Removing Rusted/Rounded Head Bolts

gergg

New member
Yes, I looked on Youtube and found great ideas on how to remove rusted/rounded/stripped bolt heads and nuts....But, wanted to see what I could come up with here. My dang skid plate has bolts that are recessed inside the access holes and rounded from previous attempts to remove them, they are also a bit rusted so I'm sure that is making it more difficult as well. Besides a last ditch effort of cutting the skid plate off or grinding the bolt heads off I am stumped. Any thoughts are appreciated. I'm trying to install my SS 1.2 tomorrow and I know I need to get the plate off to lower the front diff. FYI....I tried some of those extractor sockets from Harbor freight to remove these types of rounded bolt heads but they didn't work either.
 
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Yes, I looked on Youtube and found great ideas on how to remove rusted/rounded/stripped bolt heads and nuts....But, wanted to see what I could come up with here. My dang skid plate has bolts that are recessed inside the access holes and rounded from previous attempts to remove them, they are also a bit rusted so I'm sure that is making it more difficult as well. Besides a last ditch effort of cutting the skid plate off or grinding the bolt heads off I am stumped. Any thoughts are appreciated. I'm trying to install my SS 1.2 tomorrow and I know I need to get the plate off to lower the front diff. FYI....I tried some of those extractor sockets from Harbor freight to remove these types of rounded bolt heads but they didn't work either.

Find yourself a 12 point socket that is just too small to fit onto the rounded bolt head- doesn't matter if it's SAE or metric. Heat the bolt with a torch until it's red-hot. Hammer the socket onto the bolt head and let it cool for a few minutes. Remove the bolt. I've removed many rusted exhaust bolts this way!
 
Find yourself a 12 point socket that is just too small to fit onto the rounded bolt head- doesn't matter if it's SAE or metric. Heat the bolt with a torch until it's red-hot. Hammer the socket onto the bolt head and let it cool for a few minutes. Remove the bolt. I've removed many rusted exhaust bolts this way!

Will my little blue propane bottle/torch be hot enough?
 
Will my little blue propane bottle/torch be hot enough?

An acetylene torch would be better because the heat is concentrated more, but you should be able to make do I would think!

Worth a try because it's gonna be a pain grinding in those holes, right?
 
An acetylene torch would be better because the heat is concentrated more, but you should be able to make do I would think!

Worth a try because it's gonna be a pain grinding in those holes, right?

Funny thing is I have Acetylene/Oxygen bottles and torch in the shop, but I haven't used them in 25 years, can't even remember those days.....built an airboat from scratch as young man in Florida, welded stainless headers with it too, which I remember was quite interesting. I know it wouldn't take long to figure it out again, but I might try the propane first.
 
Do you mean grind the head smaller but with "edges again? Problem is I can't get to the recessed bolt heads without trashing the skip plate.

Maybe mine's setup differently but none of mine are recessed but yes, that's exactly what I meant.
 
You can use MAPP gas to do any heat cycling. I don't even bother using propane anymore. MAPP costs about the same but burns much hotter.
 
I have this same exact set, it saved my life trying to remove the nut on my thermostat, it was really ****ed up.

While I was in line buying the extractor set at Harbor Freight the guy next to me said "Hey, I have the Irwin set like those, but the Irwin set looks like they have more bite to them" I think that is true, I might give the Irwin set a shot too.
 
Both my 4Runners had at least one of those 3 front bolts ( the ones near the radiator) on the front skidplate broken off. Whenever I start to remove a bolt and I "feel" like it's going to break, I go get my MAPP gas and heat it up pretty good. I never found the need to get it super hot, just found that it comes out easier if you remove it right after you heat it up. Just make sure your not hitting any gas lines or anything that going to melt. Breaking bolts can really turn a smooth going repair into a nightmare.
 
While I was in line buying the extractor set at Harbor Freight the guy next to me said "Hey, I have the Irwin set like those, but the Irwin set looks like they have more bite to them" I think that is true, I might give the Irwin set a shot too.

Yea it's kinda weird since the nuts are 10 or 12mm but the irvin set doesn't have that nut, they have like 11 and 13 but they still work very great. I also bought another set of a different brand and it sucked ass.
 
This!

Irwin BOLT-GRIP 394001 - Bolt Extractor Set | O'Reilly Auto Parts

I just ran into this problem yesterday while trying to remove my lbjs. One of the mounting bolts was frozen solid and rounded. I Didnt want to use heat, it makes me nervous. I used PB Blaster and got this set of bolt extractors. Worked GREAT!

I just ordered these at Amazon. There was an Irwin $3.00 off promotion when I put it in my cart. So they cost $17.88 and I have free shipping with Prime. I didn't know I needed them but I do. In the reviews people have used them for the dif plugs.
 
Since the bolt head is recessed inside something, go to harbor freight, get a cheap socket of the right size, grab the old farmer special stick welder and stick it in through the hole for the wrench and give it a zap. Then stick your wrench on it and take it out. Friend across the street welds bigger nuts onto rounded out bolts all the time and the heat/etc from the welder breaks things loose in a hurry.
 
I'm having trouble getting the skid plate off my 2001 4 runner because of the same problem. It seems the two back bolts which are recessed in a narrow opening are rusted on, threaded, stripped, super glued on or all of the above! I don't have access to a torch so is the best recommendation the extractor set?
 
This is why nothing under my truck ever goes back on without antiseize.

I'm having trouble getting the skid plate off my 2001 4 runner because of the same problem. It seems the two back bolts which are recessed in a narrow opening are rusted on, threaded, stripped, super glued on or all of the above! I don't have access to a torch so is the best recommendation the extractor set?

Spend a few days with them soaking in PB Blast or Kroil, if you haven't yet. It's amazing how effective that stuff is when you give it time to work.
 

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