relay, switch, lightbar, confusion, help.

[ddnww]

finally installing my lightbar,hanma 30".
I have confused the crap out of myself.
I have a spst relay, and a Carling contura 2 switch I believe.
It has 5pins. 2,3,6,7,8.
How the hell do I wire this up.
Can someone please show me in kindergarten format.

Oh, and how do you take the plastic covers off the roof rack corners

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

This is a very good write-up for starters.

DIY: Wiring after-market lights - Tacoma World Forums

And this post (same thread) shows a diagram of what is explained in the OP.

DIY: Wiring after-market lights - Page 3 - Tacoma World Forums

You should have received a pinout sheet with the switch, something like this:

http://www.otrattw.com/J66a.pdf

If you want your new switch to dim with the factory switches, you will need to find the positive and negative for the dimming circuit on a nearby switch. You will tap the positive wire and connect to pin 6, and tap the negative and connect to pin 7. Pin 8 will connect to a nearby ground.

8 - Upper light Neg (-) - connect to a nearby ground
7 - Lower light Neg (-) - connect to ground wire of dimmer circuit
2 - Incoming from power source - I use a add a circuit to tap into an existing fuse. I use one that is only on when the key is on (so you can't accidentally leave the light bar on).
3 - Outgoing - to relay, accessory, or equip.
6 - Lower light Pos (+) - connect to positive of dimmer circuit

This is a overview of what needs to happen. If you have questions on any specific part, let me know and I'll try to explain further.

On the roof rack corners, my suggestion is very carefully. They break pretty easily. There are 4 tabs (2 on each side) that hold it on. I took a small screw driver and gently pried out/up to release the tabs. I did get a little impatient and several of mine broke, so again, be careful with this and don't force it.

 

[ddnww]

This is a very good write-up for starters.

DIY: Wiring after-market lights - Tacoma World Forums

And this post (same thread) shows a diagram of what is explained in the OP.

DIY: Wiring after-market lights - Page 3 - Tacoma World Forums

You should have received a pinout sheet with the switch, something like this:

http://www.otrattw.com/J66a.pdf

If you want your new switch to dim with the factory switches, you will need to find the positive and negative for the dimming circuit on a nearby switch. You will tap the positive wire and connect to pin 6, and tap the negative and connect to pin 7. Pin 8 will connect to a nearby ground.

8 - Upper light Neg (-) - connect to a nearby ground
7 - Lower light Neg (-) - connect to ground wire of dimmer circuit
2 - Incoming from power source - I use a add a circuit to tap into an existing fuse. I use one that is only on when the key is on (so you can't accidentally leave the light bar on).
3 - Outgoing - to relay, accessory, or equip.
6 - Lower light Pos (+) - connect to positive of dimmer circuit

This is a overview of what needs to happen. If you have questions on any specific part, let me know and I'll try to explain further.

On the roof rack corners, my suggestion is very carefully. They break pretty easily. There are 4 tabs (2 on each side) that hold it on. I took a small screw driver and gently pried out/up to release the tabs. I did get a little impatient and several of mine broke, so again, be careful with this and don't force it.

thanks, I ended up figuring it out last night,I appreciate the trouble you went thru to help me out. Hopefully this will help another member out in the future

 

[HHIRunner]

ok so if I wanted to do this in the simplest way possible, Would i be able to go from the negative on the lights to ground, positive on the lights to switch, positive on switch to a fuse, and negative on switch to ground? All I have are 4 pods so I don't think that's enough power to need a relay.

Sort of like that?

 

[ebg18t]

I would always use a relay.

 

[zopperman]

I would always use a relay.

Yeah, I generally follow this rule too... but these only draw 1.5 A at 12V...

and HHI what's the diamond?

 

[HHIRunner]

Yeah, I generally follow this rule too... but these only draw 1.5 A at 12V...

and HHI what's the diamond?

Thats the switch

 

[zopperman]

Thats the switch

A switch with 4 + outputs? If it were me I'd probably wire all 4 lights in series and just have a bus bar or something

more like this

 

[RCs4Runner]

A switch with 4 + outputs? If it were me I'd probably wire all 4 lights in series and just have a bus bar or something

more like this

Why would you want to wire 4 separate pre-built off-road lights in series?

Wire them in parallel like the picture above that way if one fails the other 3 will still light up.

 

[HHIRunner]

A switch with 4 + outputs? If it were me I'd probably wire all 4 lights in series and just have a bus bar or something

more like this

alright that looks easier, what would I be looking for to buy a relay?

 

[zopperman]

Why would you want to wire 4 separate pre-built off-road lights in series?

Wire them in parallel like the picture above that way if one fails the other 3 will still light up.

