remove cone washers from flange - aluminum scrap and itty peeny hammer

gtgt_bangbang

New member
ah can not believe the FSM wants you to balance a brass drift on those round (intentionally ?) end bolts when jolting the cone washers securing the flange on.

forget hammering my thumb I'd be still going coconutnuts resetting the drift on center if I happened to even have a brass drift.
warning, threat detected, tool I dont have ... must ... catch ... drift

seems afar easier to use a wee strip of 1/4 aluminum , hammered flat on with mooch gusto.
By keeping My hand well back out of the way , protects the Stud and oh that threaded thing too .

balancing the Al strip on the adjacent stud helped square

still amazes me that hammering that stud pops out a cone washer, a couple with some reluctance, mindu.

it seems like another way to ring it free would be tap the flange plate with a socket big enough and in control so the washer isn't dinged.
didn't think ot try it in time so I don't know if it'll work.

seemed not so much in how hard to hit it but how aligned, the strap square and hammer landing head on & fast to go into a ringing resonance , could feel it when every bit of force went straight down the stub making them just popped out

its actually amazing how that all the further you have to go to pull that end of an axle shaft. the back side of the tulip in mine had popped out and the grease looked too sploogy. screw it, it looked original and 20, which is like 67 in dog years , and the other side had already been done by the DPO so there goes another $45 down on the 4player.

getting a kick outta how toy does this 4runner, just little stuf, twerky differences from other makes even other toys ive worked on, example oddly elaborate bracketry, hose.

in general this g-g-generation looks like a bowl of noodles undr the hood specially compared to next gen, which I saw one tday, looked wholly cleaner under there .

Thats wild; to have a capable road toolkit 4 the runner, requires a generic flat of drift metal and niblick of a hammer.
takes ya back to shifting with vice grips
 

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Aluminum or brass, doesn't matter, as long as it's softer than the steel studs so the studs don't get damaged.
 
I just use a brass hammer. No fingers any where near there.

Little heat goes a long way too when they are being stubborn.
 
lets not drift, off topic

Its not the fact I used aluminum instead of brass,
(although in my tool box, scrap Al plate is more common that any kind of brass.

and yes I understand the goal is to hammer a shock into the stud with out ruining the threads.


But for a couple reasons, I heartily disagree with using a rod or punch like the FSM shows.

I had to hit my none-too-corroded studs each from somewhere between 5 to 50 times to jounce out the cones. Hit it like I loved it too, you know with feeling, little tappy tap lilly dipping warn't cutting it.

I am more than sure that if I used a straight-on rod as a drift, I would have a bruised hand and pleasant memories of how much I hate this job, as I'm not that good a hammer driving man crouched under a wheel well.

What I am saying is , with a 1/4 Al plate, about 1 inch wide and a foot long, I can deliver more force without sacrificing my hitchhiking equipment, can hit the damn thing as hard as I can muster near zero chance of missing into the base of my thumb. NOthin too magic about that size, but thinner plate would have wrapped around the stud making it hard to use, while thick would just be showing off.

Whats more , the flat strap can be steadied on an adjacent stud, helping prevent a slip off that might allow the hammer to maul the thread.

Strap provides good sensory feedback too, as you WILL KNOW when you didnt hit the stud dead center and straight in, and the strap will react in your hand, unpleasant but a mile better than missing with the rod. Once Igot all in tune with postion and direction, those washers seems to pop up like daisies.

plus you got to admit the strap wont roll 3 miles down the steep mountain side when I do this in the boonies, I'd still be chasing the rod while curing my sore thumb bone if I was a toyota manual muppet
 
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yeah I understand the brute force approach, but its policy around here that A Repair should leave behind LESS damage than leaving the problem slide another day.
 
the brass hammer might well do fine, but I have 1 inch square target for my cheepazz pre-electricity hammer and piece of scrap.

Hitting the stub directly reduces the target maybe 7 fold, and misses ruin that cute lil golden lady hammmer.

pardon me if Iam dubious about being able to heat that massive hub to a temperature that means anything at all, without welding something shut

and yes , this IS my tolerant side lol
 
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Brass schmass, I just smack the shit out of the side of the hub. Got a bunch of flat spots on it now. :D

yup, this is how I do it. works every time without fail.
I only advice, when going this route, to leave the nut partially threaded on, otherwise the cone becomes a deadly projectile.
 
yup, this is how I do it. works every time without fail.
I only advice, when going this route, to leave the nut partially threaded on, otherwise the cone becomes a deadly projectile.

