Relay help

810moto

New member
Ok, so I am not an electrical smart guy but I can figure most stuff out.
Question is, what is the sole purpose of running a relay? I am installing a Blue Sea 6 circuit under the hood and can't figure out what size inline fuse to put before it and if or why i should run a relay with it also.

Thanks in advance for your help.
 
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Ok, so I am not an electrical smart guy but I can figure most stuff out.
Question is, what is the sole purpose of running a relay? The primary purpose is to turn high draw items items on and off with little, light-weight switches and skinny wires. I am installing a Blue Sea 6 circuit under the hood and can't figure out what size inline fuse to put before it and if or why i should run a relay with it also.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Is this the one? Detailed Specifications for 6 Circuit - PN 2406 - Blue Sea Systems If so a slo-blow 20amp would be ideal for the inline fuse.


What are you trying to hook up?
 
I currently have just some stealth rear lights and my 200w forward lights but plan on hooking up an onboard air compressor and 4 more front lights. I figure that should be enough to fill the 100amp load on the fuse block.
I see people putting upwards of 40-100 inline fuses with relays. I just don't fully understand the relay purpose.
 
The product CJ linked is really just a fancy splice connection. Relays may or may not be needed depending on what you have on a particular circuit. Even with a relay, you'll need fuses...they serve very different purposes. And without at least a switch, an attached device will always be on if you wire that strip directly to the battery.

The easiest example is probably headlights. The switch on the dash is simply too small to handle the kind of current drawn by headlights. Not to mention the hassle of running appropriate sized wiring from the underhood distribution block to the dashboard and then back to the lights. So, instead, you have a relay underhood that normally leaves the headlight circuit open. Turn the *low* voltage switch in the dash to on, and that low voltage (with small wires) closes the relay thereby completing the high power circuit for the headlights.

Most likely, you're seeing people put one relay between the battery and distribution strip to power the whole thing since a basic 12v switch would be too small. Then, depending on what's on each circuit, there will either be a relay or switch to that specific device.

Fuses are just there to blow if something draws too much current...essentially sacrificial pieces of "wire". A switch or relay will simply pass whatever current it sees until it melts, but usually by that point you're burning wire insulation and potentially the whole vehicle. Properly fusing the line for the load and wire size as close to the power source as possible helps avoid this situation.

-Brent
 
The product CJ linked is really just a fancy splice connection. Relays may or may not be needed depending on what you have on a particular circuit. Even with a relay, you'll need fuses...they serve very different purposes. And without at least a switch, an attached device will always be on if you wire that strip directly to the battery.

The easiest example is probably headlights. The switch on the dash is simply too small to handle the kind of current drawn by headlights. Not to mention the hassle of running appropriate sized wiring from the underhood distribution block to the dashboard and then back to the lights. So, instead, you have a relay underhood that normally leaves the headlight circuit open. Turn the *low* voltage switch in the dash to on, and that low voltage (with small wires) closes the relay thereby completing the high power circuit for the headlights.

Most likely, you're seeing people put one relay between the battery and distribution strip to power the whole thing since a basic 12v switch would be too small. Then, depending on what's on each circuit, there will either be a relay or switch to that specific device.

Fuses are just there to blow if something draws too much current...essentially sacrificial pieces of "wire". A switch or relay will simply pass whatever current it sees until it melts, but usually by that point you're burning wire insulation and potentially the whole vehicle. Properly fusing the line for the load and wire size as close to the power source as possible helps avoid this situation.

-Brent
Dang Brent, you laid that sucker out pretty good. Now if I understand it correctly, there is not a real need for relays if the inline fuses are of proper sizes and wire is big enough. I always use bigger wire than what is called for. Never less than 12awg, grounds are ALWAYS 10 or 8 guage (thanks just me).
 
Relays can be also used to switch polarity. Like some alarm auxilary outputs, they only send out a negative signal. This would not work for some things like trunk release actulators.

The other as riverwolf mentioned is to operate or activate an accessory that requires high current draw. But you can turn on that accessory without running heavier gauge wires and a switch capable of handling the amperage.

But in the simplest term, they're just a switch that requires very low amperage to activate.
 
Dang Brent, you laid that sucker out pretty good. Now if I understand it correctly, there is not a real need for relays if the inline fuses are of proper sizes and wire is big enough. I always use bigger wire than what is called for. Never less than 12awg, grounds are ALWAYS 10 or 8 guage (thanks just me).

As long as you want the attached device(s) to have power available *all* of the time, then technically, you are correct. But, you're dependent on remembering to turn the device(s) off manually to avoid killing your battery unless you run through a relay that's at least linked to ACC on/off. How do you plan to turn those extra lights on/off? Same as headlights, you'll need a low voltage switch to trigger the high voltage switch (relay). Even if you don't put a relay in front of your distribution point, you'll likely need them between the distribution point and the devices.

Relays are neither expensive or all that complicated so I'm not sure why you're trying so hard to avoid using them.

-Brent
 
@ Brent. Im not trying to aviod using the relays by anymeans, they just confuse me even in their simplest form thats all.
I do thank all who have chimed in on this. Guess having the relays is simpler than I thought.

Thanks again to all!
 

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