My bad, i meant parallel, it's been a long day :cheers:

alright that looks easier, what would I be looking for to buy a relay?

just any spst relay from autozone will work

 

[HHIRunner]

My bad, i meant parallel, it's been a long day :cheers:



just any spst relay from autozone will work

so something like this?
Duralast/12 Volts accessory power relay (20027) | Relay and Resistors | AutoZone.com

 

[RCs4Runner]

My bad, i meant parallel, it's been a long day :cheers:

It's all good...I've been there many times before.

so something like this?
Duralast/12 Volts accessory power relay (20027) | Relay and Resistors | AutoZone.com

WHOA $26!!!

Just get a $3-$5 12V / 30amp / 5 pin relay. You won't need to use the center pin.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=330-073

Also get a relay socket harness to make the wiring nice and neat. They're around $2 or so.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=330-075

 

[zopperman]

...]

yep, exactly how I'd do it. I'm not convinced that these need a relay though. Use a 20A switch and some 14G wire and I think you'd be ok... but then again why not use a relay its cheap enough

 

[gshadow325]

A switch with 4 + outputs? If it were me I'd probably wire all 4 lights in series and just have a bus bar or something

more like this

i know this response is old but lot easier way.

-only one wire to lights
-no load groung thru switch
-one wire coming from relay
-easier to find a ground near switch
-only 3 wires going to relay vs 4

 

[JustSomeName]

This is a very good write-up for starters.

DIY: Wiring after-market lights - Tacoma World Forums

And this post (same thread) shows a diagram of what is explained in the OP.

DIY: Wiring after-market lights - Page 3 - Tacoma World Forums

You should have received a pinout sheet with the switch, something like this:

http://www.otrattw.com/J66a.pdf

If you want your new switch to dim with the factory switches, you will need to find the positive and negative for the dimming circuit on a nearby switch. You will tap the positive wire and connect to pin 6, and tap the negative and connect to pin 7. Pin 8 will connect to a nearby ground.

8 - Upper light Neg (-) - connect to a nearby ground
7 - Lower light Neg (-) - connect to ground wire of dimmer circuit
2 - Incoming from power source - I use a add a circuit to tap into an existing fuse. I use one that is only on when the key is on (so you can't accidentally leave the light bar on).
3 - Outgoing - to relay, accessory, or equip.
6 - Lower light Pos (+) - connect to positive of dimmer circuit

This is a overview of what needs to happen. If you have questions on any specific part, let me know and I'll try to explain further.

On the roof rack corners, my suggestion is very carefully. They break pretty easily. There are 4 tabs (2 on each side) that hold it on. I took a small screw driver and gently pried out/up to release the tabs. I did get a little impatient and several of mine broke, so again, be careful with this and don't force it.

In the same situation (just picked up a 30 inch dual row light bar from ebay) and i have a couple questions

The ad said it is 180W and 10-30V DC

given the information above (watts & voltage), how do i know what size fuse to get for the light?

and how do i know which relay to get? i understand that a relay can only support a certain amount of amps, how do i know what i need?

 

[zopperman]

In the same situation (just picked up a 30 inch dual row light bar from ebay) and i have a couple questions

The ad said it is 180W and 10-30V DC

given the information above (watts & voltage), how do i know what size fuse to get for the light?

and how do i know which relay to get? i understand that a relay can only support a certain amount of amps, how do i know what i need?

180W operating at 12V = 180/12 = 15amps. More likely the battery is running closer to 14 and you dont have an inline VR for the light bar, so 180/14 = 12.8, though if voltage dips below 12 you may blow a 15a fuse, that is probably what I would do.

 

[JustSomeName]

180W operating at 12V = 180/12 = 15amps. More likely the battery is running closer to 14 and you dont have an inline VR for the light bar, so 180/14 = 12.8, though if voltage dips below 12 you may blow a 15a fuse, that is probably what I would do.

so if the light is running about 12-15amps, id put a 15a fuse on it? does it hurt to add one higher? say like a 20 or 30?

 

[ebg18t]

so if the light is running about 12-15amps, id put a 15a fuse on it? does it hurt to add one higher? say like a 20 or 30?

My understanding is you want to run the smallest fuse possible.

I have:
2 led pods at 2.08A = 4.16A
1 20" LED bar at 4.6A
Total = 8.76A

I am running a 10 amp fuse in my BlueSea fuse box that handles these 3 lights. Other than for a bad Relay on the pods, everything been working perfect.

If my understanding of this is wrong, please correct me.

 

[zopperman]

so if the light is running about 12-15amps, id put a 15a fuse on it? does it hurt to add one higher? say like a 20 or 30?

My understanding is you want to run the smallest fuse possible.

I have:
2 led pods at 2.08A = 4.16A
1 20" LED bar at 4.6A
Total = 8.76A

I am running a 10 amp fuse in my BlueSea fuse box that handles these 3 lights. Other than for a bad Relay on the pods, everything been working perfect.

If my understanding of this is wrong, please correct me.

ebg is right (even if he won't make a damn build thread) you risk damaging the components if the fuse is too big, it won't do its job.