Removing 3rd member from housing

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

So I finally found a sufficient rear axle housing asy to replace my leaking housing. It came from a 97 SR5 with a elocker and a 5spd. I have an auto so it has 4.10 gearing. Anyways I want to swap my 3rd member in and I cannot get the 3rd member out of the housing. I have both axle shafts removed, all the nuts off and that sucker's not budging. I read somewhere that you have to remove the actuator and lock the dif or else it wont come out. Is this true? I can't even get the actuator off so I just wanted to make sure I'm not missing something. Thanks in advance.

 

[MStudt]

You need to remove the motor assembly, and move the e-locker engagement towards the center of the 3rd member (use a flat tip screwdriver). You shafts need to be out at least 2" to clear every, but I think yours are completely out. After that you should be able to remove the 3rd member.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

You need to remove the motor assembly, and move the e-locker engagement towards the center of the 3rd member (use a flat tip screwdriver). You shafts need to be out at least 2" to clear every, but I think yours are completely out. After that you should be able to remove the 3rd member.

The motor asy is held in only by those two long studs correct? Remove the nuts then there's just a round piece recessed into the 3rd member with some sort of O-ring sealing it? I have the nuts off and have hit the motor outward of the studs using a brass drift. Haven't hit it too hard as I'm afraid I'll break something. Thanks for the quick response MSstudt. I'd like to get this thing apart tonight and get it all sandbalasted and painted ASAP.

 

[MStudt]

The motor asy is held in only by those two long studs correct? Remove the nuts then there's just a round piece recessed into the 3rd member with some sort of O-ring sealing it? I have the nuts off and have hit the motor outward of the studs using a brass drift. Haven't hit it too hard as I'm afraid I'll break something. Thanks for the quick response MSstudt. I'd like to get this thing apart tonight and get it all sandbalasted and painted ASAP.

Take the 2 nuts off and the cover will come off. Once you disconnect the wires you should be able to pull the motor out. It shouldn't be too hard to pull out. Try hitting to motor around the sides, this might help to free it up some.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Take the 2 nuts off and the cover will come off. Once you disconnect the wires you should be able to pull the motor out. It shouldn't be too hard to pull out. Try hitting to motor around the sides, this might help to free it up some.

Ok, just to clarify, The cover you're talking about is the protective cover because that came off when I removed a short bolt on the front of the motor although maybe one of the stud nuts was holding it on too. I've removed that one short bolt and 2 nuts on the studs.
And the wires your talking about are the two plug connections? I only ask because I've seen some taking that the cup shaped cover off (where a couple of wires go into the motor) Sorry if I'm asking stupid questions, I just want to be sure we're talking about the same components. Thanks.

 

[steezemcqueen]

You dont need to remove the motor from the diff. The diff just needs to be unlocked.
Smack the diff a few times with a mallet to break the seal. If it was installed last with RTV, its gonna be stuck pretty damn well.

 

[MStudt]

Ok, just to clarify, The cover you're talking about is the protective cover because that came off when I removed a short bolt on the front of the motor although maybe one of the stud nuts was holding it on too. I've removed that one short bolt and 2 nuts on the studs.
And the wires your talking about are the two plug connections? I only ask because I've seen some taking that the cup shaped cover off (where a couple of wires go into the motor) Sorry if I'm asking stupid questions, I just want to be sure we're talking about the same components. Thanks.

Correct. Remove the 2 plug connectors, and the bolts holding the motor in. Also make sure to slide the gear towards the 3rd member. The first time I tried removing one I didn't do it, and it was a pain to remove after that. Some people say you don't have to remove the motor, but I sure in hell couldn't.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

You dont need to remove the motor from the diff. The diff just needs to be unlocked.
Smack the diff a few times with a mallet to break the seal. If it was installed last with RTV, its gonna be stuck pretty damn well.

I'm not 100% sure the dif was unlocked as the donor vehicle was dead. Any way I can verify that? Yeah, I know, I probably have to remove the motor. I hit the dif with a 5lb sledge hammer multiple times pretty f%$king hard with wood to protect it and it didn't budge. Maybe some heat might help? :flamethrwoer2:

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Correct. Remove the 2 plug connectors, and the bolts holding the motor in. Also make sure to slide the gear towards the 3rd member. The first time I tried removing one I didn't do it, and it was a pain to remove after that. Some people say you don't have to remove the motor, but I sure in hell couldn't.

Ok, thanks again, I try again tonight. On a side note, I will be selling this 3rd with an elocker 4.10 gears if anyone's interested. If I ever get it off however.

 

[steezemcqueen]

I'm not 100% sure the dif was unlocked as the donor vehicle was dead. Any way I can verify that? Yeah, I know, I probably have to remove the motor. I hit the dif with a 5lb sledge hammer multiple times pretty f%$king hard with wood to protect it and it didn't budge. Maybe some heat might help? :flamethrwoer2:

put the axles back in and spin the wheel. if the other wheel spins the opposite way, its unlocked. if it spins the same way, its locked.

double check that all the nuts are removed. You may need to get something in there to pry it off.

just to confirm, its still completely stuck to the housing right?

 

[MStudt]

put the axles back in and spin the wheel. if the other wheel spins the opposite way, its unlocked. if it spins the same way, its locked.

double check that all the nuts are removed. You may need to get something in there to pry it off.

just to confirm, its still completely stuck to the housing right?

Ok, thanks again, I try again tonight. On a side note, I will be selling this 3rd with an elocker 4.10 gears if anyone's interested. If I ever get it off however.

It doesn't matter if it's locked or not. Once you remove the motor you can manual lock it and unlock it by moving the engagement fork with a screwdriver. That's also a handy trick for the trail in case the motor craps out.

As steez said, that silicone is going to be pretty solid at this point. You might need to pry it a little to get under it.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

put the axles back in and spin the wheel. if the other wheel spins the opposite way, its unlocked. if it spins the same way, its locked.

double check that all the nuts are removed. You may need to get something in there to pry it off.

just to confirm, its still completely stuck to the housing right?

Yep stuck to the housing. I'm sure I got all the nuts off, but I will quadruple check. The two on the studs and all the others all the way around the dif including the one that's a little hidden by the top of the motor. I tried hammering a cold chisel in between the housing and dif - no go. Also, used my little Snap On hammer end crow bar - no go. I'll keep at it. You guys gave me some good tips. Nothing's ever easy for me. I'll post back when I get it off. Thanks again.