Yup. I lost a cone once, I always leave the nuts threaded on now.
 
a drift in a see

I used the flat whacker stick drift on my FIXED hub / flanges. I confess now that it wont work well on a unlocking hub, being deeper / more recessed.

Oh didn't I mention I found some Aisin hubs for a relative song. yeah babee. Up MY MPG will ya .. growlll!

So evidently I'm in the market for a brass shaft to match my yarbles.
Mine's gonna be trick though, solder a collar on the drift to keep it from ... are you ready ... from DRIFTING snorksnork.



To apologize for my only partially useful tip, I offer yet another;

Going to set the preload on the hub bearings,

FSM says spec is 6.4 to 12.6 lbf. at break-free ( measured CW, pulling a wheel stud tangentially or at 90degs to spindle/lug line)

Im not fooled by the cheap fishing scales ( probably accurate at 10lbf ... +/- 10 lbf) so I'll hang a milk jug or two (for water) or coffee can (if nuts & bolts or rocks from the tire treads) from a coat hanger wrapped around one of the lugs, and fill it till it busts a move.

Stop and weigh the whole rig at that point on a decent little scale.

Hard to argue that would hang at 90deg to properly located (horizontal) spindle-lug line.

Laugh it up; it seems I had that argument about torquing 300 ftlb axle nuts by standing one footed on a breaker bar at the correct distance for my weight ( thank god I had to stand MORE than 1 foot from center) and yet I survived. I propped the extension & socket on a jack stand. For any one doubting the Power of Newton, Torque is one of those force x distance things T = F x d ; as in
200 pounds standing at 1.5 foot from the center of rotation would equal the 300 ft lb. no bouncing :bluejump:
 
But those fine lookin dented-all-the-hell marks match the rock scrapes on my wheels!

4Crawler has another method for setting bearing preload - it's a little less finicky than the FSM procedure, and it's worked great for me several times. Toyota Front Axle Rebuild
 
woteva works

heres how I determined my hub preload was spot on the money yesterday.
What was 4crawlers method ? wiggle and tighten until it wiggle no mo?

I lifted the scale until the wheel broke free & rotated, with an eye on the scale.

surprisingly repeatable and smack in spec range center. Now I have to find a whole nother reason to tear into the hub bearings for some sweet creamy lube & seals. OH I got it ! I'll do it now cos its a stone beetch to take out the shafts after the diff goes back in.

Now be sure the tare the scale WITH the scraper on it lol, we dont want no 20 gram errors .

Now I cant believe Toyo wants you to break into the hydraulic lines just to pull the caliper off. Thats jap engineering for ya.
 

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well sure theres the easy way ...

yup I know a spring scale works great in theory (since I only catfish, and they dont have scales. ) ... so I dont have one and since I'm moving to warmer digs, I have LOTS of ice scrapers left over .... sukkas !

thought about slotting that bracket too but for ma trucks 10 year anniversary I'm springing for new brake lines, just this once by happystance.

The worst thing about breaking down on the trail is I bet rockauto can't deliver to GPS co-ordinates.
 
heres how I determined my hub preload was spot on the money yesterday.

Good idea.

Yeah, I bought a fish scale at Dicks SG and checked it with a 5lb bag of sugar. Forget how far it was off but it was quite a bit. Returned and got a digital luggale scale by American Scale and Weight or something like that for under $15 online. Can weigh luggage before flying too! No more coming in at 51lbs and having to transfer the whips and leather to carryon in front of the entire airport.
 
the sugar can be off too. Measure out a gallon of water, thats harder to fake
8.34 lbs 3785 grammies, 3.78 Kg

and I try to do the re-pack of shame, although proudly, in front of the sky waitress.
Either she loathes me for an hour or love me long time. Went thru security once with a gun box loaded with sex toys that naturally required hand check. TSA got boner I got a laugh.
 
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