t bottom out on anything, but felt like I can do some mods to make the 4runner have better clearances and easier to climb over obstacles. Tire spin/loss of traction was a big deal at times and then worrying about hitting hard parts underneath was another.
VernySanders
New member
Might do a cheap bilstein 5100 lift with some different rear springs and if you want physically more clearance maybe a 1 inch body lift. That setup will still ride like stock and if you get bigger tires you'll be adding even more ride height. Seems like with your goals that would be the most budget friendly route without spending 5 to 10k on long travel or rock crawl setups
UnderFire
New member
Bumpers are one way to gain approach and departure angle, especially the front bumper. Still going to add weight and not be for everyone, but if I'm doing any wheeling that there's a possibility of bottoming out, I want to have some armor anyway.
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